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Trunk Floor, Tail Panel, Quarter Panels, Outer wheel wells - Order of importance?
#1
I'm ready to tackle my trunk floor, tail panel, wheel wells and also the quarters.  My questions are this:  Is there a certain order that I should do this in?  I'm guessing it might be easier to do the trunk floor if I have the quarters and tail panel cut out first?  Or is that wrong and I should do one before the other?  

Also I currently have the car up on 6 ton jack stands.  The rear are under the axle and the front the frame rails.  Can I do all this work with the car the way it sits?  I do have a rotisserie but I did read plenty of posts on here saying NOT to do this type of work on a rotisserie.

Stang Life!

[Image: Stangs.jpg]






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#2
You're fine, and correct not to do it on a rotisserie.  You want the frame rails and suspension to take the weight of the car (as normal) because supporting it by the frame rails could cause something to tweak irregularly. The unibody structure has the "B/C-pillar" solidly attached to the inner wheel houses and rear frame rail, which is huge for the structural integrity.

I pulled my taillight panel then the trunk pan & drop-offs.  Then I welded a cross-beam between the frame rails just ahead of the rear cross member before removing and replacing the rear cross-member.  After that, I replaced the trunk pan and drop-offs.  Then, I replaced the taillight panel, but didn't reattach to the quarters.  Next came the quarters and outer wheel houses (did each side separately).  My logic was that having something major attached while doing each area would help maintain the integrity of the car's unibody - which I was honestly waiting for the whole thing to collapse once I pulled the taillight panel... it didn't.

I've also seen others pull all of those pieces with no issues whatsoever.

Another valuable tip I received was to clean out and treat the insides of the frame rails after the trunk pan's out - you're never going to get back in there and have another chance to do this.  Just a little extra insurance policy for the insides of the frame rails.

Hope this helps!

Eric

[Image: mach1sig2.gif]
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#3
(02-17-2019, 09:20 PM)Mister 4x4 Wrote: I pulled my taillight panel then the trunk pan & drop-offs.  Then I welded a cross-beam between the frame rails just ahead of the rear cross member before removing and replacing the rear cross-member.  After that, I replaced the trunk pan and drop-offs.  Then, I replaced the taillight panel, but didn't reattach to the quarters.  Next came the quarters and outer wheel houses (did each side separately).  My logic was that having something major attached while doing each area would help maintain the integrity of the car's unibody - which I was honestly waiting for the whole thing to collapse once I pulled the taillight panel... it didn't.

Was this cross-beam the thing you mentioned in your build as the "gas tank hammock"?  If my cross member is in good enough shape and I can leave that will I still need this cross-beam temporarily between the frame rails?

Stang Life!

[Image: Stangs.jpg]






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#4
When I did mine, I just had it on tires and sitting as normal on the ground. I cut out the tail panel, half of my trunk pan was already gone, so I finished cutting the trunk pan, drop-offs and the rear cross member out, Cleaned and did some rust prevention on the inside of the frame rails. After welding in a new rear cross member, trunk pan, and tail panel I moved to the inside and did some repair work on the floors. I went back and cut the quarter panels off and did one side at a time and at the same time, repaired the outer wheel houses and welded in new trunk drop offs.
Every so often, I would just shift gears to another part of the car so that I wouldn't get frustrated on one certain area. Rebuilt the door hinges, realigned the doors and now working on the front end area.

Tom
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#5
So really as long as I'm supporting the car by the rear axle and the front by the suspension that would mimic it being on all four tires. As long as the car is level I should be good to go right? I'd just prefer to keep it on the 6 ton jacks to have that extra working height and more room under the car.
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#6
Do this. Cheap (scrap lumber), easy, much safer than jack stands, keeps the weight on the suspension, and plenty of room to work under the car. I did an FMX to T5 swap with these no problem. Just some 2x12 from the scrap bin at menards and a couple pieces of 2x4 and nails.

[Image: IMG-1482.jpg]

73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

- Jason


[Image: 082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg]
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#7
I'm not qualified to get into bodywork stuff, but my "logic" would say to measure everything before cutting anything as long as it's all straight, not crashed and damaged.  That way you have a reference to go back to.
Geoff.

I learn something new every day!
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#8
(02-18-2019, 10:11 AM)73pony Wrote: Do this. Cheap (scrap lumber), easy, much safer than jack stands, keeps the weight on the suspension, and plenty of room to work under the car. I did an FMX to T5 swap with these no problem.  Just some 2x12 from the scrap bin at menards and a couple pieces of 2x4 and nails.

[Image: IMG-1482.jpg]

Good idea Jason!! Thinking out of the (scrap) box!!

I learn something new every day!
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#9
(02-18-2019, 10:11 AM)73pony Wrote: Do this. Cheap (scrap lumber), easy, much safer than jack stands, keeps the weight on the suspension, and plenty of room to work under the car. I did an FMX to T5 swap with these no problem.  Just some 2x12 from the scrap bin at menards and a couple pieces of 2x4 and nails.

[Image: IMG-1482.jpg]

Not a bad idea...  Looks like you stacked about 8 of those for a 16" lift?  What length did you cut them at?  About 20 inches?
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#10
8 pieces on each for 1 12" lift. I cut them about 18". I think 20 would have ben better. I just used framing nailer to nail them together each layer.

73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

- Jason


[Image: 082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg]
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