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Wilwood master cylinder
#21
(12-06-2018, 08:52 AM)jowens1126 Wrote: Cars with aggressive cams and low vacuum often use an electric vacuum pump for the brakes.

something like this.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Brake-Vacuum-Pu...rk:20:pf:0

I have around 13 in of vac at idle set at 1050 rpm. I have no issues what so ever with my power brakes or my HVAC controls.

'73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

'73 F code convertible. Bright red. Needs total restore. (IE HOT MESS)

- Jason
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#22
I wouldn't worry then. You know manufacturers are just out to protect themselves from lawsuits.

"I drank what?" - Socrates
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#23
12, but I do have a vacuum canister and it seems to work fine for most of the driving I do. Sometimes the pedal is a little firmer though. I put together an electronic vacuum unit using a volvo pump and an aftermarket adjustable valve, but stopped at the mock up stage because I didn't feel it was necessary. I put the canister where the old fuel vent canister was originally mounted

[Image: 1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png]

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!
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#24
I do have a vacuum canister as well.

'73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

'73 F code convertible. Bright red. Needs total restore. (IE HOT MESS)

- Jason
  Reply
#25
(12-06-2018, 09:01 AM)Tnfastbk Wrote:
(11-30-2018, 03:26 PM)tony-muscle Wrote: I contacted them a second time a few days ago and did not hear back from them. When I contacted them the first time they keep insisting that it won't work unless I have 18 mmHg of vacuum. Although I understand that I need vacuum for the brakes to work better, it is not to say that there are alternatives to low vacuum. They keep insisting that I change to manual brakes. I found it ironic that a company that sells "high performance" muscle car brakes got so hanged up on the vacuum level when most performance muscle cars have bigger cams and lower vacuum than factory. After a few emails I got fed up and told them to move past the vacuum issue and suggest a size for the master cylinder, but they never replied. Needless to say, I am very frustrated with their customer service. I will just buy the 1" bore master cylinder.

Man I hate that. I had really good results with them.  I also have manual brakes and called them. It seems that I get better results on the phone.

I finally got a response from them. They basically confirm what was stated here. They recommend the 1" and 1 1/16" bore for power brakes. If you want to have a harder pedal feel you go with 1 1/16. I just bought the 1" cylinder, p/n 260-8555-P.

        [Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
4-wheel disc brakes
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#26
I received this master cylinder today. This thing is a beauty compared to the Scott Drake. It is robust, light, well made and looks like a piece of art. A little longer than stock but I tried and fits well. I can't wait to test its performance once the car is back in the road after the snow/salt are gone.

        [Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
4-wheel disc brakes
  Reply
#27
(12-11-2018, 10:04 AM)tony-muscle Wrote: I received this master cylinder today. This thing is a beauty compared to the Scott Drake. It is robust, light, well made and looks like a piece of art. A little longer than stock but I tried and fits well. I can't wait to test its performance once the car is back in the road after the snow/salt are gone.

I'm glad you finally got things worked out. Mine has been on the car from the time I got it on the road with zero issues. I know its a little late but I will post an email discussing things with Wilwood. Maybe it will help someone else in the process.

Roy,
 
Thank you for the inquiry and use of Wilwood Disc Brakes.  For manual brakes, the 6:1 pedal ratio is what we recommend as a minimum.  You have two options for master cylinders, if you like a good pedal modulation (travel), you are a smaller person, and the car is mostly street, the 7/8" bore Aluminum tandem master cylinder will be a good choice.  This will provide you with about 1000 psi of pressure at the calipers with 100 pounds of leg effort. 
 
http://www.wilwood.com/PartNoSearch.aspx?itemno=9439
 
A 1 inch bore is also usable.  This will stiffen up the pedal, making about 800 psi under the same effort.  Myself being a bigger guy prefers a stiffer pedal.  Also the 1 inch bore is the more popular choice for drag racing.
 
http://www.wilwood.com/PartNoSearch.aspx?itemno=8555
 
You may be able to use our 260-8419 or 260-11179 proportioning valves.
 
http://www.wilwood.com/Search/PartNoSear...temno=8419
 
http://www.wilwood.com/Search/PartNoSear...emno=11179
 
Regards,
 
MJ - Wilwood
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