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Transmission leakage - advice
#1
Today as I continue removing my rusted floors I was able to see what appears as leakage from the driver's side of the transmission (see pictures). I don't know if it is coming from where the kick-down connects or from what appears to be a plug just above it. Both are wet so maybe both are leaking, and I know that the pan is also leaking. There are leaks from every possible place in this car.
You can also see in the pictures some wiring with rotten protection.

Questions:
-What is the plug looking attachment? is this an adjustment for something?
-Should I and what should I replace to fix these leaks? I assume some type of washer, o-ring or bushing.
-Should I add something to protect these wires?
-Anything else that I should look at in that area?

Right now I have easier access since part of the floor is out so it is a good time to tackle any of the above.

Thanks for the advice.


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        [Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
4-wheel disc brakes
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#2
-What is the plug looking attachment? is this an adjustment for something? It's the intermediate band adjustment. There should be a seal on the nut to stop the leaks there. These are used once so you will need to buy the replacement parts here.

-Should I and what should I replace to fix these leaks? I assume some type of washer, o-ring or bushing. For the shifter lever if the leak is from there you will have to remove the NSS and oil pan. The nut that holds the shaft is inside the transmission. There is a bushing and O ring that will need to be replaced there.


-Should I add something to protect these wires? Remove the NSS and rewrap the wires with electrical tape. They are easy to find so just replacing the switch might be a better option. There is a procedure to adjust this switch when you reinstall it.

If you don't have a shop manual I would advise getting one because they have some good diagrams and pictures to help with the repairs as well as the torque specs that you'll need.

-john
(jbojo)
351C 4V cc heads, 10.5 : 1 CR, 290 Herbert cam, Flat top forged pistons, forged connecting rods, Atomic efi,
C6 with Gear Vendor overdrive, 3.89 Tru Trac, Hooker Super Comp with 2 1/2" Pypes Exhaust.        

Some Mod pictures can be seen at:

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#3
funny story.... my C6 leaked. i replaced all the seals some more then once, i had the trans rebuilt, it kept leaking and weeping type F fluid.

i poured lucas leak stop in the transmission... it stopped leaking that was 5-6 years ago now, and over 7000 miles ago.

sometimes you just have to use leak stop.
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#4
jbojo;213891 Wrote:-What is the plug looking attachment? is this an adjustment for something? It's the intermediate band adjustment. There should be a seal on the nut to stop the leaks there. These are used once so you will need to buy the replacement parts here.

-Should I and what should I replace to fix these leaks? I assume some type of washer, o-ring or bushing. For the shifter lever if the leak is from there you will have to remove the NSS and oil pan. The nut that holds the shaft is inside the transmission. There is a bushing and O ring that will need to be replaced there.


-Should I add something to protect these wires? Remove the NSS and rewrap the wires with electrical tape. They are easy to find so just replacing the switch might be a better option. There is a procedure to adjust this switch when you reinstall it.

If you don't have a shop manual I would advise getting one because they have some good diagrams and pictures to help with the repairs as well as the torque specs that you'll need.

Thanks jbojo.
Just to double check, here is what I found.
This is the seal from the intermediate band adj screw:
http://www.npdlink.com/store/products/se...608-1.html

For the NSS I found this o-ring:
http://www.npdlink.com/store/index.php?p...tr=7B498-1

but I can't find the bushing. Also, I can't seem to find the NSS switch for a 1971 C6. They are either up to 1969 or from 1971:
http://www.npdlink.com/store/?p=catalog&...&year=1971
The NSS is kind of expensive so do you think the o-ring should be enough.

Thanks



        [Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
4-wheel disc brakes
  Reply
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