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Total Control & Street or Track & Global West Strut Rod & Lower Control Arms
#31
All,

I may go back to the original strut rods. Has anybody used these strut rod bushings?

Global West SRB-5 strut rod Bushings

http://www.globalwest.net/srb-5.html

mustang7173
  Reply
#32
I am wondering if something is a miss here. You should not be getting that much feedback from the TCP Strut rods. The solid mount with spherical joints should allow "plenty" of movement that you should not be shaking the car to pieces, although it will be a slightly harsher ride, but not to the point you are describing. THE Global West units above look exactly like the Moog ones I purchased for a lot less money.

73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

- Jason


[Image: 082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg]
  Reply
#33
73pony,

So, what points are causing the road imperfections and noise transmissions?


[Image: 1973_ford_mustang_undercarriage.jpg]

[Image: 1973_ford_mustang_front_wheelwell_0.jpg]

Source: www.mustangandfords.com

Please respond to your thoughts on this subject!

mustang7173

file upload images
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#34
I have a few additional questions to be able to try to pin point the shaking... Just trying to help you out as you spent a considerable amount of money on this and would hate to see you have to take it back out.

What are you running for front shocks? Age?
What are you running for springs? Age? lowered? Do you have A/C?
Did you re-torque all of the bolts after a shakedown? Everything is tight as it should be?
What did you use for sway bar end links?

The level of shaking you described, IE the entire chassis and dash could point to a loose connection somewhere. Like I did state with the TCP design there will be some amount of additional vibration/harshness transfer to the chassis over a stock set up but again should not be to the extent that the dash is shaking or it feel like the car is going to shake to pieces.

Also, might be a silly question, how bad was the road you were driving on? I live in the Midwest and our roads are generally terrible, especially this time of year during the thaw cycle when the expansion joints on the roads start to close up too much too quickly causing a slight peak at each joint making it like driving on a washboard, not to mention all the pot holes caused by the salt and plow trucks. I am thinking you don't have this issue in NC though.

73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

- Jason


[Image: 082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg]
  Reply
#35
Hello 73pony,

That is it 73pony! " Like I did state with the TCP design there will be some amount of additional vibration/harshness transfer to the chassis over a stock set up but again should not be to the extent that the dash is shaking or it feel like the car is going to shake to pieces. "

I may have over stated the dash rattle. It just feels like it rattling with you drive on the road imperfection.

It rides nice and smooth with a good road. The whole front end has been rebuilt, with less the 500 miles. Now, one thing I have is the front springs are the 620 lbs. with one inch lowered. I have always stated to use the factory stated spring rate. This I may need to look into.

There is the trade off with the solid mounted parts. That is why I was looking into the better strut rod bushings for the stock rods to better isolate the noise/vibration.

mustang7173
  Reply
#36
You know how a shopping cart wheel can flutter as you push it? That might be part of what is going on if the last alignment shop gave you negative caster instead of positive caster. Curious what it turns out to be. Honestly the stock strut rod bushings will do a much better job of isolating vibration, but they deflect so much that your caster radically changes as you brake and or corner. I know my ride will be a rattle trap when it is done, but it should handle like a go kart.

Peter
  Reply
#37
(03-28-2017, 11:30 AM)Bentworker Wrote: You know how a shopping cart wheel can flutter as you push it?  That might be part of what is going on if the last alignment shop gave you negative caster instead of positive caster.  Curious what it turns out to be.  Honestly the stock strut rod bushings will do a much better job of isolating vibration, but they deflect so much that your caster radically changes as you brake and or corner.  I know my ride will be a rattle trap when it is done, but it should handle like a go kart.

Peter

That is an interesting thought on the negative caster. That wheel flutter could be exaggerating or amplifying the vibration for sure.

73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

- Jason


[Image: 082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg]
  Reply
#38
Hello,
I have a 71 mach 1 that has been undergoing a total overhaul of the powertrain and suspension and I recently took it on a test drive for the first time. I did the complete front end coilover varishock conversion along with the power rack and pinion steering, and the leaf spring and panhard rod plus sway bar rear suspension. All total control products hardware. I went with the 500 pound coil springs as the man at tcp suggested. 100% street driven. Big block 429 c6 auto.
My impressions of the end results going from factory ford suspension and steering to total control gear is this;
Factory: stiff and rubbery all at the same time, worst of both worlds. Hated it. Very dissapointing.

TCP upgraded gear: solidly controlled, not harsh, not bouncy, just right. Feel the road but not the bumps.
With varishocks on softest setting. Might try a little stiffer but not much. I preffer stiff springs and relaxed shocks on the street. Incredible improvement, very very pleased.

The steering is much improved also. Gone is the Lincoln / thunderbird
excessively easy one finger steering. Not a numb and over driven
Or over sensitive feel. I was afraid it would be twitchy , but it was not.
I really really like the change. The softer steering is what you might want on a personal luxury type car because it adds to the smooth and easy gliding feel of those cars. It feels out of place on a mustang.
The TCP rack is a better and I would say also a safer steering box. You are simply more in control as you drive.

Rear suspension: The car feels much more under control and planted.
Handles power well when nailing the throttle. Love it. No bounce and not rough.

Is it as good as a modern muscle car like a new mustang or Challenger?
No I would not say that.

Is it better than factory? Yes In a huge way. No question about it.
No comparison. It is superior in every way, there is no draw back or trade off
Except that it is no longer original. To me, if the factory suspension is very poor
And therefore not of any value. I have zero qualms about modifying it because I
Hated how it drove before. I say this about a factory 429 ram air car. Some people
would never consider modifying a cat of this value but it was so
flawed from the factory that it was an easy decision.



I also removed the original iron 429 motor and replaced it with
An all aluminum big block. I am sure the weight savings made
An improvement as well and contributed to the overall dynamic
improvement. I reckon it weighs around what a 351 clevland weighs.
I changed it all at once and the net effect was dramatically improved.
Before it felt like a heavy car but now it does not have that sense of mass
When you are moving along curvy roads.

I just wanted to add that I experienced no vibration or any harshness
I was expecting it to beat me up a little but I'd does not with the softer setting.
I was happily surprised that it really felt like the goldilocks just right feel I was hoping for.

I hope this helps anyone considering this upgrade.
I have no experience with any other companies products
For these years mustangs so I can not compare them.
I can say that I am extremely satisfied with the TCP parts
And of course the way that they were installed is critical.
I did use global west subframe connectors which look
Very nicely made.
  Reply
#39
Are you comparing it to a refurbished factory suspension or to the 46 year old deteriorated, hardened bushing suspension?

Please go to the introduction section and introduce yourself and your car. Be forewarned, we like pictures.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
  Reply
#40
(12-08-2018, 04:31 AM)Tyson Blair Wrote: Hello,
I have a 71 mach 1 that has been undergoing a total overhaul of the powertrain and suspension and I recently took it on a test drive for the first time. I did the complete front end coilover varishock conversion along with the power rack and pinion steering, and the leaf spring and panhard rod plus sway bar rear suspension. All total control products hardware. I went with the 500 pound coil springs as the man at tcp suggested. 100% street driven. Big block 429 c6 auto.
My impressions of the end results going from factory ford suspension and steering to total control gear is this;
Factory: stiff and rubbery all at the same time, worst of both worlds. Hated it. Very dissapointing.

TCP upgraded gear: solidly controlled, not harsh, not bouncy, just right. Feel the road but not the bumps.
With varishocks on softest setting. Might try a little stiffer but not much. I preffer stiff springs and relaxed shocks on the street. Incredible improvement, very very pleased.

The steering is much improved also. Gone is the Lincoln / thunderbird
excessively easy one finger steering. Not a numb and over driven
Or over sensitive feel. I was afraid it would be twitchy , but it was not.
I really really like the change. The softer steering is what you might want on a personal luxury type car because it adds to the smooth and easy gliding feel of those cars. It feels out of place on a mustang.
The TCP rack is a better and I would say also a safer steering box. You are simply more in control as you drive.

Rear suspension: The car feels much more under control and planted.
Handles power well when nailing the throttle. Love it. No bounce and not rough.

Is it as good as a modern muscle car like a new mustang or Challenger?
No I would not say that.

Is it better than factory? Yes In a huge way. No question about it.
No comparison. It is superior in every way, there is no draw back or trade off
Except that it is no longer original. To me, if the factory suspension is very poor
And therefore not of any value. I have zero qualms about modifying it because I
Hated how it drove before. I say this about a factory 429 ram air car. Some people
would never consider modifying a cat of this value but it was so
flawed from the factory that it was an easy decision.



I also removed the original iron 429 motor and replaced it with
An all aluminum big block. I am sure the weight savings made
An improvement as well and contributed to the overall dynamic
improvement. I reckon it weighs around what a 351 clevland weighs.
I changed it all at once and the net effect was dramatically improved.
Before it felt like a heavy car but now it does not have that sense of mass
When you are moving along curvy roads.

I just wanted to add that I experienced no vibration or any harshness
I was expecting it to beat me up a little but I'd does not with the softer setting.
I was happily surprised that it really felt like the goldilocks just right feel I was hoping for.

I hope this helps anyone considering this upgrade.
I have no experience with any other companies products
For these years mustangs so I can not compare them.
I can say that I am extremely satisfied with the TCP parts
And of course the way that they were installed is critical.
I did use global west subframe connectors which look
Very nicely made.
Sounds that you did a lot of work. Can you post pictures? I especially would like to see the rack and pinion mod. How is the installation of the rack?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

        [Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes
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