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Won't start after dying during the monthly startup
#1
Went out to start the 'vert and take it for its monthly decent weather drive. Started great after about 5 seconds of cranking. Starter sounded normal, fired right up, idled well as the engine was warmed up. Backed out of the driveway and drove 50 feet when she started missing a bit. Feathered the gas to smooth her out and only got worse, until it died. Started right up but missing bad and then died. Tried to restart but wouldn't turn over - just a single click. Pushed her back home into the driveway and still won't turn over. 12.82 volts at the battery and positive terminal on the solenoid. No strange sounds noted while she was running.

I replaced everything during the rebuild, except the starter and starter solenoid. There's plenty of gas in the clear fuel filter and to the carb, so I'm 92.4% sure it's electrical. Which road should I head down first?

Doc

[Image: 6y14ea.jpg]

Project started 8-7-10
Completed: All new suspension, rebuilt 351C H Code bored .030 over with mild cam and intake, new 3.50 TracLok, custom exhaust system
Current "mini-project": interior upgrade Undecided
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#2
I'd check the solenoid first. That or your ground fell off.

[Image: 2rr7aiv.png]

Just cruising along minding our own business when BAM!!! The LAWS show up.
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#3
sounds like a ground issue to me
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#4
I'm going with the solenoid
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#5
Tnfastbk;99515 Wrote:I'm going with the solenoid
And I went through 3 new ones that were no good for the ex's car and ended up repairing the old one. Do you have voltage on the starter post with solenoid engaged?
The starter solenoid should not effect the ignition if wired correctly.
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#6
Sounds like two problem occurring simultaneously to me. The missing could be fuel(choke) or ignition and the single click/no turn over, is clearly in the start circuit as the battery seems to be charged. I'd check all the fasteners to make sure they are tight and not corroded. Then with a fully charged battery measure the voltage between the two large posts on the solenoid while engaging the starter. This checks the HD contact that sends power to the starter. If the contact is good you should read near 0 VDC. If not, pitch the solenoid. After market parts are just getting lower and lower in quality. Just a guess at this point. Chuck
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#7
Turn on the lights. Do they turn on? No? Bad ground or battery cable.

'Mike'
73 Convertible - 351C/4V CC heads/4bolt/forged flat tops/comp 270/rhodes/mallory unilite/tri-power/hookers/glasspacks/c6/3.50 limited slip/Gear Vendors/Global West sub frames, strut rods and shelby style traction bars/ Rear sway bar/tilt steering (not original)

Pics of modifications included in:
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#8
OK, I checked all the connections and wires, and nothing changed. Measured the voltage across the two big wires attached to the solenoid, and 0.0 Volts while engaging the ignition. Lights and buzzers work great. I can hear and feel the "click" from the solenoid when the ignition is engaged. Checked the wire to the starter, and it's attached soundly.

I also remembered that I didn't replace the voltage regulator, either. Should I just go ahead and replace solenoid and voltage regulator? Any other ideas?

Doc

[Image: 6y14ea.jpg]

Project started 8-7-10
Completed: All new suspension, rebuilt 351C H Code bored .030 over with mild cam and intake, new 3.50 TracLok, custom exhaust system
Current "mini-project": interior upgrade Undecided
  Reply
#9
I would consider upgrading the starter to a more modern gear driven style with the integral solenoid. THe wiring modifications are very simple. I went to NAPA and asked for a 1992 Bronco 351W 5 speed and it fit the cleveland perfectly. I would always replace the solenoid when changing a starter. Battery condition should be load tested if there is any doubt.

[Image: 1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png]

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!
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#10
Thanks for the tips so far. I went ahead and replaced the solenoid with no effect. Next step is the starter, I guess. I remember it was a PITA installing it after the rebuild, and was thankful that the headers were still loose so I could get it in. Dang! Dodgy

Doc

[Image: 6y14ea.jpg]

Project started 8-7-10
Completed: All new suspension, rebuilt 351C H Code bored .030 over with mild cam and intake, new 3.50 TracLok, custom exhaust system
Current "mini-project": interior upgrade Undecided
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