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Wiper motor issue
#1
Wrench 
I got caught in the rain and on the way home my wipers get working. I have not look at it yet because of the crappy
weather. A few questions is the motor feed from a fuse or breaker. The only fuse I saw was for the washer pump motor and that works. I have intermitted wipers will  the Cardone replacement motor  work for me or is the for 2 speed wipers only? If the motor is bad is Cardone my only option.


John J
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#2
(10-28-2018, 07:59 PM)John J Wrote: I got caught in the rain and on the way home my wipers get working. I have not look at it yet because of the crappy
weather. A few questions is the motor feed from a fuse or breaker. The only fuse I saw was for the washer pump motor and that works. I have intermitted wipers will  the Cardone replacement motor  work for me or is the for 2 speed wipers only? If the motor is bad is Cardone my only option.


John J

I replaced mine with cheep motor from autozone. The intermittent wipers still work (sort of -work bad joints in transmission arms-not motors fault).  I am reasonably certain that the switch or a relay in the switch handles the intermittent operation.  not the motor. If you are going for concourse restoration it is a simple motor. You can rebuild it. Probably only needs brushes if rest of system is good. If more severe damage from overheating  or excess load , Check your transmission arms so you don’t burn up your new motor.
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#3
I took mine apart cleaned it put Red & Tacky grease in it and put back on. It was working then stopped, lol. I am thinking it is the ground strap on mine I sprayed the casting with clear and did the ground also.


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
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#4
(11-03-2018, 09:45 AM)Doc302 Wrote:  I am reasonably certain that the switch or a relay in the switch handles the intermittent operation.  not the motor. 

Doc, You are correct, the intermittent function is part of the wiper switch. 

John, the wiper motor is not protected by a fuse. It is protected by a circuit breaker built into the wiper switch. The power for it comes through the ignition switch via the main power feed to the ignition switch.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#5
(11-03-2018, 09:45 AM)Doc302 Wrote:
(10-28-2018, 07:59 PM)John J Wrote: I got caught in the rain and on the way home my wipers get working. I have not look at it yet because of the crappy
weather. A few questions is the motor feed from a fuse or breaker. The only fuse I saw was for the washer pump motor and that works. I have intermitted wipers will  the Cardone replacement motor  work for me or is the for 2 speed wipers only? If the motor is bad is Cardone my only option.


John J

I replaced mine with cheep motor from autozone. The intermittent wipers still work (sort of -work bad joints in transmission arms-not motors fault).  I am reasonably certain that the switch or a relay in the switch handles the intermittent operation.  not the motor. If you are going for concourse restoration it is a simple motor. You can rebuild it. Probably only needs brushes if rest of system is good. If more severe damage from overheating  or excess load , Check your transmission arms so you don’t burn up your new motor.
It's easy to take the motor's Field Magnetic Housing or Stator Magnets (the round casing) and gear plate off. I found it a bit tricky reassembling it. You have to retract the three spring-loaded brushes while sliding the Amature and Commutator sections between them. I first used toothpicks to retract and hold the three springs back in their square casings. Then slide the brushes into the casings. Then I slid the motor's Amature and Commutator assembly back into the gear housing. At this point, the edge of the Commutator will hit the brushes and not go past them without retracting the brushes further in the square casings. So I cut three strips of thin (credit card like) plastic 1/4" x 1" to wedge between the commutator and the brushes. Then with a slight push, the commutator will push the plastic wedges, brushes and springs back enough to slide past them. At this point remove the plastic strips and seat the Armature, Commutator, and shaft all the way into the worm gear. Make sure the pressure plate at the end of the worm gear is positioned at the very end of the Armature shaft. Now hold the worm gear firmly in place, while sliding the Field Magnetic Housing back over the Armature (make sure to hold the worm gear in place otherwise as you slide the Field Magnetic Housing back on, or the magnet in the  housing will pull the armature, commutator, and worm gear out of position). Also, try to align the casing screw holes up as close as possible with their counterparts before you slid it on, so you do not have to twist the casing too much afterward when reinserting the long casing screws. 

I have taken apart a few motors and wish I had taken pictures of the assembly process when I did it.


[Image: DC-Motor-Diagram.gif]
[Image: Wiper-Motor.jpg]
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#6
runninpony 
My wiper motor (2-speed) needed an extra ground wire to the housing...WHY? Beats me! Works fine.

71-73 Mustangs never die, they just go faster!
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#7
(11-04-2018, 11:12 AM)rackerm Wrote:
(11-03-2018, 09:45 AM)Doc302 Wrote:
(10-28-2018, 07:59 PM)John J Wrote: I got caught in the rain and on the way home my wipers get working. I have not look at it yet because of the crappy
weather. A few questions is the motor feed from a fuse or breaker. The only fuse I saw was for the washer pump motor and that works. I have intermitted wipers will  the Cardone replacement motor  work for me or is the for 2 speed wipers only? If the motor is bad is Cardone my only option.


John J

I replaced mine with cheep motor from autozone. The intermittent wipers still work (sort of -work bad joints in transmission arms-not motors fault).  I am reasonably certain that the switch or a relay in the switch handles the intermittent operation.  not the motor. If you are going for concourse restoration it is a simple motor. You can rebuild it. Probably only needs brushes if rest of system is good. If more severe damage from overheating  or excess load , Check your transmission arms so you don’t burn up your new motor.
It's easy to take the motor's Field Magnetic Housing or Stator Magnets (the round casing) and gear plate off. I found it a bit tricky reassembling it. You have to retract the three spring-loaded brushes while sliding the Amature and Commutator sections between them. I first used toothpicks to retract and hold the three springs back in their square casings. Then slide the brushes into the casings. Then I slid the motor's Amature and Commutator assembly back into the gear housing. At this point, the edge of the Commutator will hit the brushes and not go past them without retracting the brushes further in the square casings. So I cut three strips of thin (credit card like) plastic 1/4" x 1" to wedge between the commutator and the brushes. Then with a slight push, the commutator will push the plastic wedges, brushes and springs back enough to slide past them. At this point remove the plastic strips and seat the Armature, Commutator, and shaft all the way into the worm gear. Make sure the pressure plate at the end of the worm gear is positioned at the very end of the Armature shaft. Now hold the worm gear firmly in place, while sliding the Field Magnetic Housing back over the Armature (make sure to hold the worm gear in place otherwise as you slide the Field Magnetic Housing back on, or the magnet in the  housing will pull the armature, commutator, and worm gear out of position). Also, try to align the casing screw holes up as close as possible with their counterparts before you slid it on, so you do not have to twist the casing too much afterward when reinserting the long casing screws. 

I have taken apart a few motors and wish I had taken pictures of the assembly process when I did it.


[Image: DC-Motor-Diagram.gif]
[Image: Wiper-Motor.jpg]

rackerm.
Yes, they can be a pain to re-assemble, I have used dental floss on some I have put back together to tie around the brushes to hold them back as you slide it together.

1973 Mustang convertible, F code w/ C4, stock survivor with refresh in progress. Blue glow w/ Blue Comfortweave interior.
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