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(wood) construction advice
#1
Hi folks,

In my garage I'm building a wooden floor which sits on top of 4 metal poles on each side (8 total). The metal poles have flat pieces of metal (8mm thick) welded on the end measuring 8x20cm. Initially I was planning of using one length of 720cm long wooden beam to cover the whole length but it's hard and expensive to come by such a piece so I'm now thinking of using 2 beams to go along each side.

Should I use 2x360 cm and have the split in between 2 poles (leaving 2 ends unsupported) or should I use sizes that make the split sit on top of a pole thus having the ends of all beams supported. The latter solution lets the beam end sit on 10cm of the flat metal plate.

What would you do?

Thanks,
Vincent.
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#2
[Image: beams.jpg]

you mean this?
where most front is your alternative vs what you wanted on the back?

73 modified Grandé 351C. Almost done. 
71 429CJ. In progress
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#3
That is exactly what I mean!
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#4
The joint for the board [ connections ] should be centered over the post
You would use 3 sections of wood for each side
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#5
yeah 3 sections connected with light plate 1/2 on support, vs a bigger connection in the middle would also be not only cheaper but stronger.
keep in mind, you're gonna have transversal beams every 30 cms, and prolly a car weight (even plastic corvettes are heavy Smile )

which brings me to next question: you mentioned have a car there, how do you plan to lift it to this first floor?

73 modified Grandé 351C. Almost done. 
71 429CJ. In progress
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#6
you may want to use connecting plates @ the breaks you never want to make a break without support
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#7
You would need to do either one piece or piece them together so the joint is centered on the platform. Also the use of connecting plates as mentioned above would be my recommendation as well. Couple questions you need to answer so accurate information can be given.

What size beams are you using?
What material is the beam? IE Laminated beam, dimensional lumber (would also need to know wood species)
How much weight are you planning on storing up there?
Are there any local building codes in effect in the area as far as storage lofts go? If so what are the load carrying and max deflection requirements?
Once the beams are in place how are you planning on attaching the joists to the beams? Joist hangers?
What is the clear span between the two beams?

Let me know and I can calculate out what size lumber, species, and joist spacing you would need. Local codes here for storage lofts are pretty strict. For the one in my shop which the joists will only span 10' I had to run 2x12 Douglas Fir (Northern #1) 12" on center to meet code. Got real expensive real quick.

'73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, 750 CFM double pumper, Holley Street Dominator intake.

'73 F code convertible. Bright red. Needs total restore. (IE HOT MESS)

- Jason
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#8
Vinnie
Maybe a picture tells more than words. Imagine the lower beam as ome of your posts.

[Image: einfacher_blattsto_zimmermannsmaessige_h...24x402.png]


Cheers Frank
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#9
(01-10-2018, 04:08 PM)Vicus Wrote: Vinnie
Maybe a picture tells more than words. Imagine the lower beam as ome of your posts.

[Image: einfacher_blattsto_zimmermannsmaessige_h...24x402.png]


Cheers Frank

In your photo you show using a square beam assuming either 4x4 or 6x6 post type material. This would not be sufficient as the shear strength of a 4x4 or 6x6 is far lass than that of say a 2x8, 2x10 etc. Additionally removing 1/2 of the material of the post is a no no as the greatly reduces the strength at the load points.

'73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, 750 CFM double pumper, Holley Street Dominator intake.

'73 F code convertible. Bright red. Needs total restore. (IE HOT MESS)

- Jason
  Reply
#10
I agree with Jason, I was just getting ready to respond when I saw his post. The top girders would be seriously weakened at the point of maximum shear. The girder/joist on the right will likely split along the length of it along the wood grain.

The preferred splice/connector is metal. I'll see if I can find a picture and post it.

EDIT: I believe this type of connector/splice will suit your need much better:
https://www.strongtie.com/boltedcolumnca...c.ecc.eccu



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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