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- Aug 14, 2014
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- Madison, WI
- My Car
- 1971 Mach 1 w/408C stroker
I didn't find any posts related to this bearing so here it goes for posterity.......
As I was trying to better align all the pulleys I stumbled upon a "grinding" A/C idler pulley bearing. It was rotating without much effort but it was definitely not smooth. So I figured I should be able to replace it. Sorry that I didn't take pictures of the process but it is very straight forward. However, I followed this video from WCCC and his method worked flawlessly:
.
I purchased the Timken replacement bearing which is p/n Timken 6203-2RSC3 (17x40mm): https://www.amazon.com/6203-2RSC3-6...64-b9c2-01405a60db0e&pd_rd_i=B07SR3FZRC&psc=1
Basically I used a 2 5/8" socket that I had to press the pulley out of the bearing, which is the first step on the video. I got lucky I had this socket which worked perfectly. You can use sockets of similar sizes or another item larger than the 40mm of the bearing but that sits on the center of the pulley. Once the pulley is pushed down then I used a 3-finger extractor to remove the bearing. I painted and cleaned all the surfaces. I then used a 3/4" socket to press the new bearing in place, and finished with the 2 5/8" socket to press the pulley over the bearing. Before disassembly I measured the distance between the top face of the bearing and the idler arm with a caliper so I pressed the pulley to the same height.
As I was trying to better align all the pulleys I stumbled upon a "grinding" A/C idler pulley bearing. It was rotating without much effort but it was definitely not smooth. So I figured I should be able to replace it. Sorry that I didn't take pictures of the process but it is very straight forward. However, I followed this video from WCCC and his method worked flawlessly:
.
I purchased the Timken replacement bearing which is p/n Timken 6203-2RSC3 (17x40mm): https://www.amazon.com/6203-2RSC3-6...64-b9c2-01405a60db0e&pd_rd_i=B07SR3FZRC&psc=1
Basically I used a 2 5/8" socket that I had to press the pulley out of the bearing, which is the first step on the video. I got lucky I had this socket which worked perfectly. You can use sockets of similar sizes or another item larger than the 40mm of the bearing but that sits on the center of the pulley. Once the pulley is pushed down then I used a 3-finger extractor to remove the bearing. I painted and cleaned all the surfaces. I then used a 3/4" socket to press the new bearing in place, and finished with the 2 5/8" socket to press the pulley over the bearing. Before disassembly I measured the distance between the top face of the bearing and the idler arm with a caliper so I pressed the pulley to the same height.
