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Trunk Floor, Tail Panel, Quarter Panels, Outer wheel wells - Order of importance?
#11
(02-17-2019, 09:42 PM)ITMike5.0 Wrote:
(02-17-2019, 09:20 PM)Mister 4x4 Wrote: I pulled my taillight panel then the trunk pan & drop-offs.  Then I welded a cross-beam between the frame rails just ahead of the rear cross member before removing and replacing the rear cross-member.  After that, I replaced the trunk pan and drop-offs.  Then, I replaced the taillight panel, but didn't reattach to the quarters.  Next came the quarters and outer wheel houses (did each side separately).  My logic was that having something major attached while doing each area would help maintain the integrity of the car's unibody - which I was honestly waiting for the whole thing to collapse once I pulled the taillight panel... it didn't.

Was this cross-beam the thing you mentioned in your build as the "gas tank hammock"?  If my cross member is in good enough shape and I can leave that will I still need this cross-beam temporarily between the frame rails?

Exactly right.  I used it because it was the most handy piece of metal I had laying around at the time that would fit all the way across.  Since the rear frame rails were going to be separated from pretty much everything at the rear end, I figured I'd at least give them a little bit of support (from each other) while I replaced the rear cross member.  If your cross member is good, you won't need the extra bracing - I just used it for peace of mind while having it all apart.

BTW - the gas tank hammock was not actually part of my build, but rather a Redneck Engineered solution to keep the gas tank in the car since the previous owners had let the trunk pan rust out so badly it fell apart (since the forward bracket for the gas tank straps welded directly to the underside of the trunk pan, after all).

As I found it, once I started pulling loose trunk pan sheet metal from the car:
[Image: trunk1.jpg]

While employed as a support bracket while I replaced the rear cross-member:
[Image: rearend1.jpg]

Rear cross-member replaced:
[Image: rearend2.jpg]

While I had it all open, I treated the insides of the frame rails with Rust Bullet Black Shell (epoxy primer):
[Image: trunk1-1.jpg]

Make sure to get the 'long' trunk pan, not the short one like I did:
[Image: trunk2-1.jpg]

Since mine's a restomod and I'd already bought the short panel (not knowing there was a difference), I just made a panel to bridge the gap:
[Image: trunk3.jpg]

Just after removing and replacing that rusted out quarter extension panel (whatever it's called - seen in the other pics):
[Image: rearcorner1.jpg]

After that, welded in the new taillight panel:
[Image: taillight1-1024x768.jpg]


And test-fitted everything to see that I'd gotten it all lined up:
[Image: taillight3.jpg]

After that, I started in on the quarters.

Hope this helps!

Eric

[Image: mach1sig2.gif]
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#12
Regarding floor pan and drop offs.
How one is supposed to handle the corner between the two? I saw on few occasions the floor pan sheet folded to rest onto them. (Mine is straight)
And seen drop off with a 90deg bend on the top. What is the expected construction from factory?

73 modified Grandé 351C. Almost done. 
71 429CJ. In progress
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#13
(02-18-2019, 03:12 PM)Fabrice Wrote: Regarding floor pan and drop offs.
How one is supposed to handle the corner between the two? I saw on few occasions the floor pan sheet folded to rest onto them. (Mine is straight)
And seen drop off with a 90deg bend on the top. What is the expected construction from factory?

Both the repop trunk pan and drop-offs had 90 degree bends for the frame rails. I'd already done the trunk pan, so I just laid mine over the top of the trunk pan on either side.

[Image: HPIM0829.jpg]

[Image: HPIM0830.jpg]

[Image: HPIM0831.jpg]

Eric

[Image: mach1sig2.gif]
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#14
(02-18-2019, 10:11 AM)73pony Wrote: Do this. Cheap (scrap lumber), easy, much safer than jack stands, keeps the weight on the suspension, and plenty of room to work under the car. I did an FMX to T5 swap with these no problem.  Just some 2x12 from the scrap bin at menards and a couple pieces of 2x4 and nails. 

OK, here is my version going off your idea and also others I saw on YouTube after you piqued my interest.  Should give me about a 12" lift from the bottom of the tires.


[Image: Wheel-Cribs.jpg]
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#15
I made some too and really like them. I have added some more layers to raise them up a bit more. They work great.    

run_horse Run Horse Run!
John 72 Q Code
[+] 1 user Likes jpaz's post
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#16
Very cool. Glad I could help out. They are handy for sure.

'73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

'73 F code convertible. Bright red. Needs total restore. (IE HOT MESS)

- Jason
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#17
(02-18-2019, 04:03 PM)Mister 4x4 Wrote: Both the repop trunk pan and drop-offs had 90 degree bends for the frame rails.  I'd already done the trunk pan, so I just laid mine over the top of the trunk pan on either side.

Downloaded and saved these picts, thx for posting them.

You ment like this? 
Is it assembled like this from origin or were the drop offs somehow folded and one with the floorpan?
Meaning is there a need to keep some of the old floor metal (+- 1 inch) to do this if the drop offs are ok?
[Image: spotwelds.jpg]

73 modified Grandé 351C. Almost done. 
71 429CJ. In progress
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#18
runninpony 
Fabrice, I think the floor pans were a 1 piece design with the drop offs on it and bent 90 degrees! 
[Image: NOS-TRUNK-FLOOR.jpg]

71-73 Mustangs never die, they just go faster!
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#19
(02-20-2019, 07:05 AM)NOT A T5 Wrote: Fabrice, I think the floor pans were a 1 piece design with the drop offs on it and bent 90 degrees! 

I've asked, because when i've patched my 73, having just light corrosion on one side at the fold, I remember there was no double metal there.
@Mr4x4 used new separated sheets that were having the fold. Just like the floor pan that I have with a 90 deg extra bend.

[Image: oiled.jpg]

Unless I'd replace the drop offs and buy new ones with a fold on top, I will have to cut the floor +- 1 inch away from the drop offs,
This way, I can spot weld from beneath and also eventually do same from the side once the lower quarter is removed...
Not expecting the 1 mm extra height to be a prob.
Thanks for clarifying that.

73 modified Grandé 351C. Almost done. 
71 429CJ. In progress
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#20
Apologies - My internet at work is blocking the pics, and when I was at home last night before I got a chance to take a look, we had a power hit for a few hours.

If I'm tracking what you're saying (without benefit of pictures), basically both the trunk pan as well as the drop-offs have 90 degree bends in them at the point of contact to each other as well as the rear frame rails.  So yes, there will be an overlap of the pieces.  Since I did my trunk pan first, the drop-offs came out on top [of the framerail/trunkpan/drop-off sandwich] - and No, the extra layer of thin sheet metal has very little impact on the overall fit of everything.

Keep in mind that mine is a restomod, I used repop sheet metal, and I didn't everything out of necessity rather than the desire for executing a faithful restoration.  Since my entire trunk is carpeted, I could care less which panel wound up on top, or if it was factory correct.  That's just how mine went back together.  Someone interested in "getting it absolutely right," as in "faithful restoration," would be using NOS sheet metal and referencing an unmolested car to duplicate the same.

Eric

[Image: mach1sig2.gif]
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