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TODAYS PICS...HOOD WORK
#11
sm3570;107227 Wrote:Scott - I read most of your post, but skimmed some parts so I may have missed it. I'm assuming that you would align the doors to the rear quarters first, then the fenders to the doors/doors to the fenders, then the fenders to the hood/hood to the fenders, then make little adjustments to get all panels aligned as best you can?

Or am I wrong here?
No your correct..door to otr & rocker panel.. then fender to door..then fender to hood..hood to fenders..then tweak all of the above for best overall fit..

droptop73;107235 Wrote:How would you adjust the hood trim to fender trim gaps?

Thanks Scott!
Once you get the fender to door on both sides..you move the hood around for equal gaps at the rear..you can then try moving only the front of the fenders for a equal gap at the front..watch the fender to door since moving the front of the fender too much will change the fender to door..your only gonna get it so good..If you want perfect close to even all the way down the fender to hood then you do what I did ...it's the only way..

LOVE OF BEAUTY IS TASTE..THE CREATION OF BEAUTY IS ART
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#12
Awesome advice, thanks again Scott.

Don65Stang;107244 Wrote:
sm3570;107227 Wrote:Scott - I read most of your post, but skimmed some parts so I may have missed it. I'm assuming that you would align the doors to the rear quarters first, then the fenders to the doors/doors to the fenders, then the fenders to the hood/hood to the fenders, then make little adjustments to get all panels aligned as best you can?

Or am I wrong here?

And somewhere in there, probably afterward the bumper to fender gap alignment. Not sure how to dial that one in but I hope Scott will share that technique with us.

Yeah, I've already dinged my new paint from the front bumper. Sad

Steve



[Image: 25yvyp3.jpg]
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#13
sm3570;107285 Wrote:Yeah, I've already dinged my new paint from the front bumper. Sad
Any time your fitting installing parts on a painted car you tape up the adjacent surfaces with a minimum of 3 layers of tape 5 is better..Just a little tip..

LOVE OF BEAUTY IS TASTE..THE CREATION OF BEAUTY IS ART
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#14
LOL thanks. I know I should have done that but as usual I wasn't thinking.

Steve



[Image: 25yvyp3.jpg]
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#15
After comparing my all original, never in an accident, factory gaps car to Scott's car Ive determined my car needs the car equivalent of an orthodontist. Probably would be about the same fee as braces. lol

I'll never look at cars again without focusing on the gaps thanks to this thread.

[Image: 386_07_10_13_5_58_42.jpeg]
My Mustangs:
71 M-code Mach 1, Medium Blue/White Sport, 4R70W, 3L50, Factory Ram Air.
72 Q-code Mach 1, Pewter/Black Sport, 4-spd, 3L25.
65 Convertible, Britney Blue/White/White, more modified than original.
05 Convertible, Legend Lime/Tan/Tan, future classic??
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#16
Don65Stang;107297 Wrote:I'll never look at cars again without focusing on the gaps thanks to this thread.
You have been educated to a whole new level..Walk around any car show..& be prepared to see great paint jobs then bang ill fitting panels bad gaps..It always amazes me that so much time & effort could be put into a resto paint job but very little put into gaps panel alignment..A quick tip for anyone doing a resto paint job where your going to remove body panels..You should ALWAYS index mark the panels BEFORE you remove them (as shown in my video drilling 1/8" holes for 1/8" alignment pins) ..Although they may not be your final index marks, it allows you to always come back to home or where you started from..

LOVE OF BEAUTY IS TASTE..THE CREATION OF BEAUTY IS ART
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#17
When you made the individual line of welds did you use any type of copper backing?

How'd you file them into a perfect straight line?

[Image: 386_07_10_13_5_58_42.jpeg]
My Mustangs:
71 M-code Mach 1, Medium Blue/White Sport, 4R70W, 3L50, Factory Ram Air.
72 Q-code Mach 1, Pewter/Black Sport, 4-spd, 3L25.
65 Convertible, Britney Blue/White/White, more modified than original.
05 Convertible, Legend Lime/Tan/Tan, future classic??
  Reply
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