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Yellow Mach 1 is back again!
#21
(02-05-2019, 09:36 AM)jpaz Wrote:
(02-05-2019, 09:14 AM)Stanglover Wrote: Ok why did my text show up blue after I uploaded the picture?? Cant' seem to figure that one out.

Ya that was weird, it just changed. Thought maybe you were trying to match your engine color? lol.

 No not really. It just happened after I uploaded the pic using "Add Image to post". Actually what I did was this, the pic loaded in the wrong location, so I cut and pasted it where it should be, that's when the blue script showed up. Not only that, it changes color when I hover the mouse pointer over it. Now that is weird!

I learn something new every day!
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#22
(02-05-2019, 09:59 AM)turtle5353 Wrote: Thanks for the input guys. But now I have 2 different answers on the throttle solenoid.  And to be honest when I searched the site for answers I found the exact same answers on the forum.  Some say its just an anit-diesel solenoid, others say its AC  controlled.

Stanglover,
I painted this car about 2 years ago.  The driver side quarter was replaced at that time.  The owner did not want  to do the under hood stuff because of time and money.  He wanted to drive it. So we have been doing little things as time and money permit. A little each winter, so he can drive it in summer. I totally understand pulling the motor is easy, and have done my own more times than I want to count, but he did not want to go that route at this time.  Just wants it detailed up nice and if he decides to rebuild motor in next couple years, we will do the engine bay properly then.  By the way your engine bay is awesome!! Very nice job! So is Jpaz's!!  I will definitely be looking at these as reference for a few things.  
Also what color are the shock tower caps?? They don't seem to be slop gray like the braces??

 Please understand I do understand. The customer is paying what he can afford when he can afford it. His car, his way.
Driver side quarter replaced, no problem there then. I did not know that when I mentioned checking.
Thanks for the comment on my engine bay. The shock tower caps on mine are just glass bead blasted and clear coated so are the hood hinges, but I believe should be phosphate, but not too dark. They were not painted. Items in slop grey are; shock tower braces, hood latch bracket, grill center bracket, head light support outer brackets. I think that's all. I can post pics if needed of mine.
Geoff.

I learn something new every day!
  Reply
#23
(02-05-2019, 01:07 PM)Stanglover Wrote:
(02-05-2019, 09:59 AM)turtle5353 Wrote: Thanks for the input guys. But now I have 2 different answers on the throttle solenoid.  And to be honest when I searched the site for answers I found the exact same answers on the forum.  Some say its just an anit-diesel solenoid, others say its AC  controlled.

Stanglover,
I painted this car about 2 years ago.  The driver side quarter was replaced at that time.  The owner did not want  to do the under hood stuff because of time and money.  He wanted to drive it. So we have been doing little things as time and money permit. A little each winter, so he can drive it in summer. I totally understand pulling the motor is easy, and have done my own more times than I want to count, but he did not want to go that route at this time.  Just wants it detailed up nice and if he decides to rebuild motor in next couple years, we will do the engine bay properly then.  By the way your engine bay is awesome!! Very nice job! So is Jpaz's!!  I will definitely be looking at these as reference for a few things.  
Also what color are the shock tower caps?? They don't seem to be slop gray like the braces??

 Please understand I do understand. The customer is paying what he can afford when he can afford it. His car, his way.
Driver side quarter replaced, no problem there then. I did not know that when I mentioned checking.
Thanks for the comment on my engine bay. The shock tower caps on mine are just glass bead blasted and clear coated so are the hood hinges, but I believe should be phosphate, but not too dark. They were not painted. Items in slop grey are; shock tower braces, hood latch bracket, grill center bracket, head light support outer brackets. I think that's all. I can post pics if needed of mine.
Geoff.
Thanks! I used cast blast with a top coat of semi-transparent frost for my shock tower caps, a/c bracket and the coil bracket.The frost helped to give it a bit of the phosphate look. Not perfect but not bad either. You can get a lot of the under hood paint info from the 429 mega site. You can do a lot of detailing without pulling the engine.

run_horse Run Horse Run!
John 72 Q Code
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#24
My 71 had a similar solenoid that activates only when I turned the A/C on to raise idle.
As a disclaimer, i dont know the whole history of my car. It came out of the factory without air but all the components are from a factory air car. Most likely added later from a donor car. That said I can't say with certainty if the solenoid in my car is factory for a 1971 A/C car.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

        [Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
4-wheel disc brakes
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#25
I got some more stuff tore off the car last night. And have another question. This car has the dual diaphragm distributor. The front vacuum line goes to the carb. Where does the top one go?? It looks like it was cut and was just hanging there. Doesn’t reach any ports.  But there is a nipple with a plug in it on the manifold. Any thoughts??
[Image: 3-D208614-D347-4-A57-9-FB3-D2-F6-AA46-D60-B.jpg]

[Image: 30074-D8-F-EED5-4764-86-A9-FE9652080154.jpg]

Kevin

1971 Mach 1
408C Stroker
C4 w/3,000 stall
8.8" Rear w/3.73's
Disc brakes all way around.

[Image: 28ivsix.png]




                                                                                             
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#26
Here is a poor sketch of the dual vacuum line routing. You could Google this as there may be a better drawing.
Basically, the rear hose is for the vacuum timing retard. It goes to the thermal vacuum switch that appears to be missing, circled in red, then via a T goes to the manifold nipple. It was intended to retard the timing when the engine got hot like in traffic, to cool the motor down. You don't really need it especially if the timing has been modified.
Here are a couple of pics. Hope that helps.
Geoff.


[Image: DSC00347-LI.jpg]


Attached Files
.pdf   vacuum tubes.pdf (Size: 330.4 KB / Downloads: 7)

I learn something new every day!
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#27
73 vacuum diagrams attached below


Attached Files
.pdf   1973_ServiceManual_Vol6_EngineEmissions_Mustang.pdf (Size: 6.58 MB / Downloads: 10)


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#28
(02-06-2019, 09:13 AM)Stanglover Wrote: Here is a poor sketch of the dual vacuum line routing. You could Google this as there may be a better drawing.
Basically, the rear hose is for the vacuum timing retard. It goes to the thermal vacuum switch that appears to be missing, circled in red, then via a T goes to the manifold nipple. It was intended to retard the timing when the engine got hot like in traffic, to cool the motor down. You don't really need it especially if the timing has been modified.
Here are a couple of pics. Hope that helps.
Geoff.


[Image: DSC00347-LI.jpg]


Thanks!  Yep it looks like that is missing and someone just put a pipe plug in the hole.  Well looks like its not going back on!

Kevin

1971 Mach 1
408C Stroker
C4 w/3,000 stall
8.8" Rear w/3.73's
Disc brakes all way around.

[Image: 28ivsix.png]




                                                                                             
  Reply
#29
(02-06-2019, 10:09 AM)turtle5353 Wrote:
(02-06-2019, 09:13 AM)Stanglover Wrote: Here is a poor sketch of the dual vacuum line routing. You could Google this as there may be a better drawing.
Basically, the rear hose is for the vacuum timing retard. It goes to the thermal vacuum switch that appears to be missing, circled in red, then via a T goes to the manifold nipple. It was intended to retard the timing when the engine got hot like in traffic, to cool the motor down. You don't really need it especially if the timing has been modified.
Here are a couple of pics. Hope that helps.
Geoff.


[Image: DSC00347-LI.jpg]


Thanks!  Yep it looks like that is missing and someone just put a pipe plug in the hole.  Well looks like its not going back on!

 I actually used that location for a temp sensor when I installed gauges as well as retaining the idiot lights.
 Have fun with it all.
 Geoff.

I learn something new every day!
  Reply
#30
(02-06-2019, 10:39 AM)Stanglover Wrote:
(02-06-2019, 10:09 AM)turtle5353 Wrote:
(02-06-2019, 09:13 AM)Stanglover Wrote: Here is a poor sketch of the dual vacuum line routing. You could Google this as there may be a better drawing.
Basically, the rear hose is for the vacuum timing retard. It goes to the thermal vacuum switch that appears to be missing, circled in red, then via a T goes to the manifold nipple. It was intended to retard the timing when the engine got hot like in traffic, to cool the motor down. You don't really need it especially if the timing has been modified.
Here are a couple of pics. Hope that helps.
Geoff.


[Image: DSC00347-LI.jpg]


Thanks!  Yep it looks like that is missing and someone just put a pipe plug in the hole.  Well looks like its not going back on!

 I actually used that location for a temp sensor when I installed gauges as well as retaining the idiot lights.
 Have fun with it all.
 Geoff.

+1 did the exact same thing.

'73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

'73 F code convertible. Bright red. Needs total restore. (IE HOT MESS)

- Jason
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