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Well-known facts...that are wrong!
Over the years I have run into plenty of "experts" that repeat and claim certain common knowledge that is well-known and generally accepted as "fact", even though it is erroneous.

For example:
How many times have you heard someone make the claim that the "W" in motor oil ( for instance: 20W-50) means "weight"? Sounds logical, but it is incorrect.
It really stands for "winter", designating that the oil is formulated to be used in "winter driving conditions".
Some "experts" will argue thier incorrect "facts" to the point of getting nasty!

There are plenty examples of this around...who has some more?
I found this on Google.

"The W or winter number is important for low temperature performance. Referring to the J300 table, to list a multi-viscosity oil as a 10W the Cranking (cP) max at temperature of -25C (-13F) can not be higher than 7000 and the Pumping (cP) max with no yield stress at temperature of -30C (-22F) can not be higher than 60,000. As you can see from the table, the lower the W number the lower the Cranking (cP) at lower temperatures. This means that when your engine is cold the lower the W number the easier the oil will flow."

1972 Mustang convertible run_horse  
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High octane gas makes every car run better and get better mileage, no matter what (how low) the compression is.

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
the M in 351M is for modified or midland.

73 Convertible - 351C/4V CC heads/4bolt/forged flat tops/comp 270/rhodes/mallory unilite/tri-power/hookers/glasspacks/c6/3.50 limited slip/Gear Vendors/Global West sub frames, strut rods and shelby style traction bars/ Rear sway bar/tilt steering (not original)

Pics of modifications included in:
OK, if not "modified", what is the "m" in 351M designating?
Kit Sullivan;204283 Wrote:OK, if not "modified", what is the "m" in 351M designating?

Mistake! Wink

Rusty, a 1973 Mach 1, needs a lot of work.
Billy, a 1976 Ford Bronco, also needs a lot of work.
El Guapo, a 1986 F150, frame-off Resto-Mod.
Bubba, my 1994 F150, daily driver
Formerly, a 1973 Ford Mustang Coupe - a work in progress, then a car-b-qued banana.
Tbe "M" stands for "Michigan", as in "Michigan Casting Center", the foundry where the blocks were made.
Kit Sullivan;204286 Wrote:Tbe "M" stands for "Michigan", as in "Michigan Casting Center", the foundry where the blocks were made.

Dang, I was convinced it stood for "Much, More, Macho", learn something every day.


M code 71 Mach 1, 351 4V Cleveland, Ram Air (not factory), C6 Trans, 3.5 rear
if its just general wrong facts.How about the old you can see the great wall of china from space. You cannot.

He has all the vices I admire and none of the virtues I despise
All wrong:

M-codes are Boss 351s.
Stunt drivers wrecked four 302 Mustangs during the shooting of Diamonds are Forever.
All Mach 1s have NACA/NASA hoods.
Eleanor was a 1973 Mustang with a 1971 front end.
Eleanor was a 1971 Mustang with a 1972 hood.
Eleanor was a 1971 Mustang with 1973 fenders and bumper.
Cowl rot is overrated.
You can put a Ford 400 block in a Mustang with no modifications because it's just a tall-deck 351C.
Ford "400M"
Factory-installed, 1973 date-coded parts will not be found in a July 1972 build for the 1972 model year.
All NACA/NASA hoods are Ram Air hoods.
All NACA/NASA hoods have tu-tone paint.
All NACA/NASA hoods are supposed to have twist locks.
The bright trim on the driprails and around the windows are supposed to be high-polished and shine like chrome to be factory correct.

And the kicker:
"Just buy the car and worry about ____ later. ____ won't be that hard to fix."


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How to buy a '71-73 Mustang:
Rule #1: Assume all classic car sellers are guilty until proven innocent.
Rule #2: No classic car dealer is ever innocent; thus, they are all guilty.
Rule #3: Buy from trustworthy people: Fellow forum members. Visit 7173Mustang's For Sale forum.
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