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Towing
#1
There's a classic car club locally that I hope to join soon. Should be great for drive out's from the spring onwards. Just one thing that concerns me a little though. Some of the drives are to Chateau's and country houses and parking is likely to be on grass. My car is a 1971 CJ 429 with C6 auto transmission so I'm anticipating it may get stuck now and then! If it does, and a tow out (either forward or reverse) is necessary, although for only a short distance, where could a towing rope be attached without causing damage to either front or rear valances or anything else - if that's possible?

Thanks
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#2
Check the owner's manual or the Ford shop manuals. They give the info I am sure.
In the rear Ford bolted on two brackets for shipping the vehicles from the factory. They bolted onto the frame rails with three bolts. They use the same holes as the trailer hitch does. There was a sticker on the rear valance where the tag goes telling the dealership to remove them during dealer prep. Some go left on mine did because I specifically asked for no dealer prep. A dual exhaust car got long ones and single exhaust got short ones. They show up for sale on ebay and cl at times. Thousands of them got tossed for sure. They are handy if you trailer your car also. Not sure in front where to hook but manuals should tell. Here is screen print of the sticker. The holes for tying down are actually elongated slots to allow chain to go in. Two bolts through the rail and one coming up from the bottom. The .pdf has pictures and more info.
[Image: dec284.jpg]


Attached Files
.pdf   tie_down_v1.0.pdf (Size: 5.1 MB / Downloads: 10)


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
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#3
Many thanks David. I've had a quick check and the original rear tie down brackets (Dearborn) are still attached to the car. I'm not sure what the front arrangement was. I don't have the official Ford shop manual, yet, and the two other ones that I do have don't have any information. I'll have a google first but will have to get the official Ford one I'm sure anyway.
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#4
David's points are good to check for Fords recommended tow points. I would differ with David's suggestion on the factory tie down points. These were intended for vertical tie down and are higher than the bottom of the rear valance. If you look to attach here and then pull horizontally you will do damage to the valance. For rear ward towing I would recommend a two straps around each side of the center section on the rear axle. This would be sufficient to get pulled out from being stuck. The front cross member where the strut rods attach is also sufficient for pulling out from being stuck. I would also consult with the tow operator if you get in this situation. They do this for a living and hook to alot of different cars and have a wide variety of equipment to use to get to the correct locations on the car.

BKDunha
72 Mach 1 H-Code (Concourse driven restoration)
67 S-Code Factory GT with 4-Spd

68 Mercury Cyclone (Pro-Street project)
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#5
runninpony 
I would just stay out of the mud  Tongue

71-73 Mustangs never die, they just go faster!
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#6
(01-07-2019, 11:14 AM)bkdunha Wrote: David's points are good to check for Fords recommended tow points.  I would differ with David's suggestion on the factory tie down points.  These were intended for vertical tie down and are higher than the bottom of the rear valance.  If you look to attach here and then pull horizontally you will do damage to the valance.  For rear ward towing I would recommend a two straps around each side of the center section on the rear axle.  This would be sufficient to get pulled out from being stuck.  The front cross member where the strut rods attach is also sufficient for pulling out from being stuck.  I would also consult with the tow operator if you get in this situation.  They do this for a living and hook to alot of different cars and have a wide variety of equipment to use to get to the correct locations on the car.

All good information, thank you. Yes I'll check for clearances and, if possible, park on solid ground instead!
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#7
The owner's manual has a section on towing, with hookup points and an image showing a whole stack of lumber to protect the valances.

That said, I'd simply carry a tow strap and make sure someone has a couple pieces of 2x4 or 4x4. For getting off wet grass, you can loop the strap around the strut rod or engine crossmember. From the rear I'd go around the axle housing.


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#8
(01-08-2019, 09:51 AM)Hemikiller Wrote: The owner's manual has a section on towing, with hookup points and an image showing a whole stack of lumber to protect the valances.

That said, I'd simply carry a tow strap and make sure someone has a couple pieces of 2x4 or 4x4. For getting off wet grass, you can loop the strap around the strut rod or engine crossmember. From the rear I'd go around the axle housing.

Thanks Hemikiller, those would be useful things to carry for sure.
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#9
I haven't lowered my '71 Mach 1, and I gotta say, MAN! If I get stuck somewhere and need a tow, it's gotta be flatbedded, a "kneeling" flatbed even better. The Mach just sits too low for any hook to do any good, and you can't lift the rear, 'cause the front chin spoiler will drag......and you can't tow from the front 'cause you'll burn up the Trac-Loc rearend . Just changing a flat on the front is an adventure too. Thank God these events are rare.
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