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Tuning for economy?
#11
Thanks to everyone for the tips/advise!

I started going over the car today to try to confirm/adjust to some of the recommendations. Started at the carb to make sure that the choke was operating correctly and coming completely off. It appeared to be functioning correctly. I had already lowered the primary bowl float a little on the Summit carb per their recommendation for a street car. Secondary float is set where it should be normally.

Pulled the number 1 plug fully expecting it to show a "rich" condition but surprisingly it doesn't. Oddly, 1/2 of the plug shows a little color but the other 1/2 is almost white. I have never seen a plug look like this divided almost exactly on either side of the electrode. Any ideas on what this means?? Pics attached.

Didn't have time to check timing today. The car has a Mallory Unilite distributor and I can't find any info on how to adjust the curve if needed. i think they sell a kit for some of their distributors to tune them but apparently this model  for the 351C is discontinued.  I have not fooled with the timing on the car since it has run good since I got rid of the Eldebrock carb but I do remember there being a white paint mark at about 10 degrees on the crank. Hopefully, I'll have time to check it out tomorrow and find out what's going on.
[Image: IMG-2015.jpg]


[Image: IMG-2014.jpg]
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#12
(01-21-2019, 03:49 AM)mbrew2 Wrote: Thanks to everyone for the tips/advise!

I started going over the car today to try to confirm/adjust to some of the recommendations. Started at the carb to make sure that the choke was operating correctly and coming completely off. It appeared to be functioning correctly. I had already lowered the primary bowl float a little on the Summit carb per their recommendation for a street car. Secondary float is set where it should be normally.

Pulled the number 1 plug fully expecting it to show a "rich" condition but surprisingly it doesn't. Oddly, 1/2 of the plug shows a little color but the other 1/2 is almost white. I have never seen a plug look like this divided almost exactly on either side of the electrode. Any ideas on what this means?? Pics attached.

Didn't have time to check timing today. The car has a Mallory Unilite distributor and I can't find any info on how to adjust the curve if needed. i think they sell a kit for some of their distributors to tune them but apparently this model  for the 351C is discontinued.  I have not fooled with the timing on the car since it has run good since I got rid of the Eldebrock carb but I do remember there being a white paint mark at about 10 degrees on the crank. Hopefully, I'll have time to check it out tomorrow and find out what's going on.
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[url=https://ibb.co/3YJt1SJ]

 What the F plugs are those?? On my 71 351 4V with quench CC heads, I use Autolite 24's set at .045" for the Pertronix Ignitor II and matching high output coil.
The reason the plugs are whiter on one side is a flame shadow, best way I can describe it. Other than that, the color looks ok. Best time to read plugs is right after a highway run and before you get back into city type driving.
I'm not too familiar with the Mallory distributor, but if it's the same one my buddy has on his modded 67, it has no vacuum advance. I don't think it really needs vacuum advance, but I can't help on tuning that type. I'm sure Don C or others can offer help on that.

Edit, deleted pics.

I learn something new every day!
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#13
Plugs look good to me. I don't normally run anything other than Autolite Copper plugs in my cars, as they've never given me a reason to go elsewhere.

If your Unilite distributor does not have a vacuum advance, stop right there and locate one.


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#14
(01-21-2019, 10:42 AM)Hemikiller Wrote: Plugs look good to me. I don't normally run anything other than Autolite Copper plugs in my cars, as they've never given me a reason to go elsewhere.

If your Unilite distributor does not have a vacuum advance, stop right there and locate one.

 I just remembered, I was offered a Mallory mechanical only distributor a while back, but turned it down in favor of figuring out how to curve the Cardone reman Motorcraft.
 It's been suggested before, but a DuraSpark setup would be a good choice and can be purchased pretty much drop-in-and-go. Performance Distributors was it?
 Also I'm not a fan of Edlebrock carbs. Never had one, they just don't 'look right' if you know what I mean. My choice has always been Holley or maybe soon a switch to Quick Fuel or even Summit Racing's version.
Geoff.

I learn something new every day!
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#15
(01-21-2019, 11:20 AM)Stanglover Wrote:
(01-21-2019, 10:42 AM)Hemikiller Wrote: Plugs look good to me. I don't normally run anything other than Autolite Copper plugs in my cars, as they've never given me a reason to go elsewhere.

If your Unilite distributor does not have a vacuum advance, stop right there and locate one.

 I just remembered, I was offered a Mallory mechanical only distributor a while back, but turned it down in favor of figuring out how to curve the Cardone reman Motorcraft.
 It's been suggested before, but a DuraSpark setup would be a good choice and can be purchased pretty much drop-in-and-go. Performance Distributors was it?
 Also I'm not a fan of Edlebrock carbs. Never had one, they just don't 'look right' if you know what I mean. My choice has always been Holley or maybe soon a switch to Quick Fuel or even Summit Racing's version.
Geoff.
The plugs are NGK ur4gp. The mallory does have a vacuum advance, currently connected to ported vacuum on the Summit carb.
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#16
The basics will help MPG, proper alignment and tire pressure!
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#17
(01-21-2019, 11:54 AM)mbrew2 Wrote: The plugs are NGK ur4gp. The mallory does have a vacuum advance, currently connected to ported vacuum on the Summit carb.


Excellent. I'd say verify that it's working by temporarily hooking it to a manifold vacuum source (or a vacuum pump if you have one) while the engine is idling. You should see an immediate increase in rpms. If not, you'll need to troubleshoot that issue.

You probably have a 4756701 Unilite unit. Should be stamped onto the tag on the base casting. Attached a 2005 catalog below for reference.


Attached Files
.pdf   MALLORY.pdf (Size: 7.65 MB / Downloads: 6)


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#18
(01-21-2019, 12:23 PM)waterlife Wrote: The basics will help MPG, proper alignment and tire pressure!

That too!

I learn something new every day!
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#19
(01-21-2019, 11:54 AM)mbrew2 Wrote:
(01-21-2019, 11:20 AM)Stanglover Wrote:
(01-21-2019, 10:42 AM)Hemikiller Wrote: Plugs look good to me. I don't normally run anything other than Autolite Copper plugs in my cars, as they've never given me a reason to go elsewhere.

If your Unilite distributor does not have a vacuum advance, stop right there and locate one.

 I just remembered, I was offered a Mallory mechanical only distributor a while back, but turned it down in favor of figuring out how to curve the Cardone reman Motorcraft.
 It's been suggested before, but a DuraSpark setup would be a good choice and can be purchased pretty much drop-in-and-go. Performance Distributors was it?
 Also I'm not a fan of Edlebrock carbs. Never had one, they just don't 'look right' if you know what I mean. My choice has always been Holley or maybe soon a switch to Quick Fuel or even Summit Racing's version.
Geoff.
The plugs are NGK ur4gp. The mallory does have a vacuum advance, currently connected to ported vacuum on the Summit carb.

 Ok. Let others with far more knowledge take it from here. By the way, did you mention exactly what your engine is? I don't remember seeing it, or is it my old eyes!!
Ooops, my old eyes, 351 2V 73 Vert.
All the best with it.
Geoff.

I learn something new every day!
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#20
(01-21-2019, 01:18 PM)Hemikiller Wrote:
(01-21-2019, 11:54 AM)mbrew2 Wrote: The plugs are NGK ur4gp. The mallory does have a vacuum advance, currently connected to ported vacuum on the Summit carb.


Excellent. I'd say verify that it's working by temporarily hooking it to a manifold vacuum source (or a vacuum pump if you have one) while the engine is idling. You should see an immediate increase in rpms. If not, you'll need to troubleshoot that issue.

You probably have a 4756701 Unilite unit. Should be stamped onto the tag on the base casting. Attached a 2005 catalog below for reference.

Yes, thats the one.

Lets see, trying to follow up on all the tuning tips received, and finding nothing out of the ordinary so far: choke works, carb property tuned, plugs OK, engine is tight with no abnormal noises or pings, cranks at first turn of switch hot or cold, holds 75lb oil  pressure cold, 45-65 warmed up depending on rpm, drops to 20-25 at idle hot. Its responsive and appears to generate good power for what it is. Haven't checked timing yet but am 95% sure its OK and well within range.

So, not finding anything terribly wrong, I am led to the conclusion that the mileage issue is MY BIG Right Foot! I am also convinced that the 2.75 gears and FMX contribute to my problem. I have noticed that in everyday stop and go traffic, I have to be on the gas WAAAY more to keep up with the little girl in that Honda in the next lane leaving the red light. Much, much more than I would need to if I were in our Highlander for example. So I'm thinking that with 3.50 gears, It wouldn't take as much throttle to achieve the same speed over the same relatively short distance. But, and there's always a but, I really like the 2.75 gears for highway travel running 75-80 without straining the motor.

If you haven't figured it out yet, I'm lobbying for a new 4r70w and 3.50 gearset that would be more efficient both in-town and on the highway. HA, I can even see telling the wife that it would pay for itself eventually in fuel savings, not to mention not having that blast from the Flowmaster 40s when I'm just trying to keep up with traffic.

Thanks to everyone for the advise/tips. I have learned to love this car and this forum.  

If something jumps up out of the ordinary with the timing, I'll be back for more help.
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