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Who has installed thier own seat upholstery?
#1
I am going to go with the TMI upgraded bolster kit and seat foam.  I've done the job before on a 71 Corvette but that was a long time ago.  How many of you have do your own seat skin installs?  Tips\tricks?  Pics?

Also who has the TMI upgraded kits with the bolstered sides?  Do you like them?

Thanks!
Wade
1972 Mach 1 351 cj 4speed
"We confide in our strength, without boasting of it; we respect that of others, without fearing it."--Thomas Jefferson

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#2
If you are a big guy at all, you don't want the bolstered kit. I just put in new foam and now my seats are much taller!! As far as tips, it's pretty straight forward, just take your time. You may have to re-use the vertical bars for the seat back, they are much thicker than just listing rods. Also in our seats there is a thick cloth thing that pulls in the head rest were the chrome button goes. make sure to re-use or re-make one of these pieces, it's critical to pulling in that part. Lots of hog rings. Also you might want to straighten out the metal of the seat frames too. My drivers side was crooked, I tried to straighten it the best I could, but it still a little off. You will also probably find that the seat bottom pans are splitting in the back corners (the part that supports the backrest), I mean the metal pan part. Find a good welder to fix these. You don't want these to tear again or your seats will be really uncomfortable, and you will have to go back in. I even added extra bracing in the metal to make my seats more rigid. And finally wrap the outer wire of the 2 pieces with cloth before installing foam so it doesn't cut into the foam. Good luck!! I actually had fun with this part of my car project!
[+] 1 user Likes Omie01's post
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#3
You need to have a sturdy work bench and cover it with carpet to go easy on the seat covers. Watch some videos on youtube there are some doing mustangs not our year but close to the same. The hog ring pliers are a must, no other way to hold and crimp them.
You might find rusty springs and frame and need to blast them and repaint.
Did you find seat frames? I went and looked at two parts cars the other day in Asheville. A coupe and a vert. I probably have seat frames but I do not know about the tracks which I think are different between vert and Mach 1.


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
[+] 1 user Likes Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs's post
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#4
(08-27-2018, 07:03 AM)Omie01 Wrote: If you are a big guy at all, you don't want the bolstered kit. I just put in new foam and now my seats are much taller!!
Good info!!  I am 6'4""250!!!



(08-27-2018, 08:46 AM)Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs Wrote: You need to have a sturdy work bench and cover it with carpet to go easy on the seat covers. Watch some videos on youtube there are some doing mustangs not our year but close to the same. The hog ring pliers are a must, no other way to hold and crimp them.
You might find rusty springs and frame and need to blast them and repaint.
Did you find seat frames? I went and looked at two parts cars the other day in Asheville. A coupe and a vert. I probably have seat frames but I do not know about the tracks which I think are different between vert and Mach 1.

David,  PM sent.  I just need a drivers side seat and I have the tracks.  The drivers side pan was rotted out on mine.

Thanks!
Wade
1972 Mach 1 351 cj 4speed
"We confide in our strength, without boasting of it; we respect that of others, without fearing it."--Thomas Jefferson

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#5
I'm not sure which kit you're talking about, but I went with the Sport Seat II kit from TMI (foam and upholstery - sold separately).  I'm 6'5" and 300-ish, and have no issues with the extra bolstering provided by the Sport Seat II set.

As for tips/tricks:
  • Get more hog rings than you think you'll need
  • Get the 'bent' hog ring pliers
  • Use really thick wire hangers as listing rods if some of yours are damaged (they work in a pinch)
  • Use plastic bags on the foam to help the upholstery slide better
  • Place the cover(s) in the sun before installing them (they'll be a bit more pliable)
Mine turned out decent enough - the creases relaxed after a bit (especially with my chunky ass getting in and out of the car)

My driver seat - frame was rotted out, so I used another from a parts car:
[Image: attachment.php?aid=43739]

Here's how they came out - like I said, the creased relaxed a bit after some more tugging, time in the sun, and actual use:
[Image: attachment.php?aid=43740]

You can see how much thicker the Sport Seat IIs are than the stock 'flat' buckets.

I also didn't reinstall the seat 'bumpers' (plastic thingies that buffer the seat back against the seat bottom), which made them lay back a bit more, so I have just enough headroom.  If the seats fail for whatever reason, I'll order a set of the TMI Precision Seats with the same upholstery already installed.

I have a whole new appreciation for those who do upholstery, that's for sure.

Eric

[Image: mach1sig2.gif]
[+] 1 user Likes Mister 4x4's post
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#6
+1 on everything eric said. Also while you put plastic bags over the foam to help it slide, you can throw a little baby powder in there too. Helps slide even easier. If your interior is completely out you may consider moving the driver side seat rider back a few inches for more leg room. I moved mine back and cut the height of it down a bit for more headroom.

Kevin

1971 Mach 1
408C Stroker
C4 w/3,000 stall
8.8" Rear w/3.73's
Disc brakes all way around.

[Image: 28ivsix.png]




                                                                                             
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#7
I brought my foam and new covers to a local upholstery shop.  They did the fronts and the back, no wrinkles, nice and even and I was super happy to pay $400 for the service and not have to touch one hog ring!


[Image: 20160702_135953.jpg]
[+] 1 user Likes kcmash's post
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#8
For the plastic bags you mean garbage bags over the frame and foam and then slide the covers over. The bags actually stay inside the seat afterwards right? I know probably a dumb question..

Eric,
Did you buy from TMI or another vendor that sales their stuff? I looked on TMI's site and did not see a sport II. Your seats look really good.

Thanks!
Wade
1972 Mach 1 351 cj 4speed
"We confide in our strength, without boasting of it; we respect that of others, without fearing it."--Thomas Jefferson

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#9
(08-28-2018, 06:39 AM)scgamecock Wrote: For the plastic bags you mean garbage bags over the frame and foam and then slide the covers over.  The bags actually stay inside the seat afterwards right?  I know probably a dumb question..

Eric,
Did you buy from TMI or another vendor that sales their stuff?  I looked on TMI's site and did not see a sport II.  Your seats look really good.

I used grocery bags, from walmart or giant eagle. Slide one over the top by the headrest and a little baby powder on the backside of the cover. Then start sliding it over. The bag and powder help keep the cover from grabbing the new foam. The bag may stay in there or you might be able to get it out. I believe I left one in there when I did mine. Same with seat bottom. Slide bag over, powder, repeat!

Kevin

1971 Mach 1
408C Stroker
C4 w/3,000 stall
8.8" Rear w/3.73's
Disc brakes all way around.

[Image: 28ivsix.png]




                                                                                             
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#10
I agree with Kcmash on getting a professional to install the seat covers. I bought new foam and was charged $300.00 to install both fronts and rear. It always shows, in my opinion when someone who doesn’t have the correct tools, ie steamer to get all the wrinkles and creases out. I would have hated to not spend the $300.00 and have to look at a job that wasn’t 100% every time I went to get into the car........ Money well spent !!!!
Thanks,
Jay
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