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Yellow Mach 1 is back again!
#1
Well guys, I got some more work to do on the yellow Mach 1 that I painted a couple years ago.  Unfortunately we found 2 small bubbles in the paint. one on the passenger rear quarter panel and one on the driver side A-pillar. It sucks but im going to take care of it for him. Once I ground down the bubble on the quarter panel I found a couple small brown spots in the bare metal. So I poke them with a screw driver and it went right through in a couple spots. Metal was thin in that area and must of came through. When I sanded the car down to bare metal a couple years ago, those spots were not there. O well we missed one. So I cut out the bad spot, welded new metal in, bodyworked it, primed it, let it set a week, blocked it down, and primed it again. I didn't find anything under the tiny bubble by A-pillar, might have been something in my gun. But those areas are primed and letting them set for few weeks while I do some other work on the car.

I am starting the process of cleaning up the engine bay and painting all the brackets and tidying up everything under the hood. He didn't want to pull the motor  just yet, so we are going to work around it and do what we can with it.  I ordered a bunch of parts for it and will be installing a new 4 barrel carb and intake, along with a set of long tube ceramic headers. Should wake this car up quite a bit from the 2 barrel and single exhaust. 

I will keep you guys posted on the progress. And I already have a couple of questions! First, this car has working AC. I see that it has a throttle solenoid, that I assume is activated when the AC is turned on to bump up the idle rpm. Is this correct?? And if it is correct, then im going to have to make a new bracket for it to mount to the quick fuel carb. Or is it not that important and can be run without?? Thoughts??

Also looking for who makes a slop gray spray paint for some of the underhood pieces that need sprayed slop gray?? Any suggestions or just find a regular gray and run with it??

Kevin

1971 Mach 1
408C Stroker
C4 w/3,000 stall
8.8" Rear w/3.73's
Disc brakes all way around.

[Image: 28ivsix.png]




                                                                                             
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#2
Pics so far. 
Bubble. 
[Image: 4597-B127-6314-4-F2-D-BDBE-3-CF28190-BF71.jpg]

[Image: C7-BAB1-B3-0-D0-D-46-A0-8-D26-A9661-CE9-F51-E.jpg]




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[Image: DBE1-FA52-2363-4-EB5-863-A-927-E086-BA26-C.jpg]

[Image: AE0-A2-DF3-7870-4-C93-90-FC-1669-BB91-D913.jpg]

[Image: BE0-EB147-5598-4-DD6-B326-9586-A6-C79964.jpg]


New parts


[Image: 253456-A8-B222-4465-8-FE6-677434135-DF7.jpg]

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[Image: 742-EAFDA-4777-48-F8-A53-C-6420366-A7004.jpg]


Engine bay now.  


[Image: 35-DAE77-B-8764-40-C4-BD59-DCAF1-A2-C4111.jpg]

[Image: E906-F711-FF17-4-B07-A120-BA203-F32-ECA3.jpg]

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[Image: E2-C6-F9-D6-51-A9-45-CB-A896-BF494-DB39-C6-A.jpg]

[Image: 5-F5436-D4-570-C-4-FEC-95-F4-65-B76-B4-F6-C89.jpg]

Kevin

1971 Mach 1
408C Stroker
C4 w/3,000 stall
8.8" Rear w/3.73's
Disc brakes all way around.

[Image: 28ivsix.png]




                                                                                             
[+] 1 user Likes turtle5353's post
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#3
The solenoid is not for the AC. It is an anti diesel solenoid. It activates when the car is on to open the throttle plates up slightly. When you turn the car off it allows it to close off completely. It is not part of the AC.

'73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

'73 F code convertible. Bright red. Needs total restore. (IE HOT MESS)

- Jason
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#4
[/url]

Perhaps I can offer some input. First, the slop grey I used is sold by NPD. It is NOT 'battle ship grey'!! You could mix your own, but a couple of cans is enough.
The rust out spots you show are typical areas from what I've seen. If it were me, I'd be checking the other side as well. I don't want to come across as some sort of body and paint expert, I'm not, that's just the way I think.
I do have to be honest though. I can never understand why people spend big dollars to make the outside look amazing, but leave the engine bay looking like crap. Again maybe my anal thinking, but why? It is not hard to pull the motor. With the right equipment and some good help, it's a couple of hours work. As the owner is planning on a few major upgrades, then surely that is the ideal opportunity to do it right, paint the motor in the correct Dark Corporate Blue and detail everything else as it should be. I used Duplicolor rattle cans or Eastwood sell a supposedly exact match to gun spray it. I chose rattle cans for easier touch up. For the under hood black I recommend Eastwood 2k Ceramic paint. You'll need 2 cans, but that was only just enough. It's expensive but has stood up very well so far and still looks great.
My Dad always told me "A job worth doing, is worth doing right"
Geoff.

[url=https://ibb.co/gJvhYVQ][Image: IMG-0657.jpg]

I learn something new every day!
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#5
Sure is nice to see that you stand behind your work. Great of you to fix those problems!

Yes that’s the solenoid for the a/c and it bumps the idle up when a/c is turned on. I wound up using that wire for my electric choke as my a/c isn’t functioning at the moment. So I can’t answer your question about still having to use it.

I used slop grey from NPD, actually they call it panel grey. I’m sure you could just make or use any dark gray as there was no exact formula for it. And some cars actually got a really dark color that looks like it could be black. Here’s a pic of the slop grey I used from NPD.
       

run_horse Run Horse Run!
John 72 Q Code
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#6
Ok why did my text show up blue after I uploaded the picture?? Cant' seem to figure that one out.

I learn something new every day!
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#7
(02-05-2019, 09:14 AM)Stanglover Wrote: Ok why did my text show up blue after I uploaded the picture?? Cant' seem to figure that one out.

Ya that was weird, it just changed. Thought maybe you were trying to match your engine color? lol.

run_horse Run Horse Run!
John 72 Q Code
  Reply
#8
Thanks for the input guys. But now I have 2 different answers on the throttle solenoid. And to be honest when I searched the site for answers I found the exact same answers on the forum. Some say its just an anit-diesel solenoid, others say its AC controlled.

Stanglover,
I painted this car about 2 years ago. The driver side quarter was replaced at that time. The owner did not want to do the under hood stuff because of time and money. He wanted to drive it. So we have been doing little things as time and money permit. A little each winter, so he can drive it in summer. I totally understand pulling the motor is easy, and have done my own more times than I want to count, but he did not want to go that route at this time. Just wants it detailed up nice and if he decides to rebuild motor in next couple years, we will do the engine bay properly then. By the way your engine bay is awesome!! Very nice job! So is Jpaz's!! I will definitely be looking at these as reference for a few things.
Also what color are the shock tower caps?? They don't seem to be slop gray like the braces??

Kevin

1971 Mach 1
408C Stroker
C4 w/3,000 stall
8.8" Rear w/3.73's
Disc brakes all way around.

[Image: 28ivsix.png]




                                                                                             
  Reply
#9
It is the anti-diesel solenoid. Pull the air cleaner assembly off when car is off. You will notice it is not activated. Start the car with the A/C off and the solenoid will activate if it still works. Cycle the AC on off and you will notice no change in the solenoid. This is why the lead works well to use for the electric choke. If it was AC related the elec choke would only work when the AC is on.

'73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

'73 F code convertible. Bright red. Needs total restore. (IE HOT MESS)

- Jason
  Reply
#10
(02-05-2019, 10:13 AM)73pony Wrote: It is the anti-diesel solenoid. Pull the air cleaner assembly off when car is off. You will notice it is not activated. Start the car with the A/C off and the solenoid will activate if it still works. Cycle the AC on off and you will notice no change in the solenoid. This is why the lead works well to use for the electric choke. If it was AC related the elec choke would only work when the AC is on.

Ok thanks for the explanation.  So with the new carb I could just use that lead for my electric choke and be done with it?

Kevin

1971 Mach 1
408C Stroker
C4 w/3,000 stall
8.8" Rear w/3.73's
Disc brakes all way around.

[Image: 28ivsix.png]




                                                                                             
  Reply
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