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Vin questions.
#11
Here in N.C. that would throw all kind of red flags with the DOT. They have to come do an inspection of the VIN# and do a search if stolen. If there are no signs of MIG welding on the inner fenders then that is a huge flag waver for a stolen vehicle.
A Shelby locally that had been verified by the Shelby Cobra people was found to be a coupe made into a fastback big hack job for sure.


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
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David
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#12
So you have indicators that your car is stolen or vin swapped and you don't want to believe them so you accept a story with no evidence. This is not going to end well.

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"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!
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#13
(04-24-2019, 03:32 PM)Hemikiller Wrote: Clipping a car was a very common fix in the 60's and 70's. They'd go to the local scrapper and buy the section of the car they needed, slice, dice and voila! Car fixed. Since you have the fenders off, look around the aprons and rails for any fairly obvious welds or repairs that don't look quite factory. If you find them, you know what happened. I'd also look for stamping date codes on the sheetmetal inside the car. Those are very difficult to fake and can point to an approximate assembly date. Get a Marti report for the dash VIN and if those date codes and the options info on the report all jive, then it's probably pretty safe to say you have the correct VIN. If things don't match, say you have green paint on the interior metal, but the Marti report says the car was originally red, then you need to figure out your next steps.

Slice and dice. Also known as cut and shut here in the UK. The car would not be allowed on UK roads if it was a cut and shut. It would be sent to the crusher.

Steve
1971 Grandé
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#14
Dash VINs are very hard to replace or swap, which is why everyone is hinting at a front clip replacement. The screws/rivets are proprietary and extremely difficult to replicate.

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#15
(04-24-2019, 03:41 PM)Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs Wrote: Here in N.C. that would throw all kind of red flags with the DOT. They have to come do an inspection of the VIN# and do a search if stolen. If there are no signs of MIG welding on the inner fenders then that is a huge flag waver for a stolen vehicle.
A Shelby locally that had been verified by the Shelby Cobra people was found to be a coupe made into a fastback big hack job for sure.


Here in FL they don’t do inspections, they just take the title and search the vin for stolen records. I will look for welding inside the fender once I get it back off, I can also take the shock tower vin to the DMV and have them search it as well. The dash vin seems to match perfectly with what I have so I believe the clip was replaced but we shall see.


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#16
If I am correct the buck tag shows the car should have AC? The car doesn’t have any AC features so that also points me in the direction that the front clip was replaced?


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#17
(04-24-2019, 04:05 PM)Usafsac Wrote: If I am correct the buck tag shows the car should have AC? The car doesn’t have any AC features so that also points me in the direction that the front clip was replaced?
 
Stick your hand in the cowl through the exterior vents. There should be a "hat" on the passenger side cowl floor if it's a non-A/C car. AC cars will have a flat cowl floor with no hat. 

(04-24-2019, 03:54 PM)midlife Wrote: Dash VINs are very hard to replace or swap, which is why everyone is hinting at a front clip replacement.  The screws/rivets are proprietary and extremely difficult to replicate.

71-73 VINs are riveted to the upper trim panel of the dash, which pops right out with about ten screws. Some people would swap a dash around to various cars they owned, we used to call that a "phillips" registration transfer. I believe it was common for other fords of the era. Not sure when they stopped doing it, as it was a completely dumb idea to begin with.


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#18
This thread has me paranoid now, I'm gonna check my vin stampings everywhere myself now. You probably didn't know at the time of buying of the spots to check for vin numbers, but neither did I.
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#19
Midlife commented on the rivets for the VIN# being difficult to find with the flower pedal shape. You can order them I think maybe $25.00 a pair. If you need to replace dash and keep your VIN# let me know I will locate the supplier. My friend that does the restorations has used them in past. PO lost the VIN# tag and had Marti make another after proving ownership. $500 for a new VIN# for dash so never loose them.


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
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#20
Mine was changed and I didn’t realize it when I bought the car. But I did check to make sure that the vin and block matched. Now I have checked the vin stamp on the drivers shock tower with the fender off. It’s a match also so everything is good but the actual way they did the tag is not like original.

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John 72 Q Code
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