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What I learned converting to power front disk brakes.
Things I learned converting my 1971 mustang from manual drum to power front disk brakes.

I choose to go with a stock front disk brake setup. So I purchased a used set used front spindles from a power disk car. The setup came with the disks, calipers, spindles, master cylinder, proportion valve, and power booster.

Here are the new parts I purchased.
Rubber brake hoses
Rebuilt calipers
Bearing seals
Brake pads
And a rebuilt brake booster

Now here is what I learned. The manual drum brake car has several more different parts from the power front disk car. The first one I learned about is the brake lines. The location of the steel lines almost requires you to purchase new lines. My suggestion is go ahead and put that purchase in your budget. Again the location of the brake hoses to the calipers makes this a difficult if not impossible, but when you change the master cylinder and and the new proportioning valve you will be glad you have the hard line kit.

Parts I purchased later:

Disk Brake pedal
Stainless hard line kit

Next fun bit of hardware. The manual drum car uses a different brake pedal for the power assisted disk brake car. The leverage used is different and the master cylinder mounts higher on the firewall. I located one on eBay and sold my other. Not a bad exchange.

Now that I have brought up the firewall, you will need to relocate the hole the master cylinder bolts to. It's not too bad of a job and diagrams are one the web. The way the power booster mounts is different from the manual brake master cyl.

Now once you relocate the hole, charge the brake pedal, and run new hard lines and mount the new proportioning valve. The rest is a snap. Knock your ball joints loose replace the spindle, and from there is is like a brake job.

It did take me a while to stop the brake fluid leaks from the new hard lines. I ran stainless steel and they are a pain to stop from leaking. But once that was stopped the brakes work like a champ.

I know there are other kits and other disk conversions, but this was the rout I went. Best of luck. I will try to add some photos.

I did find a really good deal on the power booster from O'Reilly on line. It is not the correct part for a concourse restoration but it was only $100.00 and shipped free to my local store.

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Looks good. I did the same swap on my manual drum brake car, but I did not go with the power brakes yet. I am still running the manual disc brakes now. I have the brackets, pedal, master and booster still in the garage. Maybe someday I will get to it!! I got all my parts off a 72 convertible.
The hard lines from the drums will work down at the calipers with a little tweaking. I am planning on swapping all my stuff to power disc later down the road, so I will end up going the route you did with new lines made for power brakes.
Nice job and keep up the good work!! Heres what mine looked like installed!

[Image: av5rn6.jpg]
[Image: 1fk3zt.jpg]


1971 Mach 1
408C Stroker
C4 w/3,000 stall
8.8" Rear w/3.73's
Disc brakes all way around.

[Image: 28ivsix.png]

[+] 1 user Likes turtle5353's post
Very nice!

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[Image: 6ba74ec6afb9f126ecf9c4c096c6dd46.jpg]

Ss Brake lines and old lines

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Good write up and lessons learned for others. Even better safety upgrade.

72 Mach 1 H-Code (Concourse driven restoration)
67 S-Code Factory GT with 4-Spd

68 Mercury Cyclone (Pro-Street project)
Pastorpat, I too have done this dance. It has been posted on before, but it seems you have a pretty good handle on it from your own experience.
The swap from drums to discs isn't that hard. In my case I went with SSBC Kelsey-Hayse style direct replacement discs so I didn't have to swap spindles. I too swapped out the old lines for a pre-bent SS set, but as I originally did not have a booster, I used the drum brake set of lines. While at it, I replaced the rears as well with SS.
Just this year, I finally added the power booster,( I would definitely recommend an ORIGINAL style booster) but as you note, the position is totally different. I have a manual trans car, so I actually had to re-drill and add a new pin to the pedal as used manual pedals are practically impossible to find. At this time, I installed ball bearing pivots for the clutch pedal shaft. Mustang Steve sells a kit for this if anyone else is going this route. Now, as I had to remove the entire pedal hangar, the trick was to remove the steering column, makes life soooo much easier.
On the master cylinder, reworked lines and fittings were needed as in my case, I used a separate rear brake bias control, not a combo distribution block. The other issue I found was as my original SSBC M/C was for non power disc / drums, is a 1" bore. I believe a 15/16" is required for a power booster set-up. I find my brakes a bit sharp, but manageable. Not found a 15/16" M/C yet though. All the suppliers seem to only have 1" ones. Hmmmm!.
Assuming your car is an auto trans, makes life so much easier on a swap like this (getting parts). If anyone is going to replace the plastic pivot bushings with clutch shaft ball bearings, the bracket must be removed. With the steering column out, replace the rubber seal to the fire-wall and there is a thin metal plate with 4 bosses welded on, which will need to be drilled out for the new mount bolts. If this plate is not replaced, it will alter the position of the brake pedal bracket and column. I've read where others didn't put it back in and wondered why they had problems. Just a thought.
You probably are past this, but it may help others. Enjoy your new stopping power!!
[+] 1 user Likes Stanglover's post
Good info. I did the same thing on a 71 a sports roof using a 72 Grandé parts car.

I picked up a rebuilt booster/ MC combo off of rockauto.com for a very reasonable price similar to you....
[+] 1 user Likes mjlan's post
mjlan;286107 Wrote:Good info. I did the same thing on a 71 a sports roof using a 72 Grandé parts car.

I picked up a rebuilt booster/ MC combo off of rockauto.com for a very reasonable price similar to you....

Yes, the original booster, reman or original style is the only choice in my humble opinion. I tried one of those so-called direct fit replacement "things" that was supposed to fit right where the manual M/C was located. Yeah right, not a chance on a 71-73. Long story, not going into that here, just DON'T BUY that crap!
[+] 1 user Likes Stanglover's post
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