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Transmission advice
#11
(11-28-2018, 08:29 AM)JSOK Wrote: I just went through the same issue.  I ended up buying the rebuild video from Bad Shoe Productions and an FMX rebuild kit.  The video was about $40. (an excellent product).  The kit was about $100.  I paid a local tranny shop $20 to reinstall a piston seal.  I have not reinstalled the rebuilt FMX  yet, so i can't comment on how it works.   Rebuilding is not difficult.  You just need to be organized and pay close attention to details when working on the valve bodies to make sure you get everything back in the same way it came out.  

After all of my research, If I had an AOD, I would do the swap - since nobody seems to regret upgrading to an AOD (or a manual).  

If you decide to rebuild yourself,  I have a homemade spring compressor you can borrow (i'm on the SW side of Houston).

Good luck.

I found those videos from Bad Shoe Productions while looking up FMX tutorials on youtube. All I found was a video of a guy with a French accent disassembling the transmission. I have zero experience with transmissions so I felt like I was not getting much out of it (especially since my transmission is still in the car) and he seemed to use some specialty tools. Did you find you needed any specialty tools besides the spring compressor you mention?

I do not have a transmission jack, only a floor jack from Harbor Freight. My cheapest option there would be to get one of those adapters they sell on eBay for about $50 that mounts to the floor jack, but do not know how well they work.

Did you do a stock rebuild, or did you add a shift kit? What are you doing about the torque converter?

I will send you a PM as I am interested in your experience rebuilding the FMX.
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#12
The floor jack adapters will work, providing the saddle on your jack is removable and the pin is the right size. They are also available from Jegs, Amazon, and others.

Your floor jack probably won't reach as high or lower as far as a transmission jack.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#13
I have a FMX in my 69 Mach 1 and my 73 Mach 1. I rebuilt both of them in the past year. I have worked on cars for years, but had not rebuilt a transmission before. I ordered the FMX video from Bad Shoe Productions, and found it very straight forward. Ken is very knowledgable on the transmissions.

I purchased the spring compressor tool from Ken. I purchased the outer lip seal tool used from a transmission tool company.

As far as the transmission jack- I bored a hole in a 1x10 board and bolted it to the pad on my floor jack. Worked flawlessly after a little elbow grease.

All in all, I was able to rebuild both transmissions, with new stall convertors, rebuild kits, and shift kits for less than what one transmission would have cost for rebuild from local transmission shops.




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#14
I have been considering dropping the transmission and give it a shot at the rebuild using the Bad Shoe Productions video. I have never removed a transmission before either, but have seen a few videos on what the process is and found this post as well:

https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-tips...#pid163242

I took a look under my car and it seems part of the exhaust would need to be removed as well because the "H" pipe (red arrow) is right underneath the tailshaft housing. I have never removed exhaust parts either, but would assume I would need to unbolt from the exhaust manifolds (I do not have headers) and remove the clamps (yellow arrow) in the pic to remove that mid section. I would probably also have to remove that plate from the green arrow (I assume it's there because my car is a convertible) in order to remove the driveshaft. If I remove the exhaust part, is there a gasket where the downpipes bolt to the manifolds? I would not want to end up with an exhaust leak if I decide to give it a shot myself.

Thanks for the help guys.

[Image: IMG-20181213-070743.jpg]
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#15
Yes Exhaust section comes out as you described. I used Red RTV to seal up when putting back together (I am running headers). The plate should not need to come out to remove the driveshaft. You would unbolt driveshaft from rear end. it will slide forward into the trans enough for the back of the shaft to drop down and then pull it out from the back. (replace U-Joints while you have it out). The FMX is heavy. A trans jack is very helpful. I didn't have one and dropped it down onto my chest and just muscled it out, would prob not try that again. Loosen the adjustment on the parking brake cable so you can unhook it from the passenger side so you are not fighting that as well. To gain clearance under the car I nailed together a bunch of scrap pieces of 2x12 lumber about 12 pieces high with 2x4's nailed to each end and jacked up and put one under each tire. Much safer than jack stands in my opinion plus keeps the weight of the vehicle on the tires and suspension. The list Mr. 4x4 has in his post is perfect except he left out to remove the starter.

'73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

'73 F code convertible. Bright red. Needs total restore. (IE HOT MESS)

- Jason
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#16
Getting the exhaust pipes apart can be a real headache. The exhaust clamps place a groove into the pipes, making it difficult to separate, limited working room doesn't help. At least yours aren't rusted together.

There is no gasket between the exhaust pipes and exhaust manifolds. Here is a thread about it:
https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-351c...t-question?



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#17
I have one of the Harbor Freight transmission jacks. Worked great on my Safari when I swapped the trans by myself, although there was a lot more access to the trans compared to the Mustang. You use a ratchet to raise and lower, easier to control than a hydraulic jack. Plus, with the casters, if the vehicle is up higher enough, you just roll it out from under.

I agree with 73Pony, build some wide wood platforms to put the wheels of the car on instead of jackstands. I have some I use that have 2x4s screwed down on top in front and back of the wheels so it cant roll....safety is everything! If the car is level things are usually easier.

I do find it curious how people look at things...I'm more inclined to do the aod swap than try to rebuild a trans.
[Image: image-11238.jpg]
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#18
(12-13-2018, 11:36 AM)73pony Wrote: The list Mr. 4x4 has in his post is perfect except he left out to remove the starter.

Thanks for the kind words and heads up.  I updated it just now with 'unhook battery,' and 'remove starter.' Wink

Eric

[Image: mach1sig2.gif]
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#19
Here is a link to the wood stands I made for the car. Pic about 1/2 down the page.

https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-t-5-...ete?page=3

'73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

'73 F code convertible. Bright red. Needs total restore. (IE HOT MESS)

- Jason
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#20
I found a guy selling an FMX. He said it was rebuilt, he bought a new converter, installed it on a 60s/70struck, but never ran it. Then decided to go with an AOD instead. So he removed it and stored it. He added some tranny fluid to the converter and transmission.

When comparing it to my transmission, there seem to be a few differences. The bell housing seems a little different as mine does not have the part in the yellow circle in the pic below. I assume the bell housing difference would not make a difference unless it affects the kickdown rod. Other than that, my transmission has 3 different rods attached to it. In the pic below, white goes to the shifter, red to the kickdown rod and green to the steering box. The other transmission does not seem to have the one for the steering box. Would that mean I would need to swap that part from my transmission to the other one, or can I just leave it unhooked?

[Image: 295050d1a577270b75c2c0458a2b1840.jpg]

[Image: c9a1d1c938c9f52a569c41779e9cbf32.jpg]

[Image: 70d9a0ecf1022e3924a0b3dd6487ebf6.jpg]


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