• 1 Vote(s) - 5 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
won't start, no power at all (battery is good)
#11
(07-08-2019, 05:22 AM)n_reckless Wrote:
(07-07-2019, 09:39 PM)Don C Wrote: Yes, they would.  Your problem is with the battery connectors, battery ground, or main power connections. Does your ground cable run to both the chassis (bottom screw on the voltage regulator) and engine block?
 Yes. One from the battery but nothing on the regulator. If I want to make a ground where should I connect the another end? One to the regulator and one...?
If it would be a ground problem could it happen in just 30 sec./1 min? I mean I just went home stopped the car then after around a minute I couldn't restart it and no power at all, no lights etc. 

I tried after a couple of hours and I can hear a click from the solenoid. If I try again immediately nothing. If I have a click the fuel gauge goes up to show the current level in the ON position of the key but still no lights.  When I try again and no click I clearly have no power the fuel level won't go up.

[Image: IMG-20190708-063008.jpg]
You trying and getting a click after a couple of hours ... Have you tried another battery - it may be a plate is warping in that battery
  Reply
#12
Turn your headlights on and then measure battery voltage on the terminals, and if good there place the test probes on the battery connectors and measure the voltage there.

A battery can test good, when using a voltmeter, but when a load is placed on it the voltage will drop significantly if the battery has one or more bad cells or corroded connectors.

If the battery tests good at the connectors leave the negative test probe on the negative terminal, and with the headlights on test the positive cable at the solenoid connector. If still good there move the negative probe to the bare metal on the voltage regulator and the positive test probe on the solenoid connector. Keep moving the positive probe further away along the positive wiring until you no longer get a good voltage reading. That will identify the location of a bad connection.

Yes, the battery can go bad in a 30 minute drive and corroded connections and bad battery cables can fail during a drive.

Have you removed the battery cable connectors from the battery terminals and cleaned the battery posts and the inside of the connectors with a wire brush? Battery terminal brushes are made for this.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
[+] 1 user Likes Don C's post
  Reply
#13
(07-08-2019, 08:25 AM)Don C Wrote: Turn your headlights on and then measure battery voltage on the terminals, and if good there place the test probes on the battery connectors and measure the voltage there.

A battery can test good, when using a voltmeter, but when a load is placed on it the voltage will drop significantly if the battery has one or more bad cells or corroded connectors.

If the battery tests good at the connectors leave the negative test probe on the negative terminal, and with the headlights on test the positive cable at the solenoid connector. If still good there move the negative probe to the bare metal on the voltage regulator and the positive test probe on the solenoid connector. Keep moving the positive probe further away along the positive wiring until you no longer get a good voltage reading. That will identify the location of a bad connection.

Yes, the battery can go bad in a 30 minute drive and corroded connections and bad battery cables can fail during a drive.

Have you removed the battery cable connectors from the battery terminals and cleaned the battery posts and the inside of the connectors with a wire brush? Battery terminal brushes are made for this.
I haven't cleaned it just replaced the negative post. When I took the battery to a local Autozone they tested and the voltage is good. BUT has a bad cell. Can it cause to whole no power issue? If yes what about the failed jump. starts? We couldn't jump it with another car, no lights etc with the jump. cable on.
  Reply
#14
You will need to replace the battery before you can troubleshoot further. A battery with a shorted cell may not respond to a jump.

Do you mean you replaced the negative battery cable? You cannot replace a battery post. Did you wire brush the battery post before putting the new cable on? Did you wire brush the inside of the cable connector? Even new one can have oxidation, or protective coatings from the factory

There's a good chance you have a combination of problems, bad cell, bad grounds, bad connection at the positive battery terminal, etc.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
  Reply
#15
Sorry I replaced the terminal actually.
  Reply
#16
Just the terminal on the old negative cable? Then the negative cable connections to chassis and engine are probably dirty/corroded. The factory ground runs from the battery to the bottom screw on the voltage regulator and then to a bolt on the engine block.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
  Reply
#17
(07-08-2019, 12:03 PM)Don C Wrote: Just the terminal on the old negative cable? Then the negative cable connections to chassis and engine are probably dirty/corroded. The factory ground runs from the battery to the bottom screw on the voltage regulator and then to a bolt on the engine block.
I cannot check it now but if I'm not mistaken I have two negative wire from the battery. One to the block and the another also to the block at the top under my coil.
  Reply
#18
(07-08-2019, 02:05 PM)n_reckless Wrote:
(07-08-2019, 12:03 PM)Don C Wrote: Just the terminal on the old negative cable? Then the negative cable connections to chassis and engine are probably dirty/corroded. The factory ground runs from the battery to the bottom screw on the voltage regulator and then to a bolt on the engine block.
I cannot check it now but if I'm not mistaken I have two negative wire from the battery. One to the block and the another also to the block at the top under my coil.

You need one that connects the battery (-) to the body of the vehicle itself. Ford only provided one of those, it was on the original battery Ground cable and gets screwed to the apron with the voltage regulator. Not Ford's best moment in electrical design. 

IMO, replace the battery and clean and check all battery cable connections. If you don't have a direct ground path from Battery to Chassis, add one. Anything you do before that is chasing your tail.

 [Image: batterycables.jpg]


  Reply
#19
I already thought about upgrading the battery cables even before this issue. So I'd only need this cable set or should I add another extra ground cable to the chassis? If this set is enough the small clip with the red arrow goes under the voltage regulator and the end if the cable goes to the block replacing the existing old ground. Is it correct?
  Reply
#20
That is correct. Although not used originally, many members, including me, run an additional ground from the back of the engine to the firewall/cowl area.

When you go to the parts store make sure you get a battery terminal brush and battery terminal protectant. Even new terminals and posts should be cleaned prior to installing. You can get the felt pads that goes under the connectors or spray on protection that helps prevent corrosion.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
  Reply
Share Thread:  


Possibly Related Threads…
Thread Author Replies Views Last Post
  Power for aftermarket stereo 73429mach 2 123 07-07-2019, 08:43 PM
Last Post: LeglessOne
  Power Window Conversion or Replacement kit rackerm 3 225 06-26-2019, 01:14 PM
Last Post: Mister 4x4
  Ignition buzzer won’t stop bizzing Rmach1 4 241 06-07-2019, 11:18 AM
Last Post: Rmach1
  Battery orientation?? turtle5353 11 513 03-01-2019, 08:00 PM
Last Post: midlife
  Keyed 12V Power JimB73 11 474 02-13-2019, 01:50 PM
Last Post: JimB73
  New Gauges won't allow car to start 73Grande/Mach1 6 1,145 12-27-2018, 12:28 PM
Last Post: B229218
  power antenna wiring rjpohl 1 314 11-21-2018, 07:37 PM
Last Post: Don C
  Group 24F battery tray Danno 10 909 11-06-2018, 11:46 AM
Last Post: Danno



Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)