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Very Arbitrary Question
#1
I was planning on doing the body work myself on the Mustang, but after doing a lot of research on the matter, I've decided to simply hire it out so I don't screw it up. So, after this coming Thanksgiving I'm going to get some quotes to get primer, bodywork, primer, primer again, and paint done. I want this car to be a driver so I'm not concerned with show-quality paint; I want a 2 stage job so its more durable. I'm budgeting $6-8,000, is this reasonable for our cars? I have a friend that is going to help me weld in patches so the body should be rust free when I take it down to the body shop. Also, I'm going to have it completely stripped down (except for the engine bay, most likely) so disassembly charges shouldn't apply.

Steve



[Image: 25yvyp3.jpg]
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#2
While I am not a body/paint guy, I would think it depends to a great degree on the local economy.

Based on the information you provided, I believe you would not have a problem with that "budget" here in Memphis.

That having been said, I would look around and have perspective service providers to provide a list of customers for whom they have done similar work, along with their written estimates for the work that you want done.

I am sure that one (or more) of the "body gurus" will post up with some more specifics.

BT

Do the RIGHT thing.
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#3
I think that's on the high side. Here in North Carolina any ways. A friend of mine just has a 71 camaro done for $4000. That with all the welding of new quarter panels and disassembly.

72 Q Code Mach 1, 351C, Toploader.
69 Torino GT Convertible, 351W, FMX
03 Anniversary Harley Davidson
31 Deluxe Tudor
91 F350 Lariet Crewcab 4x4, 460, automatic
2012 Escape 4x4
92 Feature Edition Mustang
82 F100 Shortbed
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#4
I did a lot of prep work on my 73 convert. I removed all the trim, bumper, fenders, mirrors, lights, antenna, etc. I let the body shop remove the hood, trunk lid, and doors. They also replaced the tail light panel. Mine was two stage with multiple coats of three different colors of primer (black, Grey, white) to look for imperfections. They media blasted all the body parts except the rear section which was sanded to metal. They reassembled the whole exterior (I did the interior panels). The cost came in just under $9K. This is in the Washington D.C. metro area so the rates may be higher than other areas. Other body shops gave me estimates up to $15k!!!! Since yours is a sportsroof compared to my convertible you have more sheet metal to paint, so it could be higher. The job was finished in March 2010 so the price is fairly current.

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#5
Thanks guys. I've been looking at the advice being thrown around on here and whoever I settle on, I'll REQUIRE there to be written milestones and payment plans, and I will insist on inspecting each stage of the work. I want to make sure that I'm getting what I pay for. Now, since it's going to be a driver and not a show car some VERY minor imperfections might be tolerated. I do want it to look good though, and I want it to last a long time.

Steve



[Image: 25yvyp3.jpg]
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#6
To be honest the man who's painting my Chevelle and I have a great relationship and I'm helping tear it down (AGAIN) to offset the cost. A case of aluminum of his choice doesn't hurt either. Plus we agreed that I'm in no hurry and hecan do his local work and do my car at his leisure. Me filling the place with body panels though sure keeps him busy! and focused Tongue

[Image: 2rr7aiv.png]

Just cruising along minding our own business when BAM!!! The LAWS show up.
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#7
...not just a written estimate, but get a signed contract for each stage where each stage has a price and schedule attached to that particular stage. There was a body work thread on here somewhere where Scott posted some excellent advice.

My personal thoughts is to give it a try yourself first you may surprise yourself with the results. Try just a small area (like a valence pannel, fender, or hood) and completely do it & see hot it turns out.

[Image: 386_07_10_13_5_58_42.jpeg]
My Mustangs:
71 M-code Mach 1, Medium Blue/White Sport, 4R70W, 3L50, Factory Ram Air.
72 Q-code Mach 1, Pewter/Black Sport, 4-spd, 3L25.
73 F-code Convertible, Planned: color TBD/Black top/White Int., 351C, 5-spd, 3L50.
65 Convertible, Britney Blue/White/White, more modified than original.
05 Convertible, Legend Lime/Tan/Tan, future classic??
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#8
This is a topic I have been thinking about lately. Now that the new engine is in its break in phase and the interior completely replaced with substantial suspension work, that leaves only body work to be done. Trunk floor and tail light panel need replacing and we have both plus welder and torch. Roof needs a new vinyl cover and some metal patch work. Also needs a few dents fixed and then the paint job. I remember the Earl Scheib commercials "Paint your car for $29.95", and he is still in business. We could do the trunk and TLP, don't know about the roof. With the mounting of Don's engine the car again has all matching casting numbers including the frame, D1. Since Ford only made 100 1971 M-code Grandes with a toploader, I wonder how many are left? What I originally paid for the car plus what has been spent so far as mentioned above probably amounts to around $10,000. So there is some room to 'do the right thing'.

mike

[Image: 1_11_11_13_11_50_27.png]
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#9
Don65Stang;41921 Wrote:...not just a written estimate, but get a signed contract for each stage where each stage has a price and schedule attached to that particular stage. There was a body work thread on here somewhere where Scott posted some excellent advice.

My personal thoughts is to give it a try yourself first you may surprise yourself with the results. Try just a small area (like a valence pannel, fender, or hood) and completely do it & see hot it turns out.

Yeah, Scott's advice was what I was referring to. I would prefer to give it a shot myself but time is of the essence now. Might need it to be my daily driver for a little while, so I need to get it done.

Steve



[Image: 25yvyp3.jpg]
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#10
Gotcha, I understand Buddy. Btw, off topic we can discuss later, I picked up a HK P30 this week in .40 s&w. It's definately not a 1911 but is a very nice polymer frame shooter. I've been invited to shoot with some FBI buddies & needed something in .40 to match their caliber. I'll have to resurrect the weapons thread and post a pic of it. It would br great if you were closer so we could get in some range time.

[Image: 386_07_10_13_5_58_42.jpeg]
My Mustangs:
71 M-code Mach 1, Medium Blue/White Sport, 4R70W, 3L50, Factory Ram Air.
72 Q-code Mach 1, Pewter/Black Sport, 4-spd, 3L25.
73 F-code Convertible, Planned: color TBD/Black top/White Int., 351C, 5-spd, 3L50.
65 Convertible, Britney Blue/White/White, more modified than original.
05 Convertible, Legend Lime/Tan/Tan, future classic??
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