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What's this lever for???
#1
Under the dash are two pull type levers that for the life of me I can't figure out what they operate. I know it's a stupid question, but does anyone know what these operate? On the driver's side I have the emergency brake release (which the PO disconnected apparently, but that'll be a project for another day), manual choke, and then the unknown lever. I'm thinking maybe high-beam since I don't have a floor button, but with the head lights on I don't notice a difference between the illumination when it's pushed in or pulled out.

The second is on the passenger side, just on the side of the center console. The cable runs under the glove box and into the firewall and it seems to be stuck, doesn't move in or out although I didn't want to pull too hard without knowing what it is.

Anyone have any input?

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#2
Air vent on a non AC car
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#3
Red351 beat me to it, I was going to say for the ejection seats Haha



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#4
Ahhh...That makes sense, the PO told me it was a factory air car but he wasn't exactly accurate on a few things here and there so I wouldn't be surprised. I guess maybe the passenger side is just stuck. I'm planning on replacing the entire AC system with a classicair system this year so that'll be something to look into then.

That'll lead me to my next mission, finding the damned high beam switch. Unless it was covered by the carpet during a restoration process I can't find the damned floor button.
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#5
are they for the air vents ?? and someone repositioned them. mine are to the outside of dash next to ea door.
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#6
(05-17-2018, 10:17 AM)73' mach 1 Wrote:
(05-17-2018, 07:53 AM)SVO2SCJ Wrote: Rebuilding and "building a stroker" , that will turn into OH and I need a 3G upgrade, alum waterpump , can you run in on a stand / I'll get the MSD/Distributor and carb to you before..........is two different things !

I guess I left a lot out when posting. I've been slowly putting together pieces for this car over the years. I haven't fully decided if I'm going to stroke the motor or just do some kind of performance rebuild. I currently have FPA Headers, blue thunder intake, quickfuel 750 slayer, TKO 600, larger rad with electric fans, still need to upgrade alt to 3G and all new suspension. All A-arms and control arms are stock replacements. The springs are eaton (factory w/ac weight) with 1"lower. The shocks are blis sport front and back with TPC 4.5 mid eye leaf springs.

1) you will find out (in talking) who will talk about the "pieces you are giving him" (open chamber/smog intake (?) and what you need on a stock vs a stroker for fuel.

I'm not building a race car but more of a street machine. I understand that I still need all the pieces to come together correctly. Still might just use my stock 4V open heads but get them cleaned up.

2) If you are moving , does that mean YOU DON'T have space/time or just knowledge to build yourself?  Also what does this mean,  "I'm not interested in paying a higher price because I have to go through that shop to have said guy build the engine."

I have the space but neither the time or know how to rebuild myself. I'm more interested in finding the right machine shop that knows what they are doing and is going to do what they say. I'd prefer to use a place that has a dyno to break the motor in on.
The not being interested in paying a higher price deal is if I wanted to use this engine builder I'd have to do it through this specific shop (almost like a 3rd party deal) and it would cost me more to do that vs just going to the builder directly. Problem is this build works specifically for said shop.  

All I can say is USE CARE and "vet these people" with discussions with satisfied SEEN invoices/builds !!   A "well known" HIGHLY promoted shop in MI "proved to be incompetent" with a recent AMC build for a friend.  He WAS TOLD , may not want to use wrenchworks BUT HE did and engine out three times, OTHERS found the problem (actually problems) !!

Good luck and consider guys that do clevelands all the time, Tommy/Jimmy H. etc etc  (they are pretty close)  Hell I drove a motor to CA once "because that was the guy to do it"

Mark
P.S.  I grew up in Mont Co , lived in Telford/Lansdale etc etc  BUT have no shop suggestions.   I use 3 machine shops here in MI , depending on if a Cleveland, FE or Turbo motor - then assemble in the winter.   (cars in summer/motors in winter)

I know from talking to enough people that there are shops that know engines and there are shops that know Cleveland's.
I thought I had a good shop picked out but the guy just doesn't seem to want to get back to me with a quote. I spoke to him twice and he said he was going to send it the next day...2 days later I still don't have it. This is not the kind of guy I want to do business with. So I figured I'd come here and see who builds a good Cleveland and how far are they from me?

(05-23-2018, 07:36 PM)Treyplus20 Wrote: That'll lead me to my next mission, finding the damned high beam switch. Unless it was covered by the carpet during a restoration process I can't find the damned floor button.

Isn't that it under the emergency brake pedal , that is stuck down??

Mark
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#7
(05-23-2018, 07:05 PM)Treyplus20 Wrote: I'm thinking maybe high-beam since I don't have a floor button, but with the head lights on I don't notice a difference between the illumination when it's pushed in or pulled out.


[Image: Driver_arrow.jpg]

I think the button hiding behind the parking brake is your high beams.

'Mike'
73 Convertible - 351C/4V CC heads/4bolt/forged flat tops/comp 270/rhodes/mallory unilite/tri-power/hookers/glasspacks/c6/3.50 limited slip/Gear Vendors/Global West sub frames, strut rods and shelby style traction bars/ Rear sway bar/tilt steering (not original)

Pics of modifications included in:
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#8
It is easy to tell if the car came with air or not the firewall is different in several places.
Air cars do not have a cowl opening coming into the passenger compartment on the drivers side only on passenger side into heater air box.
The pictures below show a not air firewall without the key hole opening for air conditioner lines to pass through and different hole locations for the heater core. The heater boxes are totally different and there is a formed dome cover welded into the firewall just outside the engine compartment to clear the blower motor on a non air car.
The chrome knobs are for the air vents for sure.
I also think your high beam button is there just hidden under the emergency brake pedal or parking brake pedal. The parking brake pedal assembly is another one of those parts on the car that has phosphate coating to prevent sticking except for a section of the foot pedal that is painted semi gloss black. All of them are the same not dependent on PB or manual six or eight. I redid the phosphate on the brake and also the gas pedal which is also phosphate.
If you are going to did into all of the interior I would just go ahead and remove the entire dash much easier to work on.
A big word of caution. The cowl is the most rust prone area on these cars. It was not dependent on having salt on the roads more how much the car was washed with a hose feeding the rust all the time. A California or desert car can have a rusted out cowl. They could not paint inside there and the workers did a sorry job with the sealer application. So you get rust out on each end of the cowl and then the water runs in passenger compartment and rusts out the floors. Cowl replacement is one of the most difficult panels to replace but can be done and is available. Mice and critters love to build nests in there and store food so also holds moisture. You can block them from entering when you rebuild by putting screens under the cowl vents, over the entry of air from the cowl to the heater box and by putting stainless steel scrubber pads in the two cowl drains under the front fenders, pics of screens below.
David

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When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
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#9
Wow, thanks for all the info. I did find the dimmer switch under the e-brake. I'd seen it before but assumed it was a buffer or something to keep the e-brake from tearing up the carpet since it was locked solid and the position seemed off but once I got down there I figured it out. I'm going to replace the e-brake assembly, it's torn up and disconnected, guess the PO decided he didn't need it.

The car has AC, just missing the compressor, so I'm guessing aftermarket air was added at some point but it's in pieces and non-functioning. It'll all probably come out and I'll replace it with a new kit from classicautoair.com or similar.
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