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Turning rotors
#11
It's about $25 ea to turn rotors around here, so I just buy new. Put AC Delco Advantage rotors on my 71 with zero issues. I did knock the included races out and install the ones that came with the Made in USA Timken bearings. Smile


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#12
(11-16-2018, 03:46 PM)Stanglover Wrote:
(11-16-2018, 12:13 PM)Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs Wrote: When you go back together be sure you torque your nut on your spindle to the spec and back off like they say. Apply the lube where they say on your pads. Another important thing is to use a torque wrench when putting the lugs on. Go from opposite to opposite nut and I usually go 50 ft. lbs. then 80 then 105. I never have an issue with warping rotors. It is easy to warp a rotor with a steel wheel because they are not machined on the back side. The aluminum wheels not so much because they were turned flat on the mounting surface. I use to take torque wrench with me when I got tires to make sure they were right. When I went to Discount Tire they used a torque wrench and went by the book so I keep going back to them.
If you are doing a restore and want to get all the rust off of rotors or drums the molasses tank is very easy and costs much less than the commercial stuff. I hate standing at the blast cabinet and do not like to blast rotors because of getting grit inside.
If you did not rebuild the calipers and put new clips and pins I would. Cheap and gets all the old fluid out and makes sure the pistons are free. Also look at the hoses to make sure they are not coming apart and get new Banjo washers for connections. New fluid in the whole system gets any moisture out.

 You have some very good points David, well worth taking note of.
 
The case I was referring to had nothing to do with the wheels. I had the rotors turned and even though they were still in spec, they warped soon after and I had to buy new ones.
I would agree that turned aluminum wheel interface would likely dissipate some of the heat better than the minimal surface on a stamped steel wheel.
Rotors are in general, pretty cheap these days, probably not much more than the labor to turn them, so why bother.
Just saying.
For me it is free I have a brake lathe, lol. Went to auction and picked it up for $350 few years back. Putting new boots on it. When I was working in the shop back in the 60's I think we only charged $2.00 to turn a drum back then. Not many disc. I was doing a few brake jobs to pay power bill but neck is out now.
[Image: DSC-0335.jpg]


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
  Reply
#13
(11-17-2018, 10:54 AM)Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs Wrote:
(11-16-2018, 03:46 PM)Stanglover Wrote:
(11-16-2018, 12:13 PM)Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs Wrote: When you go back together be sure you torque your nut on your spindle to the spec and back off like they say. Apply the lube where they say on your pads. Another important thing is to use a torque wrench when putting the lugs on. Go from opposite to opposite nut and I usually go 50 ft. lbs. then 80 then 105. I never have an issue with warping rotors. It is easy to warp a rotor with a steel wheel because they are not machined on the back side. The aluminum wheels not so much because they were turned flat on the mounting surface. I use to take torque wrench with me when I got tires to make sure they were right. When I went to Discount Tire they used a torque wrench and went by the book so I keep going back to them.
If you are doing a restore and want to get all the rust off of rotors or drums the molasses tank is very easy and costs much less than the commercial stuff. I hate standing at the blast cabinet and do not like to blast rotors because of getting grit inside.
If you did not rebuild the calipers and put new clips and pins I would. Cheap and gets all the old fluid out and makes sure the pistons are free. Also look at the hoses to make sure they are not coming apart and get new Banjo washers for connections. New fluid in the whole system gets any moisture out.

 You have some very good points David, well worth taking note of.
 
The case I was referring to had nothing to do with the wheels. I had the rotors turned and even though they were still in spec, they warped soon after and I had to buy new ones.
I would agree that turned aluminum wheel interface would likely dissipate some of the heat better than the minimal surface on a stamped steel wheel.
Rotors are in general, pretty cheap these days, probably not much more than the labor to turn them, so why bother.
Just saying.
For me it is free I have a brake lathe, lol. Went to auction and picked it up for $350 few years back. Putting new boots on it. When I was working in the shop back in the 60's I think we only charged $2.00 to turn a drum back then. Not many disc. I was doing a few brake jobs to pay power bill but neck is out now.
[Image: DSC-0335.jpg]
 Some people have waaay tooo many nice toys!!

I learn something new every day!
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#14
Go to the auctions and estate sales. I was at one this summer had two brand new rotisseries, 2 post lifts, several new welders and 35 vehicles were auctioned off. 5 or 6 huge tool boxes full for hundreds each. The owner had fallen and never recovered so family sold everything.
When I got the brake lathe I could have got alignment machine with the computer and laser heads for $400 it sold for $350. There was more scrap price than that. Snap on code readers went for $500 that cost thousands, new still had the film on the screens in the box. When I die all my stuff will be sold I am sure nobody wants to work on cars anymore. Dying breed, lol.
I had to quit going to them way too easy to buy, lol.


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
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