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Turning rotors
#1
Hello,

I need to have my rotors turned and they are off the car and in need of new bearings/races.  Do I need to remove the bearings and races before taking them to the brake shop?

Thanks!

Scott
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#2
Scott,
Bearings yes, races no. The brake lathes have adapters that fit in the front and rear races to secure it for turning.
Hope this helps......
Thanks, Jay
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#3
(11-15-2018, 04:48 PM)clevelandcoupe Wrote: Scott,
Bearings yes, races no. The brake lathes have adapters that fit in the front and rear races to secure it for turning.
Hope this helps......
Thanks, Jay

Jay, thanks for the info, much appreciated!

Scott
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#4
Are you sure there's enough left to have them turned? I measure the width of the rotor before I decide what to do. The minimum width (thickness) will be on the rotor. If they are close to the minimum, and grooved, there will likely not be enough left after turning to meet the minimum.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#5
(11-15-2018, 05:04 PM)Don C Wrote: Are you sure there's enough left to have them turned? I measure the width of the rotor before I decide what to do. The minimum width (thickness) will be on the rotor. If they are close to the minimum, and grooved, there will likely not be enough left after turning to meet the minimum.


I believe so, but they are a bit rusty.  I have to clean them up first.

Good point though!  Thanks!

Scott
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#6
Just from personal experience, turned rotors are far more likely to warp. Personally, I would not waste my money again on turning them, just go buy premium new ones and you're done. Turning might be an option for a minimum clean-up only, like .010"/side for light rust pitting.
That's my personal point of view, take it for what it's worth.
Geoff.

I learn something new every day!
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#7
When you go back together be sure you torque your nut on your spindle to the spec and back off like they say. Apply the lube where they say on your pads. Another important thing is to use a torque wrench when putting the lugs on. Go from opposite to opposite nut and I usually go 50 ft. lbs. then 80 then 105. I never have an issue with warping rotors. It is easy to warp a rotor with a steel wheel because they are not machined on the back side. The aluminum wheels not so much because they were turned flat on the mounting surface. I use to take torque wrench with me when I got tires to make sure they were right. When I went to Discount Tire they used a torque wrench and went by the book so I keep going back to them.
If you are doing a restore and want to get all the rust off of rotors or drums the molasses tank is very easy and costs much less than the commercial stuff. I hate standing at the blast cabinet and do not like to blast rotors because of getting grit inside.
If you did not rebuild the calipers and put new clips and pins I would. Cheap and gets all the old fluid out and makes sure the pistons are free. Also look at the hoses to make sure they are not coming apart and get new Banjo washers for connections. New fluid in the whole system gets any moisture out.


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
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#8
(11-16-2018, 12:13 PM)Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs Wrote: When you go back together be sure you torque your nut on your spindle to the spec and back off like they say. Apply the lube where they say on your pads. Another important thing is to use a torque wrench when putting the lugs on. Go from opposite to opposite nut and I usually go 50 ft. lbs. then 80 then 105. I never have an issue with warping rotors. It is easy to warp a rotor with a steel wheel because they are not machined on the back side. The aluminum wheels not so much because they were turned flat on the mounting surface. I use to take torque wrench with me when I got tires to make sure they were right. When I went to Discount Tire they used a torque wrench and went by the book so I keep going back to them.
If you are doing a restore and want to get all the rust off of rotors or drums the molasses tank is very easy and costs much less than the commercial stuff. I hate standing at the blast cabinet and do not like to blast rotors because of getting grit inside.
If you did not rebuild the calipers and put new clips and pins I would. Cheap and gets all the old fluid out and makes sure the pistons are free. Also look at the hoses to make sure they are not coming apart and get new Banjo washers for connections. New fluid in the whole system gets any moisture out.

 You have some very good points David, well worth taking note of.
 
The case I was referring to had nothing to do with the wheels. I had the rotors turned and even though they were still in spec, they warped soon after and I had to buy new ones.
I would agree that turned aluminum wheel interface would likely dissipate some of the heat better than the minimal surface on a stamped steel wheel.
Rotors are in general, pretty cheap these days, probably not much more than the labor to turn them, so why bother.
Just saying.

I learn something new every day!
  Reply
#9
(11-16-2018, 03:46 PM)Stanglover Wrote:
(11-16-2018, 12:13 PM)Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs Wrote: When you go back together be sure you torque your nut on your spindle to the spec and back off like they say. Apply the lube where they say on your pads. Another important thing is to use a torque wrench when putting the lugs on. Go from opposite to opposite nut and I usually go 50 ft. lbs. then 80 then 105. I never have an issue with warping rotors. It is easy to warp a rotor with a steel wheel because they are not machined on the back side. The aluminum wheels not so much because they were turned flat on the mounting surface. I use to take torque wrench with me when I got tires to make sure they were right. When I went to Discount Tire they used a torque wrench and went by the book so I keep going back to them.
If you are doing a restore and want to get all the rust off of rotors or drums the molasses tank is very easy and costs much less than the commercial stuff. I hate standing at the blast cabinet and do not like to blast rotors because of getting grit inside.
If you did not rebuild the calipers and put new clips and pins I would. Cheap and gets all the old fluid out and makes sure the pistons are free. Also look at the hoses to make sure they are not coming apart and get new Banjo washers for connections. New fluid in the whole system gets any moisture out.

 You have some very good points David, well worth taking note of.
 
The case I was referring to had nothing to do with the wheels. I had the rotors turned and even though they were still in spec, they warped soon after and I had to buy new ones.
I would agree that turned aluminum wheel interface would likely dissipate some of the heat better than the minimal surface on a stamped steel wheel.
Rotors are in general, pretty cheap these days, probably not much more than the labor to turn them, so why bother.
Just saying.

"Rotors are in general, pretty cheap these days, probably not much more than the labor to turn them, so why bother."


My problem is finding affordable "quality" rotors that aren't made in China where who knows what kind of steel is in them.  For $20 I can have original Ford or domestically made rotors resurfaced.

Scott
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#10
(11-16-2018, 04:01 PM)Monterey Wrote:
(11-16-2018, 03:46 PM)Stanglover Wrote:  
Rotors are in general, pretty cheap these days, probably not much more than the labor to turn them, so why bother.
Just saying.

"Rotors are in general, pretty cheap these days, probably not much more than the labor to turn them, so why bother."


My problem is finding affordable "quality" rotors that aren't made in China where who knows what kind of steel is in them.  For $20 I can have original Ford or domestically made rotors resurfaced.

Scott

 Scott, I know what you're saying. Too much aftermarket 'stuff' is made in China and as you say, who knows what (steel) is in them. I too would certainly want the best quality and I understand your point. If you can't find US made rotors, then resurfacing may be your best bet if done correctly. I'm just saying "don't be surprised if they do warp" and that's what happened to me several years ago.
All the best with it,
Geoff.

I learn something new every day!
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