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Wheel Studs
#1
Hey Guys

So this week-end, after too much thought and too much time of investigation, I finally replaced
the Wheel Studs in the rear end of my '72 Mustang.

I looked at every single Wheel Stud on the planet and finally opted for the Dorman 610-368 stud.

The stock Knurl for the rear (Drum Brakes) was for a .625 Knurl. The Dorman 610-368 has a 
knurl of .627, but the guy from Dorman assured me the .627 would fall within the tolerance
range. They pulled in nicely using a thrust bearing installer and liberal amounts of anti-seize.

I had to get something longer than what the stock Wheel Stud was as I couldn't get a secure enough
grip for my American Racing Torque Thrust Wheels. With the new studs, I can get 15 full turns till
tight.

Now on to the front Discs. I purchased the Raybestos 6016R Rotors and will need to pop out a stud
to find one to replace the stock. The stock length is identical to the Raybestos length and it just
won't do to give me that satisfaction that those things won't come flying off one day. Raybestos
confirmed to me that the knurl range is between .600 and .608......so I'll need to pop one to see
what they look like so I can start the search for an extended stud.

Feel free to chime in with ideas or questions.

Mike
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#2
Does your new wheels use a tapered seat or a flat seat with a washer for the lug nuts? Most of the wheels that were thicker in the mount area used a flat seat so that the nut could be made to extend into the wheel to obtain enough thread.
Good that you are concerned some are not.
I loaded a 69 Ford van so heavy once that the lugs started to pop off going down the interstate. Had to get a tire guy to come out and bring new studs and replace on the side of the interstate. He did not know how to do without a press so I showed him, lol. Still cost me $100 for the call and the studs. After new studs the axles actually started working out of the bearings and hit the tires on the outside fenders. I would stop jack up and kick them back in until I got home. Took them out both bearings were busted. I had this happen several times. I was bad to just load the thing till you could not put any more in it, lol.
That van had an nodular iron 9" in it.


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
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#3
(08-20-2018, 09:20 AM)Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs Wrote: Does your new wheels use a tapered seat or a flat seat with a washer for the lug nuts? Most of the wheels that were thicker in the mount area used a flat seat so that the nut could be made to extend into the wheel to obtain enough thread.
Good that you are concerned some are not.
I loaded a 69 Ford van so heavy once that the lugs started to pop off going down the interstate. Had to get a tire guy to come out and bring new studs and replace on the side of the interstate. He did not know how to do without a press so I showed him, lol. Still cost me $100 for the call and the studs. After new studs the axles actually started working out of the bearings and hit the tires on the outside fenders. I would stop jack up and kick them back in until I got home. Took them out both bearings were busted. I had this happen several times. I was bad to just load the thing till you could not put any more in it, lol.
That van had an nodular iron 9" in it.

Hey there

Thanks for the question. I have the AR Torque Thrust VNT70R wheels. They are indeed tapered.

For sure I don't want to be cruising along the highway one day when I start hearing lug nuts
popping off. It did actually happen to me after I put these wheels on...but that was down a back road
and luckily I had the top down and could hear them sailing off one at a time. Needless to say, I stopped 
real quick Smile
  Reply
#4
Hey All

Well...the Raybestos Disc-Hub changeover to a longer stud is downright kickin my ass.

I popped out a stud and it is approx a .612 knurl with a .750 shoulder..and of course...
only 1 inch of thread.

To make this work with my American Racing Wheels...I need at least 1.25 inches without
the quick start included in that length.

I can find "close to" on extended studs.....but nothing with a .750 inch shoulder...everything's
a little less in shoulder length.

So..question of the day: Can I install a stud into my Raybestos Disc-Hubs with a little shorter
shoulder...or does it have to be spot on to the exact shoulder length?

Common sense say "No, Stupid"...but.....someone somewhere can probably tell me better Smile

Thanks
Mike
  Reply
#5
Here's the complete list of Dorman studs from their site.


Attached Files
.xlsx   WheelLugStudAttributes.xlsx (Size: 60.49 KB / Downloads: 6)


  Reply
#6
(08-29-2018, 03:28 PM)Hemikiller Wrote: Here's the complete list of Dorman studs from their site.

After sorting, I found this item may work: 610-381.1, 0.618" knurl diameter, 0.75" shoulder diameter, and 2.5" underhead length.  9/16 x 18.

Let me check your shorts!
http://midlifeharness.com

[Image: Flamicon2.jpg]


[Image: oldfart.png]
  Reply
#7
Hey All

Many thanks to Hemi-killer and Midlife for their input. The Dorman Excel sheet was great to sort
around to what might work. Right now seems the Dorman 610-162 is a semi-decent match.

I wouldn't be averse to the Dorman 610-381 9/16th Stud if it at least fits thru the Stud hole with no drilling
or anything crazy.

I'm a wee bit bothered with Dorman's inconsistency on some sizes. The Spreadsheet Hemikiller sent
has the 610-381 with a .75 inch shoulder...but Dorman's own website has .725. I've seen other posts
on retailer websites where people read they were getting one size and turns out to be different when
actually in hand.

I dunno...I just want to be done with this so I can get on to screwing up other things on the car Smile

Thanks Guys!
Mike
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