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UPDATE NEW PICS 8-20-12 Orange peel look in clearcoat.
#1
Hey guys, I started another thread for this question. I painted my nephews 74 mustang and the clear on the hood roof and trunk layed down nice, but the sides of the car have an orange peel look. I was wondering if anyone could tell me why? gun seetings? too much hardener? Also was wondering if I could wet sand it and have it buffed to help get rid of some of the orange peel?? If so what sandpaper grit do you reconmend? I have never buffed a car but my friend has many of times so i may turn that job over to him. I will wet sand the entire car then buff it if thats what you guys think i should do. I remember when my uncle painted my bronco in high school, he thinned the last coat of clear way down with reducer then shot it to help "melt" the orange peel down. I was afraid to do that with this in fear of having runs everywhere. Thanks for any input guys!
Kevin
[Image: 21noo.jpg]
[Image: eznww2.jpg]
[Image: 28ind5h.jpg]
[Image: 2gsihr6.jpg]

Kevin

1971 Mach 1
408C Stroker
C4 w/3,000 stall
8.8" Rear w/3.73's
Disc brakes all way around.

[Image: 28ivsix.png]




                                                                                             
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#2
Most if not all paint jobs get wet sanded and buffed. Thats what gives then the "LOOK" I'm no painter but usually most wait a few days for the paint to cure
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#3
Potentially zillions of reasons for orange peel, honestly.
- Gun pressure
- Tip size
- What kind of clear
- Temperature
- Humidity
- Reducer quantity, quality and speed
- Booth airflow
- Flash time
etc...

Depending on what clear it is, there should be directions and recommended buff times on the can or from the manufacturer. Recommended sandpaper, buffing pads, pad speed and compounds vary greatly. Generally speaking, don't let it set and cure too long. It can turn to concrete...

Unfortunately, the worst part about it is that everyone will have a different answer (opinion?) to your questions.

Pete - MotoArts Decals and Signs
'71 Sportsroof 351C-4V/4-speed - FINALLY under construction - no, wait, on hold again...
'90 Mustang 7-Up 5.0 ragtop, rolling beater
'66 Sunbeam Tiger Mk.IA, survivor
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#4
MotoArts;62096 Wrote:Potentially zillions of reasons for orange peel, honestly.
- Gun pressure
- Tip size
- What kind of clear
- Temperature
- Humidity
- Reducer quantity, quality and speed
- Booth airflow
- Flash time
etc...

Depending on what clear it is, there should be directions and recommended buff times on the can or from the manufacturer. Recommended sandpaper, buffing pads, pad speed and compounds vary greatly. Generally speaking, don't let it set and cure too long. It can turn to concrete...

Unfortunately, the worst part about it is that everyone will have a different answer (opinion?) to your questions.

Thanks, the more answers the better! I will check with summit and see what they reconmend for buff time. Its all summit brand materials. Which i think all worked very well. With all materials(sandpaper, cleaner degreaser , tape , paper, funnels, filter, paint etc..... everything) Had around $600 in whole job. Thanks for the input. Kevin

Kevin

1971 Mach 1
408C Stroker
C4 w/3,000 stall
8.8" Rear w/3.73's
Disc brakes all way around.

[Image: 28ivsix.png]




                                                                                             
  Reply
#5
+1 on not waiting too long. Clear continues to cure long after it is dry to handle and touch. MotoArts pretty much covered the variables for why you get orange peel. The only one I don't see is application technique (too dry). I think it is best you didn't over-reduce the clear as it can could potentially cause other issues (die-back, hazing, or ??). Chemists design the products to be mixed in specific ratios in order to get a durable properly appearing finish.

Looks like you did a great job on it--buff away!

[Image: 4zw1hv.png]
Dave

1931 Ford Model A Station Wagon
1969 Mach 1 - 351C, TKO-600, 4WDB, R&P, A/C, Shaker, Fold Down, etc.
1972 Mach 1 - 351C, FMX, PDB, PS, A/C, Fold Down, Console
1996 Mustang Cobra Convertible - 10psi Procharger
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#6
I could tell you stories about buffing paint in a previous Job in a production shop (for 2 years). We use to repaint and customize brand new trucks put on ground effects and what not. I will need to know how much clear you put on before I can give you proper advice. All I can say is I used to go through 1 gal+ of 3m extra cut compound WEEKLY. I buffed literally 5-6 hrs a day when I left in the evening My arms felt like they were going to fall off. IT WAS CRAZY. I used to have to detail parts right out of the oven because the production line needed it now( not fun or a good idea for a lot of reason. Keep in mind my advise is from a production point of view, but I used to buff out 3 beds and 3 cab/dog houses each day. talk about one tired pup when I left daily. But If some of that experience can help you I would be glad to help but keep in mind my way is not the only way or the best way ( I had to do it because I had to produce a certain amount of work each day or it was bad for me. We used to tell the plant manager "you want it right or right now" but I learned a lot and I can run a buffer in my sleep,sometimes I think I may have :-). Sorry some of this sounds egotistical but I just need you to know I had a lot of experience buffing for what its worth.
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#7
Didn't sense any egotism, Go Time, just a great description of your experience. Hope you can help out! Smile

Doc

Doc

[Image: 6y14ea.jpg]

Project started 8-7-10
Completed: All new suspension, rebuilt 351C H Code bored .030 over with mild cam and intake, new 3.50 TracLok, custom exhaust system
Current "mini-project": interior upgrade Undecided
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#8
Go Time;62116 Wrote:I could tell you stories about buffing paint in a previous Job in a production shop (for 2 years). We use to repaint and customize brand new trucks put on ground effects and what not. I will need to know how much clear you put on before I can give you proper advice. All I can say is I used to go through 1 gal+ of 3m extra cut compound WEEKLY. I buffed literally 5-6 hrs a day when I left in the evening My arms felt like they were going to fall off. IT WAS CRAZY. I used to have to detail parts right out of the oven because the production line needed it now( not fun or a good idea for a lot of reason. Keep in mind my advise is from a production point of view, but I used to buff out 3 beds and 3 cab/dog houses each day. talk about one tired pup when I left daily. But If some of that experience can help you I would be glad to help but keep in mind my way is not the only way or the best way ( I had to do it because I had to produce a certain amount of work each day or it was bad for me. We used to tell the plant manager "you want it right or right now" but I learned a lot and I can run a buffer in my sleep,sometimes I think I may have :-). Sorry some of this sounds egotistical but I just need you to know I had a lot of experience buffing for what its worth.

Sounds like you have done it a few times. Any advice is appriciated.I put 4 coats of clear on with a 1.4 tip. So it definately has some on there .

Kevin

1971 Mach 1
408C Stroker
C4 w/3,000 stall
8.8" Rear w/3.73's
Disc brakes all way around.

[Image: 28ivsix.png]




                                                                                             
  Reply
#9
I've been doing restorations for 25 years, and in my opinion wet sanding and buffing is one of the most crucial steps in the paint process,,,,,,ONE wrong move, and you can mess up the job pretty quick.......
I really know where you are coming from "Go Time",, Its a tough job, I cant imagine buffing for for 5-6 hrs a day!!!!

[Image: 2mrh3zn.png]
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#10
cobrajet99;62124 Wrote:I've been doing restorations for 25 years, and in my opinion wet sanding and buffing is one of the most crucial steps in the paint process,,,,,,ONE wrong move, and you can mess up the job pretty quick.......
I really know where you are coming from "Go Time",, Its a tough job, I cant imagine buffing for for 5-6 hrs a day!!!!

Thats why im worried about burning through or messing it up.

Kevin

1971 Mach 1
408C Stroker
C4 w/3,000 stall
8.8" Rear w/3.73's
Disc brakes all way around.

[Image: 28ivsix.png]




                                                                                             
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