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Windlace and door panel window seals
#1
Anyone have any methods for installing the windlace and the inner window seals on the door panels and rear side window seals. Originally the factory stapled these on but I can't find anyone that can do this.
thx

-john
(jbojo)
351C 4V cc heads, 10.5 : 1 CR, 290 Herbert cam, Flat top forged pistons, forged connecting rods, Atomic efi,
C6 with Gear Vendor overdrive, 3.89 Tru Trac, Hooker Super Comp with 2 1/2" Pypes Exhaust.        

Some Mod pictures can be seen at:

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#2
jbojo;194113 Wrote:Anyone have any methods for installing the windlace and the inner window seals on the door panels and rear side window seals. Originally the factory stapled these on but I can't find anyone that can do this.
thx


I held a metal plate in the U-shape, the staple can only get through the first layer of plastic.
Then bend the staple with pliers.
After installation you can see the staples through the glass ... paint them black in advance.
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#3
jbojo;194113 Wrote:Anyone have any methods for installing the windlace and the inner window seals on the door panels and rear side window seals. Originally the factory stapled these on but I can't find anyone that can do this.
thx

Plus 1 with Eddy on the windlace staples - you can use wood also as a backer

On the w-strip there are holes to drill thru and push the supplied staples in then bend them with pliers.
You can also use pop rivets
Also need to paint the heads black
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#4
eddyw;194116 Wrote:
jbojo;194113 Wrote:Anyone have any methods for installing the windlace and the inner window seals on the door panels and rear side window seals. Originally the factory stapled these on but I can't find anyone that can do this.
thx


I held a metal plate in the U-shape, the staple can only get through the first layer of plastic.
Then bend the staple with pliers.
After installation you can see the staples through the glass ... paint them black in advance.

Thx Eddw, I'll try that today.

[/quote]

Plus 1 with Eddy on the windlace staples - you can use wood also as a backer

On the w-strip there are holes to drill thru and push the supplied staples in then bend them with pliers.
You can also use pop rivets
Also need to paint the heads black
[/quote]

Don.
If I go with a pop rivet, do you have to grind down the back side of the rivet?
thx

-john
(jbojo)
351C 4V cc heads, 10.5 : 1 CR, 290 Herbert cam, Flat top forged pistons, forged connecting rods, Atomic efi,
C6 with Gear Vendor overdrive, 3.89 Tru Trac, Hooker Super Comp with 2 1/2" Pypes Exhaust.        

Some Mod pictures can be seen at:

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#5
Not if you use a short one
It's been awhile - I think 1/8 was too short and went with a 1/4

Remember to paint them black

Ohio Mustang Supply
440-949-2556

[Image: oms_sig_banner.jpg]
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#6
bulb 
jbojo,

I had a friend of mine who has a 1973 Mustang Convertible and he went to a Auto Interiors and Convertible Tops business and had most of his trim worked stapled just like the factory. He says it really looks good. It might be an idea to look for one in your location to see what can be done.


Here is the website of the business: http://www.autointeriorsandtops.com/

We have provided Auto Interiors and Convertible Tops to the Raleigh, Durham, Cary, Apex, Garner and the Triangle area since 1973. No matter what type of vehicle or boat you have, when it comes to upgrading or repairing your interiors, covers, sunroofs, convertible tops or accessories, we are the best in town. We are a well established trim and upholstery shop and specialize in auto interior carpet, convertible top replacement and repair, sunroof installation and accessories. Auto Interiors and Tops provides quality specialty work including boat upholstery, aircraft upholstery, motorcycle seats, commercial furniture upholstery and a variety of other trim related items. For over 33 years our family business has been built on reputation and our specialized staff with only the best skill sets.

Thanks,

mustang7173 Big Grin
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#7
Pretty funny when i did this about 10 years ago, i came up with my own method.

I couldn't get a staple gun to sit right and i was worried i would damage the plastic on the quarters.
I lined up the window lace where i wanted it, then i taped it into position and i took a micro hand drill and i hand drilled 2 holes through the wind lace lining up with the original Staple hole in the factory plastic panels and by hand one at a time i installed the staples and bent the back of the staples with a screw driver. It took me maybe 2 hours for both sides but i got the alignment just right and no extra holes in the plastic panels.

i did the same for the window whiskers for the front and rear side windows, and i hand drilled for the rivets holes then used the rivet tool on them to complete.

then i went back and painted the tops of the staples and rivets with flat black paint.
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#8
72HCODE;194180 Wrote:Pretty funny when i did this about 10 years ago, i came up with my own method.

I couldn't get a staple gun to sit right and i was worried i would damage the plastic on the quarters.
I lined up the window lace where i wanted it, then i taped it into position and i took a micro hand drill and i hand drilled 2 holes through the wind lace lining up with the original Staple hole in the factory plastic panels and by hand one at a time i installed the staples and bent the back of the staples with a screw driver. It took me maybe 2 hours for both sides but i got the alignment just right and no extra holes in the plastic panels.

i did the same for the window whiskers for the front and rear side windows, and i hand drilled for the rivets holes then used the rivet tool on them to complete.

then i went back and painted the tops of the staples and rivets with flat black paint.


Yeah I was going to use a Dremel tool to drill the holes. Thx all for all the suggestions!!!

-john
(jbojo)
351C 4V cc heads, 10.5 : 1 CR, 290 Herbert cam, Flat top forged pistons, forged connecting rods, Atomic efi,
C6 with Gear Vendor overdrive, 3.89 Tru Trac, Hooker Super Comp with 2 1/2" Pypes Exhaust.        

Some Mod pictures can be seen at:

  Reply
#9
ConfusedWell I haven't tried it yet but a friend who has restored more than a few cars swears by 3m adhesive. Its a particular one (I bought a tube so if someone interested I can supply name anyway you put a coat on each side let it tack up 5-10 minutes shove them together and he swears they never move. Of course you miss out on the drilling holes and bending staples and painting. Check with some interior shops and see if anyone has heard of this. I figure I'll try and if it doesn't work I can still go the rivet or staple way. Just not there yet.
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#10
jennyrn95630@yahoo.com;194910 Wrote:ConfusedWell I haven't tried it yet but a friend who has restored more than a few cars swears by 3m adhesive. Its a particular one (I bought a tube so if someone interested I can supply name anyway you put a coat on each side let it tack up 5-10 minutes shove them together and he swears they never move. Of course you miss out on the drilling holes and bending staples and painting. Check with some interior shops and see if anyone has heard of this. I figure I'll try and if it doesn't work I can still go the rivet or staple way. Just not there yet.

We used the traditional mounting technique along with 3m weather stripping adhesive and they turned out great.

351w - Ford racing GT40X 178 cc aluminum heads - Ford racing(crane) 1.7 roller rockers - Comp Cams 280H magnum cam .544" / .544" lift - ARP fasteners - hedman longtubes - magnaflow exhaust with X pipe -  MSD digital 6al box - MSD coil - optima red top battery - tuff stuff 140 amp alternator - ported weiand stealth intake  - edelbrock 1406 600 carb  - march pullies and brackets - Be cool fan controller - derale electric fan - FMX trans - motive 4.11 gears - traction lok - competition engineering subframe connectors - lakewood traction bars.                                            










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