• 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
Yellow Mach 1 is back again!
#31
(02-06-2019, 10:02 AM)Hemikiller Wrote: 73 vacuum diagrams attached below

 A ton of good stuff there, interesting references.
 The diagram and pic was basic reference and to show what was or might be missing.

I learn something new every day!
  Reply
#32
[/quote]
  So with the new carb I could just use that lead for my electric choke and be done with it?
[/quote]

I would suggest not doing this. While it will work, there is always the warning with chokes not to use the coil wire as a source of energy. I'm pretty sure it is because of the reduced voltage in the factory wiring to the coil. The solenoid is on the same circuit, unless you can confirm 12 volts at that wire, I would not use it for the choke.

The multimeter is your friend

[Image: 1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png]

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!
  Reply
#33
So with the new carb I could just use that lead for my electric choke and be done with it?
[/quote]

I would suggest not doing this.  While it will work, there is always the warning with chokes not to use the coil wire as a source of energy.  I'm pretty sure it is because of the reduced voltage in the factory wiring to the coil.  The solenoid is on the same circuit, unless you can confirm 12 volts at that wire, I would not use it for the choke.  

The multimeter is your friend
[/quote]


Thanks for the heads up Jeff!!!

Got a few more issues with it now too!! More I tear it apart, more I find! The distributor is not working properly. The vacuum canister won’t advance the timing plate at all. Think diaphragm is bad. So I maybe looking into installing a duraspark dizzy and box. Luckily I already have a brand new set up. I keep for a spare for long road trip if my msd dies. Anyone know if I can run stock coil with duraspark??
Also pulled battery tray to find a nice big hole that I’m going to have to patch up!!  Seems like it’s never ending with this thing!!


[Image: 85-FC3467-8-F47-4-B51-8022-D6-C666-D1-C4-A0.jpg]

[Image: 13-BA01-CA-5-DE2-49-E1-9-AB0-520-BDB984858.jpg]

[Image: DC7425-AF-DBD2-4-AB8-B7-C0-16-CE275949-F8.jpg]

Kevin

1971 Mach 1
408C Stroker
C4 w/3,000 stall
8.8" Rear w/3.73's
Disc brakes all way around.

[Image: 28ivsix.png]




                                                                                             
  Reply
#34
What's the old saying, "The further I go ahead, the behinder I get" or words to that effect!
Damn leaking battery acid, eats everything.
 A boiled over battery was the reason I decided to pull the motor and redo the bay completely. Cause; a bad voltage regulator. Cure; a box of baking soda and hot water. Left a white film over everything, Horrible mess!
DuraSpark, good choice and what I'd definitely consider if my MotorCraft claps out again.
Geoff.

I learn something new every day!
  Reply
#35
You can use your stock coil if you keep it connected to the stock resistor wire from the ignition switch. DuraSpark, however, needs 12 volts, so you'll have to bypass the resistor wire and run a wire straight from the ignition switch to the DuraSpark module.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
  Reply
#36
I went with an Accel Super Coil (canister style) with my Duraspark set-up.  It puts out 30K volts vs. the stock 19K.  I hid the Duraspark box on the backside of the passenger shock tower, which is hidden very well - I kind of wish I would've mounted on the front side in plain view, though, since it looks more 'factory' than my Redneck Engineered fuse box.  I ran the Duraspark adapter harness I got from NPD along with the factor engine harness through some split loom, and everything looks pretty tidy as a result.  I think when I swap in the fuel injection, I'll move some things around for better aesthetics.

My thermal vacuum tower was broken as well, so I just fitted a nipple into the opening, clamped on a small length of heater hose, and capped it.  Can't even see it under the other hoses and alternator bracket.

Eric

[Image: mach1sig2.gif]
  Reply
#37
(02-07-2019, 08:45 PM)Mister 4x4 Wrote: I went with an Accel Super Coil (canister style) with my Duraspark set-up.  It puts out 30K volts vs. the stock 19K.  I hid the Duraspark box on the backside of the passenger shock tower, which is hidden very well - I kind of wish I would've mounted on the front side in plain view, though, since it looks more 'factory' than my Redneck Engineered fuse box.  I ran the Duraspark adapter harness I got from NPD along with the factor engine harness through some split loom, and everything looks pretty tidy as a result.  I think when I swap in the fuel injection, I'll move some things around for better aesthetics.

My thermal vacuum tower was broken as well, so I just fitted a nipple into the opening, clamped on a small length of heater hose, and capped it.  Can't even see it under the other hoses and alternator bracket.

Thanks for the input Eric. I was looking at mounting this box in the same place but there is what looks to be a vacuum canister mounted on the back side of passenger shock tower. See pic below. Anyone know what that is for? Just a canister to run the heater controls??  I assume that needs to be hooked up for the controls to work properly?? The small hose runs to the cowl and the bigger one looked like it went to the motor somewhere but it wasn't hooked up. There are 2 small hoses coming out of center of cowl. Looks like one goes to this canister and the other one goes to a valve on the heater hose.  Whats all this stuff do??  My car has never had any of this stuff...lol  I don't even have a heater box, heater hoses, no AC anymore, nothing.... bare minimum.  But we want to keep all the heater and ac controls working properly on this car. If I need to leave that canister in place , I will probably end up mounting the box on the backside of the driver side shock tower.


[Image: 62081-D07-AE55-44-D0-B4-B5-FF9-A795-F6202.jpg]

Kevin

1971 Mach 1
408C Stroker
C4 w/3,000 stall
8.8" Rear w/3.73's
Disc brakes all way around.

[Image: 28ivsix.png]




                                                                                             
  Reply
#38
That's the vacuum reservoir for the A/C system. It provides a stable source of vacuum for the system, otherwise the doors will constantly open and close as vacuum rises and falls while driving.

Small nipple is for black hose coming from the cowl, the other to a 1/4" hose to the vacuum tree on the back of the intake for full manifold vacuum. The hoses from the cowl are color coded, see the attached vacuum diagram. The purple cowl hose goes to the valve in the heater hose, to shut off the hot water supply when the temp selector is in the "cold" range.


Attached Files
.pdf   71 mustang vacuum.pdf (Size: 335.23 KB / Downloads: 3)


  Reply
#39
(02-08-2019, 08:40 AM)Hemikiller Wrote: That's the vacuum reservoir for the A/C system. It provides a stable source of vacuum for the system, otherwise the doors will constantly open and close as vacuum rises and falls while driving.

Small nipple is for black hose coming from the cowl, the other to a 1/4" hose to the vacuum tree on the back of the intake for full manifold vacuum. The hoses from the cowl are color coded, see the attached vacuum diagram. The purple cowl hose goes to the valve in the heater hose, to shut off the hot water supply when the temp selector is in the "cold" range.

Awesome thanks for the info!!!

Kevin

1971 Mach 1
408C Stroker
C4 w/3,000 stall
8.8" Rear w/3.73's
Disc brakes all way around.

[Image: 28ivsix.png]




                                                                                             
  Reply
#40
Great info!

Mine was also non-A/C car, so the backside of my passenger shock tower was empty.

Too bad there's not enough budget to swap-in a Classic Auto Air set-up - it's all electric, no need for the extra vacuum (or underhood clutter).  Not to mention, the HVAC unit is smaller than the factory heater itself (minus A/C).  The controls also utilize adapters to allow the factory cable controls to work with the control module.

But, it ain't cheap.

Eric

[Image: mach1sig2.gif]
  Reply
Share Thread:  


Possibly Related Threads…
Thread Author Replies Views Last Post
  71 Euro Shelby (Mach 1) Clone whelessray 8 436 Yesterday, 11:50 PM
Last Post: whelessray
  MuscleTang mod project thread (1971 M-Mach 1) tony-muscle 278 29,158 06-12-2019, 09:39 PM
Last Post: tony-muscle
  Summer deadline - 72 Mach 1 Build thread baz70 105 3,288 06-09-2019, 06:30 PM
Last Post: baz70
  72 mach 1 Grandmas original first car libram 25 2,835 05-30-2019, 03:39 AM
Last Post: libram
  Have started the long job of cleaning the 73 Mach 1 Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs 120 5,438 04-15-2019, 08:52 PM
Last Post: mjseakan
  Video of 73 Mach 1 going into MOM Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs 13 521 04-15-2019, 09:55 AM
Last Post: Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs
runninpony 71, 302, spring special replica "yellow pony" blog LogZz 26 1,435 03-15-2019, 03:18 AM
Last Post: LogZz
  Justin's 1973 Mach 1 "Q" Code wrobinson 45 5,369 02-22-2019, 03:12 PM
Last Post: wrobinson



Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)