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What I learned installing a t-5 in my 1971 mustang.
#1
What I learned installing a t-5 into my 1971 mustang.

My car came equipped with a manual transmission. That made the swap easier. Now some things to keep in mind. With the 289, 302, and 351 most of the bellhousings will have the same bolt pattern. if you choose to use the late model aluminum bellhousing it will dictate several parts. It will require you to use a 157 tooth flywheel. A 5.0 late model starter as well, and the block saver plate from the late model car.

Flywheels. There are at least several flywheels that will bolt up to your motor. What you need to know. How many teeth the flywheel has and counterbalance.

157 tooth 0 balance used on 6 cyl motors.
157 tooth 28.5 oz balance used on early 289, 302, 351
157 tooth 50 oz balance used on late model 302 and 351.
164 tooth 28.5 oz balance flywheels,
164 tooth 50 oz balance flywheels.

DO NOT use the wrong counter balance for you engine!

Now what is important about your flywheel size it that it will dictate which pressure plate and clutch you can use. The largest size clutch you can install on the 157 tooth is a 10.5 inch clutch, but it must be drilled for the 10.5. That is most often on the late model 5.0 50oz flywheel. If you have an early 157 tooth stock flywheel it will be drilled for a 10 inch clutch. The 164 tooth flywheel accepts the 11 inch clutch. Which is why it was used on the larger displacement engines.

There are several manufactures who make a 157 tooth 28.5 oz flywheel that will accept either bolt pattern. So you can install either a 10 or 10.5 inch clutch and pressure plate. This will allow you to go with a late model clutch on an early engine.

Now if you decide you want the larger flywheel and 11 inch clutch that will require you to use the larger bellhousing. The larger bellhousings are most oftentimes in the early cars and are cast iron. Early cars with aluminum bellhousings will not fit the larger flywheel. The stock t-5 transmission bellhousings are too small for the 164 tooth flywheel. Several aftermarket bellhousings are available that will work with the larger flywheel clutch combination.

So by now you will need to choose which flywheel clutch and pressure plate combination. I used the latemodel bellhousing that came with the t-5 and a stock early model 157 flywheel 28.5 oz. I installed a 10 inch three finger pressure plate. I would have liked to go with the larger 10.5 inch late model clutch with a diaphragm pressure plate but the flywheel was not drilled for it. I did this for economic reasons. It was by far the cheapest solution.

Now to get your clutch linkage to work there are two methods that work with the late model bellhousing. One is a special made clutch cable. You can find them on many webpages. Expect to pay between 250 to 300. The cheap route is an adaptor for about $30. It's a block of steel 1”X1” and allows you to relocate the pivot point for the z bar. I went that route. It was easy to do.

So here was my list of parts.


Used t-5 $500
New old stock 157 tooth 28.5 oz flywheel $100
Pivot point adaptor block $40
Clutch pressure plate throwout bearing 10". $200
Pilot bearing $10
Transmission cross brace. $130
5.0 starter $50
5.0 block saver plate $50
New flywheel bolts $20

I did this swap while also swapping the stock 6 cyl for a 351c 2v. The 6 cyl z-bar worked fine but I also rebuilt it with new bushing kit. The driveshaft and shifter were reused.

Just keep in mind the bellhousing will dictate flywheel size and flywheel will dictate clutch options.

Many of my decisions were because of cost. All in was around $1,200.00

I hope you find this helpful if your considering the swap.









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#2
Good post! Thanks for sharing.

[Image: 1z21rv4.png]

Mike

"If I were you...... I´d rather be me."  Tongue

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#3
Nice job. Thanks for posting.

- Mike
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#4
[Image: a3e7a12e71a4eabd9ea906a991a0f8b5.jpg]


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#5
[quote pid='285697' dateline='1482606230']
Great info.   I'm going to be swapping my FMX out for a T5 and was starting to plan it all out. I know I  need plenty of other stuff but this will save me many headaches later on. 
[/quote]
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#6
If your going from automatic to standard there is other stuff you will need. The cable might be the way to go over the z-bar.


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#7
[Image: 333842947f312a16694f793e7ae5a735.jpg]


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#8
(04-09-2017, 11:54 AM)Billyillyilly Wrote: [quote pid='285697' dateline='1482606230']
Great info.   I'm going to be swapping my FMX out for a T5 and was starting to plan it all out. I know I  need plenty of other stuff but this will save me many headaches later on. 

[/quote]

I did the same thing with good results. I went with the cable clutch. The hurdles were getting the right clutch fork and I had to shorten the driveshaft. Everything else was pretty much bolt on. Good luck.
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#9
(07-25-2017, 08:07 PM)Tonyjustin Wrote: I did the same thing with good results. I went with the cable clutch. The hurdles were getting the right clutch fork and I had to shorten the driveshaft. Everything else was pretty much bolt on. Good luck
What did you get for a clutch fork?

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#10
(07-28-2017, 08:26 PM)computercarguy Wrote:
(07-25-2017, 08:07 PM)Tonyjustin Wrote: I did the same thing with good results. I went with the cable clutch. The hurdles were getting the right clutch fork and I had to shorten the driveshaft. Everything else was pretty much bolt on. Good luck
What did you get for a clutch fork?


Do you need one for a 1971 or a late model 5 speed?


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