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What did you do to your car today?
#31
Received a couple of boxes from Ohio Mustang. But have not even had a chance to open them yet. Tonight worked on getting the under dash and inside firewall area painted, what a pita, but its painted. now need to get the dash assembly sprayed and then can start the reassembly of the complete dash.
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#32
After pulling the axles, I spent most of my time trying to heat up the garage with the propane heater. Once it was warm enough, I sanded the axles and tried to figure out how to remove the wheel bearings. Going to take the axles and the rear drums to the mechanic to see if the diameter of the drum is still within specs. Haven't used the brakes in 15 years, thought it might be a good idea. Spray painted the rear drum backing plates. Through them in front of the heater and boy do they dry fast...

1973 Mach 1 - Medium Bright Yellow - (in restoration mode)
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#33
You can get the wheel bearing off by using a carbide cutoff wheel, cut the outer case on the bearing, 180 apart then remove it, the bearings will fall out of the cage, cut the cage to expose the inner chase.

Use a cutoff wheel and cut the bearing retainer ring half way to the axle do not cut through it, use a large screw driver in the slot you cut and strike it with a hammer, it will split. Remove it.

Do the same for the bearing chase score it with the cutoff wheel do not cut through it, use the screwdriver and hammer in the same way the inner race will crack, remove it.

The reason you do all this is to protect the machined part of the axle shaft you cannot score or damage that area in any way.

Next run you finger nail around the bearing area and where the axle seal rides on.

Make sure it's smooth no gouges. If it's very rusty and pitted around the seal, you will need replacement axles.

To install new bearings you will need a shop press, or you can use a pipe that goes around the axle shaft and is small enough to only sit on the inner bearing race. Then you hammer a new bearing on until it seats 100%, check it's rotation once installed to make sure it's not damaged.
Then do the same thing for the bearing retainer ring.

Make sure before you start that the axle bolt plate is installed first before you install the bearing.

To install a new seal first you can use the edge of the axle spline side insert it into the axle just behind the rubber seal and pry the old seal out with the axle.

To install the new seal use a seal driver and hammer it in carefully make sure it goes in straight and it does not have to bottom out all the way go easy to much hammering will damage it.
Take the time to inspect the axle splines make sure nothing is twisted

Also inspect the yoke seal for leaks, try the wiggle the yoke around and check for any play in the axle, might be time for a pinion and ring gar service.
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#34
Thanks for the feedback. I'm going to see what the mechanic charges and get back with you on the wheel bearings.

Thanks again.

1973 Mach 1 - Medium Bright Yellow - (in restoration mode)
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#35
Well, here is from last night and so far today. Working to remove some little "problem" areas in trunk drop offs. Doing passenger now. Here is pic of new panel, custom cut to old dimentions and part I removed. The other pic is where it came out. Notice the thin, rusted bottom. Now that is removed and ready for custom fabbed peice. I just need to custom fab that peice up.

Oh, BTW, I have never done any body work in my life...LOL. If somebody sees me doing something stupid, please feel free to bonk me in the head and correct me... Big Grin


Attached Files Thumbnail(s)
               

1972 Fastback
Zinc Yellow / Black Trim

2006 GT Coupe - Mach 1 Tribute
Screaming Yellow / Black Trim


Member
Central Missouri Mustang & Ford Club
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#36
Pulled the engine on my 71 mach yesterday and tore down block. Now to order new rings and bearings. Fried engine at the strip last day of racing.
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#37
I did final polish on trunk lid and installed the rear spoiler. I wasted the rest of the day searching salvage yards for a front left fender extension.
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#38
Replaced the starter and solenoid. The old starter would slip when trying to get the engine to turn over and was making it hard to get it to start. With the new one in it starts like a champ. Got a manual choke cable coming in the mail as well. Should be able to keep it running and let it idle once we get that on. Right now you have to control the butterfly by hand to keep it running.

'73 "Q-Code" Mach 1
[Image: Mt7Cz.png]
|351C-4V|Holley 600CFM|Edelbrock Manifold|Unknown Cam|10:1 Pistons|Hooker Longtubes|Glasspacks|C4 Auto|Unknown Gears|

Cold Start And Run Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kqr4NVCHxBk
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#39
Wahoo got my March serpentine system on and aligned and my distributor in and plug wires installed Big Grin


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#40
Does 'being stuck in traffic wishing I was driving my Mach 1' count? Big Grin

Eric

[Image: mach1sig2.gif]
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