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When is it time to rebuild?
#1
In a quandry. My 351C 2v engine has 127K miles and runs well, no smoke and decent power. Next year I want to drive it around to some out of state shows and then in 2014 want to make the 600 or so mile trip to Charlotte NC for the Mustang aniversary.

Should I get i rebuilt now with everything running good or wait until something breaks?

Any ideas on the cost of having the engine "Refreshed" including having the engine removed?
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#2
Are you looking to have someone rebuild it for you, or do it yourself?

[Image: 2rr7aiv.png]

Just cruising along minding our own business when BAM!!! The LAWS show up.
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#3
As long as you have decent compression and good oil pressure I would keep driving it. If you want to do some upgrades (performance) I would rebuild it at the same time.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#4
i do a compression test , if shes holding good compression , i would leave her alone. they had hardened valve seats i believe for unleaded by 71. put a can of engine restore in it next oil change. and be gratefull. i do run some lucas upper cylinder lube in my older engines as the ethenol blends are [dry] protects the carb some
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#5
Yeah, if it has good compression and good oil pressure then drive it.

'Mike'
73 Convertible - 351C/4V CC heads/4bolt/forged flat tops/comp 270/rhodes/mallory unilite/tri-power/hookers/glasspacks/c6/3.50 limited slip/Gear Vendors/Global West sub frames, strut rods and shelby style traction bars/ Rear sway bar/tilt steering (not original)

Pics of modifications included in:
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#6
stant;101191 Wrote:they had hardened valve seats i believe for unleaded by 71.

Mine didn't.

Rick Bombard
1971 Grabber Green Mach 1 351C 4V
2013 Race Red California Special Convertible
1973 Medium Copper Metallic Convertible 302 4V     SOLD
1953 F-100 project

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#7
I had 200k miles on an original 351C 2v, Auto Trans., power steering, alternator. Never did anything but change oil/grease fittings, brakes, tires, water pump and replaced rear springs. I would drive that car anywhere, anytime and not think twice.

So did the guy who swiped it.

[Image: 11jmcuc.png]
351C Bold Manners, Brash Attitude
Favorite Teams: Michigan Wolverines and Whoever Is Playing Ohio State.

When I drive past a herd of cows, the cows MOO at me
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#8
If it's not broke why fix it. Just do a full service to it and roll.
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#9
Agreed if it runs good and has good compression and oil pressure keep it going. Just keep changing the oil regularly, every 3k miles or once a year in the spring whichever comes first.


BTW "hardened" valve seats did not come about until the mid 70's. Don't worry about it though, the doomsday reports were WAY overblown. There is little measurable valve seat recession under "hobby" use.

Jeff T.

Low buck, touring style, '73 Convertible "rolling restoration", 351c, 2v heads with a shave and a haircut, Performer intake, Holley 650(ish), roller rockers, screw in studs, guideplates, stainless valves, Duraspark / Motorsports MSD, T-5 conversion. 1-1/8" front, 3/4" rear swaybars KYB shocks and some home brewed subframe connectors. Future plans; JGC steering box, Cobra brakes and... paint, interior, etc.

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passenger.

[Image: 1_12_09_14_10_15_11.png]
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#10
droptop73;101228 Wrote:BTW "hardened" valve seats did not come about until the mid 70's. Don't worry about it though, the doomsday reports were WAY overblown. There is little measurable valve seat recession under "hobby" use.

Of my 200k+ miles, probably 140k were on unleaded fuel. If the seats were worn, it didn't show in any leak test or pressure test that I can remember.

My personal experience was no unleaded fuel harm.

[Image: 11jmcuc.png]
351C Bold Manners, Brash Attitude
Favorite Teams: Michigan Wolverines and Whoever Is Playing Ohio State.

When I drive past a herd of cows, the cows MOO at me
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