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Water Temp sender in water pump - 351C
#1
Hey guys, this seems like a dumb question, but I've wasted a bunch of time on this little thing so figured I'd try and waste your time as well.

I'm trying to add a second temp sender on my 351C. The first one in the stock location is currently being used for the electric fan. So I need a 2nd location for the actual gauge. There is an inlet is currently capped on the water pump itself just below the heater connection. Seems like a logical choice but the sender doesn't fit in that spot. Bought a bunch of adapters locally and online and they are all the wrong size. Does someone know what adapter I need to use to get the stock sender in that location? 

Sorry to waste time on such a little thing, but been screwing around with this for a couple weeks now and just want to get this done as it's holding up a bunch of other stuff for me so thought I'd ask. 

Thanks
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#2
(05-25-2019, 09:39 PM)TheDude Wrote: Hey guys, this seems like a dumb question, but I've wasted a bunch of time on this little thing so figured I'd try and waste your time as well.

I'm trying to add a second temp sender on my 351C. The first one in the stock location is currently being used for the electric fan. So I need a 2nd location for the actual gauge. There is an inlet is currently capped on the water pump itself just below the heater connection. Seems like a logical choice but the sender doesn't fit in that spot. Bought a bunch of adapters locally and online and they are all the wrong size. Does someone know what adapter I need to use to get the stock sender in that location? 

Sorry to waste time on such a little thing, but been screwing around with this for a couple weeks now and just want to get this done as it's holding up a bunch of other stuff for me so thought I'd ask. 

Thanks

You might want to conside finding 1974 - 1976 FORD CAR TRUCK 351M 400 THERMOSTAT HOUSING D5AZ-8592-A. It will fit a 351C and has threaded ports for such things as a temp sender or PVS vacum switch. Best to put your temp sensor as close to your thermostat as possible.

[Image: 1974-1976-FORD-CAR-TRUCK-351-M-400-THERM...-A-NOS.jpg]

[Image: 20170309-120341x.jpg]
[+] 1 user Likes rackerm's post
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#3
The water pump pulls water out of the radiator and pumps it through the engine, so a temperature sensor at that location will give you the cooled water temperature, not the engine temperature.

Rackerm's solution is best.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#4
Thermostat housings from some 460s also have 2 threaded holes, but the are angled and may require upper hose modifications.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#5
Thanks for the feedback. I actually just installed a new aluminum housing and would like to keep it if I can. The pick you uploaded looks like it has a sender in the location I am talking about. Having trouble figuring out what thread that is for some reason or at least the couple of sending units I've had so far and all the adapters are different. 

[Image: 20170309-120341x.jpg]

I've seen a lot of people use these adapters to sit on the top radiator hose. Seems like people are generally happy with them, however it seems like it has the same issue of being on the wrong side of the thermostat and I'm nut a huge fan of having more places for things to leak. Thoughts on something like this?


[Image: 61yak-WRq-K5-L-SL1001.jpg]
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#6
You are correct, they're on the wrong side of the thermostat and will only start showing temperature after the thermostat opens. The water pump location at least has the heater bypass to show the temperature of the engine warming up, but, if you have the bypass plate and 351C thermostat it will just show the temperature after the coolant passes through the radiator after the thermostat opens.

I believe the plug on the side of the water pump is 3/8" pipe thread.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
[+] 1 user Likes Don C's post
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#7
Dude, I actually went thru this exercise recently since I wanted the factory temp gauge in addition to a "real" gauge. The factory sender was kept installed in its original location and the other npt connection on the water pump was occupied with the DVCV.

I ended up using a heater hose adapter from autometer. It needs a ground wire run to the engine and its placed in the hose going "to" the heater core. The return heater core hose was a few degrees cooler so doublecheck with an IR gun if not sure which hose is hotter.

Seems to work fine with the autometer temp gauge and the numbered reading matches what I was seeing with the factory gauge. Also nice in that it can be hidden under the frame support member so its not as noticeable as being in the radiator hose.

https://www.autometer.com/5-8-heater-hose-adapter.html


.jpg   heater_hose_adapter.jpg (Size: 23.33 KB / Downloads: 149)
[+] 2 users Like SteveO_71's post
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#8
Good solution.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
[+] 1 user Likes Don C's post
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#9
I like that option, but unfortunately I'm not running a heater at the moment. I'll look into swapping out the housing for the 351M style as that does look to be the cleanest options.

Thanks
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#10
You don't have to have a heater, just loop the heater hose from the outlet on the block to the inlet in the water pump and install the adapter in the looped hose.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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