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Wiper Switch Removal
#1
I searched the best i could but couldn't find the definitive  answer. I've gotten the knob off and unscrewed the retainer ' removed the bezel, BUT when I push the switch into the dash to remove it, it hits the fuse box. 

How does the wiring harness attach ? Does it simply slide on and off, or is there some kind of trick / clips that need to be pushed in, or something ?  I think if I had the wires off there might be enough room to wiggle it out.

73 ragtop, 1999 Mustang Bright Atlantic Blue Paint, Phoenix Engine 302-335HP,  Edelbrock Carb & Performer manifold; c4 with 2000 stall and shiftkit; 3:55 auburn limited slip differential, Hedman shorties; Car Chemistry Exhaust

Classic Air; Tilt Steering Wheel; 1999 Chrysler Sebring bucket Seats ; power windows;
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#2
Here is a picture of the back side of the wiper switch.  I dont have any guesses how the connector comes off, but you can see some sort of tab on the back side of the switch where the connector might have a locking tab go thru.  Good luck.

[Image: wws6.jpg]
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#3
I don't remember how I removed my wiper switch exactly. Do you have an intermittent wiper or the standard two speed? The intermittent switch has another "box" right behind the switch making it more difficult to remove. The fuse box has two halves, you could unscrew the center screw in the fuse box and move it out of the way to get more room. Make sure you disconnect the battery before doing so.

1973 H Code Convertible - Medium Copper Metallic - June 8, 1973, Built Ford Marketing Sales Vehicle
[Image: DSC_0266xsm.jpg]
[Image: satellite.png] Proud Space Junk Award Winner!












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#4
runninpony 
It just pulls off the switch, you could undo the fuse box that might give you some more room. I have my dash out of the car for paint and putting everything back together.
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#5
Here is a picture of my dash out of the car, regular wiper not intermittent.
David

[Image: CAM_0113.jpg]


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
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#6
Thanks all, used your help / pictures and a little trial & error . 

I could see that the metal piece behind the dash (that switch spindle passes through)  was loose and thought that maybe that came out with the switch. I found out about this "spacer" because I found links to how it fit stumbling onto posts about this on older year Stangs. But nope, that piece was NOT coming out.

Started loosening the fuse box. Got the screw loosened but it never really screwed all the way out, but I could pretty much tell that even if I got it totally loose, it really wasn't going to be able to move much out of the way.

Reinstalled the switch so that it was held firmly in the dash. Using a big flat blade screw driver,  I was able to see the connector move, was able to get to a couple different places around the perimeter, and the connector popped off. There were no tabs holding it in, only friction. With the connector off, there was plenty of clearance to maneuver the switch out.

I was in heaven.  I had bought a new switch and a module that goes between the switch and the connector so that you have intermittent options. Had started doing the wiring and for some reason decided that I'd finish installing the switch in the dash and then finish the wiring and figuring out where to put the connector and the new module.

This is probably the first time ever that I made the right decision. i would have been really PO'd if I did all the wiring and then installed the switch in the dash.

BECAUSE :::::::::

They sold me the WRONG SWITCH. The spindle is TOO SHORT. Jawdrop

[Image: P5190009.jpg]


I honestly do not even remember where I bought it, it was at least a year ago that I bought these and was finally getting around to installing everything..
Bomb

73 ragtop, 1999 Mustang Bright Atlantic Blue Paint, Phoenix Engine 302-335HP,  Edelbrock Carb & Performer manifold; c4 with 2000 stall and shiftkit; 3:55 auburn limited slip differential, Hedman shorties; Car Chemistry Exhaust

Classic Air; Tilt Steering Wheel; 1999 Chrysler Sebring bucket Seats ; power windows;
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#7
That sucks. I have had the same thing happen with buying parts and not using them for months. After getting burned a few times, wait as long as I can and/or I compare it to the one I am replacing right away.

Here is an original on eba for $20.

https://m.ebay.com/itm/1971-1972-1973-Fo...r=1&_rdt=1

1973 H Code Convertible - Medium Copper Metallic - June 8, 1973, Built Ford Marketing Sales Vehicle
[Image: DSC_0266xsm.jpg]
[Image: satellite.png] Proud Space Junk Award Winner!












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#8
thanks for he link I don't know if I want to go used on something like this, or find a new one that is correct.

73 ragtop, 1999 Mustang Bright Atlantic Blue Paint, Phoenix Engine 302-335HP,  Edelbrock Carb & Performer manifold; c4 with 2000 stall and shiftkit; 3:55 auburn limited slip differential, Hedman shorties; Car Chemistry Exhaust

Classic Air; Tilt Steering Wheel; 1999 Chrysler Sebring bucket Seats ; power windows;
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#9
Went to the CJ Pony website and dug through all million of my old purchases and found that I bought the switch from them back in July of 2015, seemed like only yesterday....

Figured that being that old and an electric part  they wouldn't take it back, But they let me return it for full refund. The funny part was that the box had a sticker stating 69 mustang, and another sticker that they had put on with 71-73 Mustang and the correct part number. So it was totally their error.

Got the new switch installed, with an add on intermittent controller that goes between the switch and the connector.
[Image: switch.jpg]

Works lie a champ.......

thanks everyone...

73 ragtop, 1999 Mustang Bright Atlantic Blue Paint, Phoenix Engine 302-335HP,  Edelbrock Carb & Performer manifold; c4 with 2000 stall and shiftkit; 3:55 auburn limited slip differential, Hedman shorties; Car Chemistry Exhaust

Classic Air; Tilt Steering Wheel; 1999 Chrysler Sebring bucket Seats ; power windows;
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