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What are the safest jack points?
#1
So, I bought my '71 vert last fall and I haven't had reason to jack it up until now. I'm wondering what are the safest points for the jack to lift the car and to place the jack stands. If someone can recommend safe lift and jack points for front and rear, I'd greatly appreciate it.
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#2
Im sure opinions will vary somewhat on this,but this is what I do on my mach1. In the rear I put the jack under the pumpkin of the rearend and jack it up there and place my jack stands under the axle tubes near the leaf springs. in the font I do one side at a time and jack under the frame box and and place the jack stands under the frame around where the door and fender meet.

Kevin

1971 Mach 1
408C Stroker
C4 w/3,000 stall
8.8" Rear w/3.73's
Disc brakes all way around.

https://youtu.be/SoW1fhaFPzY  Burn Out Video. 

[Image: 044.jpg]
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#3
I do the same as turtle5353. I have subframe connectors so up front I place the jack stands where they meet the frame. I can use the subframe connectors as a jacking point too.

'Mike'
73 Convertible - 351C/4V CC heads/4bolt/forged flat tops/comp 270/rhodes/mallory unilite/tri-power/hookers/glasspacks/c6/3.50 limited slip/Gear Vendors/Global West sub frames, strut rods and shelby style traction bars/ Rear sway bar/tilt steering (not original)

Pics of modifications included in:
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#4
turtle5353;165849 Wrote:Im sure opinions will vary somewhat on this,but this is what I do on my mach1.
I'd be really disappointed if they didn't. Wink

Quote:In the rear I put the jack under the pumpkin of the rearend and jack it up there

Ok. this was my initial inclination for the rear end, but I wasn't sure whether or not it was safe to jack the car up from the pumpkin.
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#5
The pinch welds between the front fender and door openings are there for roadside jacking. As the car is raised from one of these points, some of the weight actually transfers to the side and rearward, somewhat reducing the load on the jack (and jacking point). The jack stands should be placed under the front frame rails, close to the torque boxes or under the shock towers if possible.

The rear axle is best... providing you don't have to actually work on the suspension or rear axle itself. If that's the case, place the jack stands under the frame rails close to the torque boxes if possible.

I also have sub-frame connectors, and they work great as well.

If I'm completely off here, feel free to chime in - this is what I've been advised to do since the '80s.

Eric

[Image: mach1sig2.gif]
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#6
It is okay to jack the car up from the pumpkin, but I would suggest immediately lowering it onto jack stands that are positioned close the the leaf springs pads.

Rear end housings can bend and our cars have lighter duty tubes than some. Leaving the rear of the car on a jack is both unsafe and potentially can cause some "crowning" of the rear end housing which causes positive caster of the rear end.

[Image: 1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png]

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!
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#7
Jeff73Mach1;165859 Wrote:It is okay to jack the car up from the pumpkin, but I would suggest immediately lowering it onto jack stands that are positioned close the the leaf springs pads.

Rear end housings can bend and our cars have lighter duty tubes than some. Leaving the rear of the car on a jack is both unsafe and potentially can cause some "crowning" of the rear end housing which causes positive caster of the rear end.

Definitely not planning to leave it on the jack any longer than is required to get it down onto the stands.
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#8
just FYI the original jack points on our cars are iffy at best, biggest reason 40 years of rust.
the first time i tried to jack up my car using the original scissor jack on the correct jack point, i crushed my rocker panel.

so yhea the original jack points can not be a good thing.

i use my pumpkin as a jack point, lift up the rear then install 2 jack stands right on the axle next to the shock mounts by the leaf springs.

on the front end i jack using the Strut rod cross memember behind the radiator infront of the engine(watch don't hang on the harmonic balancer, once jacked up i put jack stands under the frame rails at the weld between the rails and the strut rod cross member this is due to clearance giving me more access under the car.

i had the car jacked like i describe for years with no problems, no door sag.

another good spot is on the frame rails where the torque boxes are...but that limited me installing and working on larger areas and parts.
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#9
Jeff73Mach1;165859 Wrote:It is okay to jack the car up from the pumpkin, but I would suggest immediately lowering it onto jack stands that are positioned close the the leaf springs pads.

Rear end housings can bend and our cars have lighter duty tubes than some. Leaving the rear of the car on a jack is both unsafe and potentially can cause some "crowning" of the rear end housing which causes positive caster of the rear end.

Yes - I meant to add that part about placing the jack stands soon after getting it in the air.

I hadn't really given much thought to any 'crowning' since the tubes and housing (on 9" axles) are cast as one. I figured they were pretty much bulletproof.

Eric

[Image: mach1sig2.gif]
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#10
the rear axle supports the car so it can take it... the rear axle isn't cast as one piece its actually welded together and made of i think 4 or 5 pieces.
you get pin hole leaks from the crappy factory welds on some of them.
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