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Volt gauge
#1
Hi,

Does anyone have experience with replacing the Amp.gauge to aftermarket volt gauge (center console/3 gauges)?

Best looking / combination / matching with the original gauges.

Rocketman can convert/rebuilt the gauges but its too expensive(shipping cost 2 times+converting the gauges)

Thanks,
Eddy
Tongue
  Reply
#2
Eddy-

email me, we can work out shipping using parcel post or 1st class, uninsured, etc.

Bob

Tachs, Voltmeters, Headlight kits, Wiper delays and more at
[Image: smlogo.jpg]
Rocketman's Classic Cougar (and Mustang) Innovations, LLC
  Reply
#3
I don't know what I would've done without Rocketman. I had my tach refurbished and it works better than it ever did stock as well as integrating with the EFI easily.

1971 Mustang fastback: 10.3:1 C90E 408W hydroller - CDAN4 EEC-V w/EDIS8, girdled, lowered and caged
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#4
I need to get off my ass and send mine into to Rocketman for the conversion.
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#5
I actually contemplated replacing the stock speedo and tach with Autometer units - it would've involved some serious butchering. The only other option was Dakota Digital, but way overpriced and looks like digital poo. Somehow I found Rocketman and was sorted out in no time - love the design of the stock gauges, they're beautiful!

Gonna send my fuel gauge out for recal in the next week or so, that's the last gauge that needs attention.

1971 Mustang fastback: 10.3:1 C90E 408W hydroller - CDAN4 EEC-V w/EDIS8, girdled, lowered and caged
  Reply
#6
TheRktmn;164392 Wrote:Eddy-

email me, we can work out shipping using parcel post or 1st class, uninsured, etc.

I didn't know you did this. I would have sent mine in with the tach.

Can you describe how the guage works after the conversion. The description on the web site isn't clear to me.

'Mike'
73 Convertible - 351C/4V CC heads/4bolt/forged flat tops/comp 270/rhodes/mallory unilite/tri-power/hookers/glasspacks/c6/3.50 limited slip/Gear Vendors/Global West sub frames, strut rods and shelby style traction bars/ Rear sway bar/tilt steering (not original)

Pics of modifications included in:
  Reply
#7
will e,
RCCI converts the amp meter to a volt meter with 2 wires to hook up. One goes to a switched 12 volt source and the other to ground. The two wires that originally were used for the amp meter are no longer needed. Only difference looking at the gauge is that the needle is all the way to the left now and when the ignition is on it swings to the center and slightly past center while charging. Its a pretty cool mod to use if you go to a one wire alternator and you get rid of the voltage regulator. As far as the internal mods to the gauge not sure how RCCI does that. The gauge looks exactly the same as the original
-jbojo


Attached Files Thumbnail(s)
   

-john
(jbojo)
351C 4V cc heads, 10.5 : 1 CR, 290 Herbert cam, Flat top forged pistons, forged connecting rods, Atomic efi,
C6 with Gear Vendor overdrive, 3.89 Tru Trac, Hooker Super Comp with 2 1/2" Pypes Exhaust.        

Some Mod pictures can be seen at:

  Reply
#8
Jbojo, thanks for the info. Do you have a shot of what it looks like when it is charging? And maybe another shot of it when you have the engine off, the lights on and it is discharging?

My alt meter doesn't work at all. When I converted to gauges I didn't understand the whole 'shunt' idea and was dumbfounded by the wiring diagram. I think at some point I may have hooked it up wrong and blow it. Hard to tell. I have tried several times to wire it to work and have had no luck.

So a better functioning gauge is preferable to a non-functioning gauge.

'Mike'
73 Convertible - 351C/4V CC heads/4bolt/forged flat tops/comp 270/rhodes/mallory unilite/tri-power/hookers/glasspacks/c6/3.50 limited slip/Gear Vendors/Global West sub frames, strut rods and shelby style traction bars/ Rear sway bar/tilt steering (not original)

Pics of modifications included in:
  Reply
#9
will e;165944 Wrote:Jbojo, thanks for the info. Do you have a shot of what it looks like when it is charging? And maybe another shot of it when you have the engine off, the lights on and it is discharging?

My alt meter doesn't work at all. When I converted to gauges I didn't understand the whole 'shunt' idea and was dumbfounded by the wiring diagram. I think at some point I may have hooked it up wrong and blow it. Hard to tell. I have tried several times to wire it to work and have had no luck.

So a better functioning gauge is preferable to a non-functioning gauge.

will e,
I can post pics this weekend when hopefully I have the motor running. If the motor isn't running I can fake it by using a battery charger. I'll post with just ignition on not running, ignition on with lights and engine on charging. This mod to the amp meter took me about 5 mins to wire up.
-jbojo

-john
(jbojo)
351C 4V cc heads, 10.5 : 1 CR, 290 Herbert cam, Flat top forged pistons, forged connecting rods, Atomic efi,
C6 with Gear Vendor overdrive, 3.89 Tru Trac, Hooker Super Comp with 2 1/2" Pypes Exhaust.        

Some Mod pictures can be seen at:

  Reply
#10
So overall it works for ya? I am running blind now.

'Mike'
73 Convertible - 351C/4V CC heads/4bolt/forged flat tops/comp 270/rhodes/mallory unilite/tri-power/hookers/glasspacks/c6/3.50 limited slip/Gear Vendors/Global West sub frames, strut rods and shelby style traction bars/ Rear sway bar/tilt steering (not original)

Pics of modifications included in:
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