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What paint system did you go with?
I painted my 71 Corvette with BC\CC from PPG.  I started with PPG sealer then high build primer then the BC\CC.  It turned out pretty good for my first and only paint job.  I know thsat the chemicals in the clear are very bad for you and have read you should have a fresh air respirator tgo protect yourself.  I just used a 3M mask.  When I do the MACH I am considering enamel.  

Just wondering what most of you home garage painters use.
Type, brand, where you bought it, why you went with the system you did, etc...

1972 Mach 1 351 cj 4speed
"We confide in our strength, without boasting of it; we respect that of others, without fearing it."--Thomas Jefferson

Marhyde high build 2K primer
RM Diamont BC/CC paint

That's what my painter used on a daily basis, so he had mucho experience with it. Much better chance of an excellent outcome than something a guy has never worked with.

I cut in the doors, trunklid and hood. He did the rest of the cut in, assembled and adjusted the panels, touched up any of the bodywork he thought necessary and shot the final coats.

[+] 1 user Likes Hemikiller's post
PPG. DBC. Works great.


1971 Mach 1
408C Stroker
C4 w/3,000 stall
8.8" Rear w/3.73's
Disc brakes all way around.

[Image: 28ivsix.png]

[+] 1 user Likes turtle5353's post
PPG paint and clear. Shop line primer.

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- Mike
[+] 1 user Likes mach71351c's post
I've painted at least 10 whole cars and many partial cars in a make shift paint booth at home. I work for a body shop supply co. as the tech. / sales rep.for the last 15yrs. So I use axalta (DuPont) products for color and or clear. on bare metal I use 2580cr Zink chromate  epoxy. Evercoat  4:1 super build polyester is great for a very stable high build if that's what you are looking for.you need a 2.0 or so tip to spray it. If you can find hbbody products in your area hb 360 2:1 primer is what I have used for years. It goes on shiny (you can see everything) doesn't shrink like most cheaper primers as the build comes from high solid resin not talc. You can reduce it up to 30% and use it as a sealer. And it's reasonably priced. Yes I  love this stuff. Painting at home you are probably planning on sanding and polishing . A lot o 2:1 or high solid clears can be prone to solvent popping after 2 coats one option is base it clear it fix anything you don't  like  sand it and re clear it.  On solid colors I like the look of single stage, I used super jet black s/s on my 71. Plus s/s gives you a choice of what color over spray is all over your stuff. The activator in any product is the worst thing for you. If you use a cartridge respirator keep it sealed when not using it. They are rated at 20 hours . So sitting on your bench out of the bag is not a good plan. When I  paint stuff at home I plan on doing it twice, that way I'm not pissed when I  do it the 2nd time. If you Google www.brevardautopaint  I did both of those cars start to finish at home in a crappy closed in pole barn
[+] 1 user Likes keiths71's post
A couple of other things. Whatever brand you choose look at the tech sheets for out of dust times. A slow " baking clear "or some single stage can stay tacky too long to use at home. Special final tac rags for base coat like sontara e-4141 don't leave stuff behind on your base coat like cheap ones do. I make a lean to with screen cloth and run a sprinkler on it to contain over spray and odor. That makes a huge difference as far as nosey neighbors are concerned. Grounding the body will also help cut down on static electricity. I do it but don't really know how much it helps
[+] 1 user Likes keiths71's post
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