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Wood grain replacement?
#1
My center guage panel wood grain is all messed up.  I would like to keep it but in its present condition it is too bad to reuse.

Do they make replacement woodgrain?
Is it hard to install correctly?
How do you remove the old stuff?

Thanks!
Wade
1972 Mach 1 351 cj 4speed
"We confide in our strength, without boasting of it; we respect that of others, without fearing it."--Thomas Jefferson

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#2
They do make repo for the wood grain for the center dash. I would use a heat gun to warm up the old and see if it releases. The plastic is ABS so you can use lacquer thinner to clean it. Do a spot check to make sure I have based this on cleaning consoles with thinner. We are close to NPD so check with them in Charlotte. I know they have the whole panel with wood grain for $216.58 so they should also have the wood grain insert.
You will probably want to repaint the panel also. The chrome is usually bad on them and I have found nothing that makes it look right. I cut narrow tape to put over the chrome when painting.
When you put new on you will test fit with the protective paper still on. When it looks like a fit then start at the bottom and work your way up. Put masking tape at the top to hold the decal in place and have extra hands. I do not know if the soapy water water trick works with this type adhesive. I would ask NPD about instructions also. Extra hands always help.


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
[+] 1 user Likes Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs's post
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#3
(09-12-2018, 09:00 AM)Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs Wrote: They do make repo for the wood grain for the center dash. I would use a heat gun to warm up the old and see if it releases. The plastic is ABS so you can use lacquer thinner to clean it. Do a spot check to make sure I have based this on cleaning consoles with thinner. We are close to NPD so check with them in Charlotte. I know they have the whole panel with wood grain for $216.58 so they should also have the wood grain insert.
You will probably want to repaint the panel also. The chrome is usually bad on them and I have found nothing that makes it look right. I cut narrow tape to put over the chrome when painting.
When you put new on you will test fit with the protective paper still on. When it looks like a fit then start at the bottom and work your way up. Put masking tape at the top to hold the decal in place and have extra hands. I do not know if the soapy water water trick works with this type adhesive. I would ask NPD about instructions also. Extra hands always help.

They do have the woodgrain insert - for a panel w/o gauges.  They do not have the one for gauges.

I'm trying to locate a template to make my own woodgrain, but even those don't seem to exist.  I don't like the color of the woodgrain on their panel so am going to make my own.
Heat gun doesn't help with the adhesive, but the old woodgrain comes off pretty easily.  You do have to use lacquer thinner to remove any of the adhesive left behind.  Then a good sanding on the panel so paint will adhere and paint the whole panel before trying to stick anything to it.

1969 Acapulco Blue Convertible
     408 Cleveland, 5 Spd
1973 Pewter Mach 1
     Being restored - 351 2V, Auto
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#4
I feel horrible.  The woodgrain vinyl on the reproduction center dash trim piece I ordered (with gauges) wasn't actually stuck on all that well (sorry, Don), but I didn't care since I was going to peel it off anyway - I'm not a fan of the woodgrain, myself... so I went with 3M Di-Noc black carbon fiber vinyl.  Love it a LOT better.

Anyway, David's got the right idea about test-fitting with the protective sheet still on, but go one step further and use a piece of butcher paper or similar to make the template, then transfer it onto a piece of poster board/card stock.  Cut out the card stock template and trace onto the piece of woodgrain vinyl, cut to match, then it should slip right on without hassle.

As for prepping the piece, try not to get any paint on the areas where the vinyl will be installed - the adhesive on the vinyl will stick to the paint, but if the paint doesn't get good adhesion to the plastic, then your vinyl will come right up and take the paint with it.  Also make sure the area where the vinyl is to be installed is absolutely butter smooth and hospital clean - any imperfections or objects stuck to the plastic will show through the vinyl as a tiny bump.

The best way to install the vinyl would be to get some sticker application gel, apply some to the clean and dry trim piece, peel off the protective sheet, apply a small amount to the adhesive side of the vinyl, then place the vinyl onto the piece.  The gel will help you make small adjustments - sliding it around, rotating, etc. - and once it's properly positioned, use a credit card to 'squeegee' out the application gel, effectively taking any potential for air bubbles with it.  The rest of the application gel will evaporate, and any residue is easily wiped away with water and mild glass cleaner.  This technique works for any kind of vinyl being installed on pretty much any kind of smooth surface - that's how the exterior decals (such as the hockey stripes, Mach 1 emblems, et al) are applied.

Eric

[Image: mach1sig2.gif]
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#5
Real wood veneer. I gave up on the aftermarket vinyl. It dries out (shrinks and edges roll up), and just looks cheap. But I'm no expert.
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