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Who does this?
#1
So the time has come and I ordered the replacement sheet metal for the trunk floor (and a gas tank). just waiting on the weatherstrip for the trunk to start. 
Can someone explain to me why someone would do this instead of welding it shut? it looks like it goes all the way down the wheelhouse into the floor pans. I havent pulled the carpet up yet but under the back seat i saw a big dent, and guess what! the sheet metal wasnt even spotwelded on except for the corner pieces at most. this is ridiculous. its riddled with rust because they didnt paint it either.
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#2
does anybody have tips for replacing the trunk floor- Properly? i dont even see a way to get it in there easily
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#3
I have personally replaced the trunk floor in my 71 Vert. It is difficult and time consuming. I had to replace the rear taillight panel so I was able to get the new floor inside that way.. I do not think I could have gotten it in any other way. Time, patience, and a good welder are your friends here. Good Luck.  Ed Raver
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#4
That just looks like factory Seam sealer. They applied it heavy and messy in spots. Most people usually replace the taillight panel at same time as trunk. Makes access a lot easier. But if yours is in good shape it can be done with tail light panel in place. It’s tight but the trunk pan will fit through the opening.

Kevin

1971 Mach 1
408C Stroker
C4 w/3,000 stall
8.8" Rear w/3.73's
Disc brakes all way around.

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#5
Sounds like Earl Scheib body work!   Big Grin



Mike AKA Ole Pony & Rare Pony

Our current Mustang garage/driveway
1973 Mustang Convert - Bought in 1974 - Still have it!
2004 Mach 1 Oxford White Auto, Bought Sept 06


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upload a photo on internet




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#6
It does look like that is the original body seam sealer. You do need to replace after you weld in the panels. Today they actually put seam sealer between the layers of metal and did some in 70's. It is a weld through sealer that also expands when in the bake oven.
There are really no short cuts to replacing any of the metal. Takes lots of time to drill the spot welds and prep the surface. Then the repo parts do not fit so you hammer to fit and paint to match.
Here is picture of an original car you can see all the seam sealer. They squirted it on then hit is with a brush. To do the same you need a really stiff brush and cut the bristles off short. 3-M and others make the sealer. Most of the better shops have switched to the two part sealer that sets up quicker. The sealer on our cars was put on before any paint was on also so when the sealer cracks you get rust under it. Especially the Torque boxes in front. I scraped the cracked sealer off the yellow car and put POR on and then sealer. If you get a car dip stripped it removes all the sealer, paint and rust but also needs a phosphate rinse to stop rust. You should also treat any bare metal you have with phosphate and use a weld through primer if you can.
David
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When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
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#7
Okay, Glad to know its not some jackass that did it. it just seems weird that they didn't weld it in. I do need a new tail light panel as there is damage around there.
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What should I do with the holes in the back panel right there? the new trunk floor doesn't reach that. Ill hunt down a new tail light panel for sure though.
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#8
https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-new-...-71-mach-1

Check out first few pages of this thread. It will show tearing out the trunk and tail light panel and what to expect when putting it all back together. Let me know if you have any questions after that.

Kevin

1971 Mach 1
408C Stroker
C4 w/3,000 stall
8.8" Rear w/3.73's
Disc brakes all way around.

[Image: 28ivsix.png]




                                                                                             
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#9
Looks like your quarter fillers are in good shape, so you don't have to go this far.

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#10
(07-22-2018, 07:50 AM)Hemikiller Wrote: Looks like your quarter fillers are in good shape, so you don't have to go this far.

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Thank you for sharing that photo! I just noticed it could be possible to unbolt the whole back end. Im probably going to do that. where would i get the panels that the trunk meets with? the ones that go straight down off the trunk. theyre rusted out as well
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