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Trunk Lip
#1
Magnum 
When i striped the paint off my trunk which looked decent, this is what i found full of spot puddy.

.jpg   Out trunk Lip.JPG (Size: 20.48 KB / Downloads: 146)
The inside lip is decent there is a bit of rust in the fold.

.jpg   Inner Trunk Lip.JPG (Size: 20.31 KB / Downloads: 143)
What i am thinking of doing is re-skinning the bottom 1 1/2" on the out side.
Or
I could butt weld a patch from the outside, then pour rust coverter down the inside of the fold, then pour rust encapsulator down the inside of the fold.


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#2
The closeup pics show the specific area, but could you give a little more perspective with a wider angle shot? I'm leaning toward the butt weld, but I'm far from an expert.

Doc

Doc

[Image: 6y14ea.jpg]

Project started 8-7-10
Completed: All new suspension, rebuilt 351C H Code bored .030 over with mild cam and intake, new 3.50 TracLok, custom exhaust system
Current "mini-project": interior upgrade Undecided
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#3

.jpg   100_2765.JPG (Size: 15.79 KB / Downloads: 125)

.jpg   100_2764.JPG (Size: 14.1 KB / Downloads: 119)

.jpg   100_2762.JPG (Size: 18.25 KB / Downloads: 122)

.jpg   100_2761.JPG (Size: 18.37 KB / Downloads: 124)
I am worried about it being thinned out in other spots and rust popping threw later
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#4
Treat the rust, stop the rest, seal the rust... fill the bad spots, and paint it.

Or

Get a new trunk lid if you would prefer to have no filler.

(If you pick option 2, 'how much' for the one in the picture + shipping to 76904?) Wink Big Grin

Eric

[Image: mach1sig2.gif]
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#5
M Beauchamp;34940 Wrote:When i striped the paint off my trunk which looked decent, this is what i found full of spot puddy.

The inside lip is decent there is a bit of rust in the fold.

What i am thinking of doing is re-skinning the bottom 1 1/2" on the out side.
Or
I could butt weld a patch from the outside, then pour rust coverter down the inside of the fold, then pour rust encapsulator down the inside of the fold.
You need to "unfold the lip " There's more rust than you are seeing. Then bead blast the entire lip..inner skin & frame where the lip folds over..I would then apply rust bullet to the entire inner structure..Then you can make your patch & butt weld...I'd be inclined to replace that lid with a new aftermarket one I hear they fit pretty good...Thats not such an easy repair to do correctly . Rust converter / encapsulation are a waste of time & money. By the time you factor in the materials & labor it will cost more than buying a new one.


LOVE OF BEAUTY IS TASTE..THE CREATION OF BEAUTY IS ART
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#6
Thats what I am thinking too, better off buy a reproduction for find a good used one.
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#7
I am very interested to find out how the repro trunk lids fit on the fastback. I have been looking for a good solid rust free original for the past 6 months without much luck. They all appear to rust in the same area. Mine is not bad, very similiar to yours, but I do not want anything coming through my new paint job. Please let me know if you buy a repro and how it fits? They always need a little tweaking, but hopefully not much. Pay close attention to your replacement if you are going for original. They made an engineering change from 72 to 73 on how they install the trunck latch. 71 through sometime in 72 have a slot cut between the latch and the front edge where the 73 does not.

BKDunha
72 Mach 1 H-Code (Concourse driven restoration)
67 S-Code Factory GT with 4-Spd

68 Mercury Cyclone (Pro-Street project)
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#8
bkdunha;34972 Wrote:I am very interested to find out how the repro trunk lids fit on the fastback. I have been looking for a good solid rust free original for the past 6 months without much luck. They all appear to rust in the same area. Mine is not bad, very similiar to yours, but I do not want anything coming through my new paint job. Please let me know if you buy a repro and how it fits? They always need a little tweaking, but hopefully not much. Pay close attention to your replacement if you are going for original. They made an engineering change from 72 to 73 on how they install the trunck latch. 71 through sometime in 72 have a slot cut between the latch and the front edge where the 73 does not.

71 - early 72 did not have the lock clip slot
Late 72 - 73 has the slot.
Trunk lock clip goes into the slot and gets rivited in place.
Don't know if it was...
1- to make it harder to pry out the lock.
2- to save the lock installers from getting cut on the sheet metal.

Knowing the Ford bean counters, I think number 2 as it would save downtime and workers comp claims.

New repro trunk lids
Coupe / convertible ones, fit finish is OK, way better then fixing rot

Fastback ones, very good fit
Don

Ohio Mustang Supply
440-949-2556

[Image: oms_sig_banner.jpg]
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#9
Though i would give the repiar a try

.jpg   100_2770.JPG (Size: 25.81 KB / Downloads: 63)
  Reply
#10
I bought a repo fastback lid and it fit like a charm. I believe I got it from CJ's. No issues what so ever.

72 Q Code Mach 1, 351C, Toploader.
69 Torino GT Convertible, 351W, FMX
03 Anniversary Harley Davidson
31 Deluxe Tudor
91 F350 Lariet Crewcab 4x4, 460, automatic
2012 Escape 4x4
92 Feature Edition Mustang
82 F100 Shortbed
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