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Welding strut rod cross member
#11
(01-03-2018, 01:07 PM)Hemikiller Wrote: My 71 was subject to the recall and has extra beads along the mounting flanges.

1/2" holes should be fine. As suggested, get some scrap of the same gauge and do a few practice runs.

Definitely. I will have enough scrap metal on the old strut cross member.

        [Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes
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#12
Can someone measure the distance from the engine cross member or from the stabilizer bar bracket to the strut cross member?

        [Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes
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#13
(01-03-2018, 01:51 PM)tony-muscle Wrote: Can someone measure the distance from the engine cross member or from the stabilizer bar bracket to the strut cross member?

I could take measurements this weekend, but I thought it aligns with the front of the frame rail box and has an alignment hole on the bottom.  Look at the post of the weld detail.  One tab from the cross member goes across the front of the frame rail( 2 welds),  one wraps under the frame rail(4 welds), and one is folded back 90 degrees to run along the frame rail toward the firewall(4 welds).

Did I miss something?

kcmash
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#14
(01-03-2018, 09:40 PM)kcmash Wrote:
(01-03-2018, 01:51 PM)tony-muscle Wrote: Can someone measure the distance from the engine cross member or from the stabilizer bar bracket to the strut cross member?

I could take measurements this weekend, but I thought it aligns with the front of the frame rail box and has an alignment hole on the bottom.  Look at the post of the weld detail.  One tab from the cross member goes across the front of the frame rail( 2 welds),  one wraps under the frame rail(4 welds), and one is folded back 90 degrees to run along the frame rail toward the firewall(4 welds).

Did I miss something?

kcmash

Yes, but I will have to make sure that the front of the frame rail is straight once I remove the cross member. I just wanted one more measurement point. I see that the oval hole is one of the measurement points from the frame diagram - I will have to try mesuring.

        [Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes
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#15
Finally got to weld the strut rod cross member. The straight measurements from the floor pan rail to the oval holes were the same, while the diagonal measurements were off by 1/2". I think this is not terrible. I welded the cross member in place with a very slight offset of the oval holes to partially compensate for this deviation. As a note, the tabs of the repro cross member are of different width, which threw me off for a while since I was double checking straightness measuring the distance from the stabilizer bar brackets to the edge of the cross member tab. Once I figured out that the tabs were not equal I measured to the oval holes.
As you can see the passenger side front rail is dented and the radiator cross member is not straight. I didn't feel that the radiator cross member was a critical element to be straight and didn't have the energy/time to replace it so I left it as it was. I drove the car as this for three years with no issues. I tested the fit of the radiator support brackets and it required a bit of persuasion on the radiator cross member side. You can also see that the bottom of the panel behind the headlights is dented and poorly repaired. I cleaned this all before the RustBullet coats. There was some surface rust on the passenger side, but now is all clean.
I practiced welding and settings on the old cross member to assure penetration. In total there are 11 plug welds per end so I expect it to be okay. I made the plug welds between 1/2" and 3/8" in diameter to be able to fit the plug welds per the weldment book.

A picture of how it looked before I started:
[Image: 20170920_231806.jpg]

These pictures are after the welds were ground and the surrounding sheetmetal was prepped for paint. Painting is tomorrow.
[Image: 20180217_130615.jpg]

[Image: 20180217_130619.jpg]

[Image: 20180217_130611.jpg]

        [Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes
[+] 1 user Likes tony-muscle's post
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