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What is this piece called?
#1
Above the windshield, but below the very top trim piece.  What's it called?  That's going to be a heckuva replate job.  

But thankfully, only this piece and the two rear power window bezels show this corrosion, although windshield-header-thing is easily 10x worse.

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#2
mine was not that bad   , i sanded and got some rust converter ,then found some silver paint at orally's that  looked like stainless .it has matched very well and has lasted for 3+ years and no one has notesed
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#3
In Ford speak...

Moulding - windshield garnish - upper

PT# D1ZZ-7603606-A

It's a convertble specific part and also is the same part as 71-73 Cougar.


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#4
Someone else can chime in here also but I am pretty sure that piece was NOT chrome plated as it would reflect into the drivers vision. I think it was a dull metal appearance when new.

Jeff
1972 Q Code Convertible
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#5
That makes perfect sense.  A matte finish, then.
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#6
runninpony 
Mine is chrome, of course, LOL!

71-73 Mustangs never die, they just go faster!
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#7
The finish on it is satin chrome. This can be accomplished by glass bead after copper plate before nickel / chrome. Might just go with nickel. The chrome just gives it a deeper shine than the nickel.
I cleaned mine in my molasses tank and just sprayed with matt clear to prevent rust again.
The rust is usually caused by rain water or wash water coming in the car under the stainless trim on outside. There is a foam seal between stainless and the windshield frame. It turns to sticky slime over time and probably needs replacing.
Pull the visor brackets off then the inside header and there is I think 5 nuts inside the windshield frame that holds the stainless on. Be sure and spray with penetrating oil. It is easy to break the studs or twist the brackets loose from the stainless. Good time to buff the scratches off it caused by dirt between rubber seal and the SS.
Her is pic of the stainless you can see about what thickness of closed cell foam to get. Also can put a strip of 3-M caulk to help seal it up. I just get the foam tape a home supply as long a closed cell will not let water get in.
You cannot get the side stainless off unless you unbolt fender. There is a washer head Phillips at the bottom of the stainless.
The molasses does a great job of taking rust off and does not hurt the chrome. It is slow. I have a tank deep enough now so whole part is in at one shot.
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When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
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#8
Ok, now I’ve got to learn more about this molasses soak. Anything that uses less harsh chemicals on these old parts, I’m for.

Although, after those photos, I’m afraid to see the underside of the piece we’re talking about. In any case, adding “closed cell foam” to the shopping list.

But! *This post* is exactly why these forums are so essential to enthusiasts: “insider tips” from folks who’ve been there, done that are invaluable.
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#9
There are several threads about the molasses for rust removal. A quick note. You get the liquid molasses at your local farm feed store. It costs between $18.00 to $20.00 for 5 gallons. You mix 9 parts water with one part molasses so a 5 gallon bucket gets you 50 gallons of solution. It has mild acids in it. It does wear out so you do have to dump it but not a hazardous chemical. Works great on chrome wheels like magnum 500. If you search the form there are lots of pictures of items done.
It is slow usually couple weeks will clean about anything. Maybe take out after one week and brush and put back in. Works on cast iron also but do not put aluminum in it will eat it up. And we eat this stuff.
Other members use vinegar to do the same thing. You could probably use tomato juice, lol.
You can pick up on of the bulk chemical containers for $50.00 usually and cut the top out. I have this one outside the garage. It will get mold on it also I scoop off occasionally. I need to dump mine now.
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When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
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