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won't start, no power at all (battery is good)
#1
Yesterday morning I took the car for a ride. It fired up without any issues. When I went home I turned it off but had to use my other parking lot so after a min. I wanted to start he car and nothing. No click from the solenoid, no headlights. We were unable to jump start the car. I checked the battery and it's ok. The grounds from the - post are ok too. Is there anything I can check at home without towing it to my mechanic?
Could the solenoid be wrong if it's no power at all? When the key is on position still no headlights, wipers. If the alternator would be bad the battery supposed to be discharged right?
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#2
Had pretty much the same issue with a 69 Mach 1 a few years back, no power to anything after driving it home and parking it to change spark plugs. Turned out to be the yellow wire fusible link under/near the drivers side in the engine compartment. It had been poorly spliced together by the PO, and had simple just came apart. Maybe my arm caught it when changing the plugs on that side but honestly, it took me a few days of looking around and then a buddy asked what that disconnected wire was for. Re-spliced it and all was good. Good luck.

Tom
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#3
+1 on being the fusible link. On our cars it's connected to either the battery side of the starter solenoid or to the terminal block (on cars with factory gauges) near the voltage regulator.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#4
(07-07-2019, 12:45 PM)Don C Wrote: +1 on being the fusible link. On our cars it's connected to either the battery side of the starter solenoid or to the terminal block (on cars with factory gauges) near the voltage regulator.
Yes it's on the battery side and the wire is going toward the headlights. Should I open the harness to see what's going on with it. Just search for burning or splices?
***Update*** The fusible link is looking good. Not burned or spliced.

I forgot something that I don't know if wort to mention or affect this issue. I'm using an electronic distributor and installed a relay. I hooked up the ignition from the relay to the I terminal of the solenoid so the original ignition wire is not in use.
If the solenoid is bad should I have accessories or headlights with the key is ON position since I'm not using the original ignition wire?
Or in this case when the ignition is hooked up to the solenoid is it possible that only the solenoid is bad?
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#5
I had much the same thing -- turned out to be real bad corrosion on negative terminal of battery -- even though everything read good across the battery itself - the terminal wasn't good enough to pass current.

[Image: siggy.jpg]

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#6
Check out the neutral safety switch. I have had the same thing with it being out of adjustment. I was always able to start the car by making sure that the shifter is pushed all the way forward. I would just pull it back and push forward into park and it would start. It finally got to far out of adjustment so I reset it and have never had a problem since. I must have not had it tight enough to begin with.
Hopefully it’s something this simple, good luck!

run_horse Run Horse Run!
John 72 Q Code
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#7
(07-07-2019, 09:16 PM)jpaz Wrote: Check out the neutral safety switch. I have had the same thing with it being out of adjustment. I was always able to start the car by making sure that the shifter is pushed all the way forward. I would just pull it back and push forward into park and it would start. It finally got to far out of adjustment so I reset it and have never had a problem since. I must have not had it tight enough to begin with.
Hopefully it’s something this simple, good luck!

Thanks. If I'd a bad neutral safety switch the headlights, accessories etc. would still work right?
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#8
Yes, they would. Your problem is with the battery connectors, battery ground, or main power connections. Does your ground cable run to both the chassis (bottom screw on the voltage regulator) and engine block?



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#9
(07-07-2019, 09:39 PM)Don C Wrote: Yes, they would.  Your problem is with the battery connectors, battery ground, or main power connections. Does your ground cable run to both the chassis (bottom screw on the voltage regulator) and engine block?
 Yes. One from the battery but nothing on the regulator. If I want to make a ground where should I connect the another end? One to the regulator and one...?
If it would be a ground problem could it happen in just 30 sec./1 min? I mean I just went home stopped the car then after around a minute I couldn't restart it and no power at all, no lights etc. 

I tried after a couple of hours and I can hear a click from the solenoid. If I try again immediately nothing. If I have a click the fuel gauge goes up to show the current level in the ON position of the key but still no lights.  When I try again and no click I clearly have no power the fuel level won't go up.

[Image: IMG-20190708-063008.jpg]
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#10
Do you by any chance have one of those quick battery disconnects? I had a similar random issue and it happened to be the quick disconnect that was dirty so sometimes it will lose contact.
Double clean every battery connection and ground from the battery, engine and chassis.

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1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
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