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Tips on removing FMX
Hey guys! So I have searched and couldn't find anything related to this. I am going to be swapping to a t5 transmission and want to do it with the least amount of headache as possible!! Lol, so my question is how to quickly and easily remove the fmx transmission. I was doing some research, and some bellhousings don't have an access plate? What is the correct procedure for removing the fmx and torque converter? Thanks so much for your help!!
It's pretty much straight-forward, just like any other automatic transmission:
  • unhook battery
  • remove starter
  • drain the fluid
  • remove driveshaft
  • remove flywheel access/inspection plate
  • rotate to remove torque converter bolts
  • remove transmission cooling lines
  • unplug electrical connections
  • unhook speedometer cable
  • unhook linkage
  • loosen brackets and bell housing bolts
  • remove transmission with torque converter

If you can't get to the torque converter bolts to remove them (my engine was seized, so I couldn't rotate them to the open inspection area), you can simply pull the transmission straight out of the torque converter (leaving it bolted to the flywheel). It'll make a huge mess when the fluid dumps, but it can be done.

Hope that helps.


[Image: mach1sig2.gif]
It's heavy!

Be careful.

73 conv. 460, D0VE large valve heads, Performer RPM manifold, Voodoo 227/233 cam, Holley 950 HP carb, C6 trans, 3.25 trak-loc.
I am going to suggest you plan to go ahead and pull the engine and transmission as a unit.

When you convert to a manual, you have to install a new bellhousing and to do it properly, you need to check it for runout and adjust the mounting pins with offset pins if necessary. You also have to add provisions for the clutch pedal and whatever style linkage you are going to run. You will need a pilot bearing in the crank (bearings are better than bushings) and you will also need to set up the clutch and pressure plate. You are going to need to change to a different starter and will need a new cross member that may or may not have to be aftermarket since the T-5 didn't come in the 71-73 body style.

Almost all of this is much easier to do out in the open, rather than under a car.

[Image: 1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png]

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!
I would agree with Jeff73Mach1. It is not a simple remove one and drop the other in. Removing the motor is also going to give you access to the clutch linkage area. I would propose considering that.

72 Mach 1 H-Code (Concourse driven restoration)
67 S-Code Factory GT with 4-Spd

68 Mercury Cyclone (Pro-Street project)
bkdunha;163263 Wrote:I would agree with Jeff73Mach1. It is not a simple remove one and drop the other in. Removing the motor is also going to give you access to the clutch linkage area. I would propose considering that.

Unless - you have some kind of tried & true "FMX Replacement Kit" from a known vendor... or some kind of laundry list of the absolute correct replacement parts from someone you trust. Cool

I only mentioned that because they guy I got my AOD from rolled into my shop with a T-5 swap kit for his '89 GT 5.0, and rolled back out 4 hours later under T-5 power, with the AOD left behind on the bench.

If you don't have something like that, then yes - you might want to just pull the engine as well (after pulling the tranny, that is). My experience is that pulling it out as a complete unit is a MAJOR PITA. Dodgy


[Image: mach1sig2.gif]
It is a bit more work to pull them together, but my point was less about that, than about pulling the motor also. If working on a lift with a full shop of tools, doing it on the car isn't so bad, but at home, setting up everything is more difficult. Once you pull a transmission, the engine is going to shift/tilt forward unless you block it from underneath. For this reason, pulling the fan, shroud and radiator are going to make your life easier. Once they are out of the way it is heater hoses, fuel line, unplug wiring, unhook exhaust, and yank that puppy out.

[Image: 1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png]

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!
First off, thanks so much guys for the prompt replies!! I really appreciate it!! Big GrinBig GrinBig Grin
Thanks Mister 4x4, on the list, I just heard from someone that possibly it doesn’t have an inspection plate, but they apparently are very wrong! I removed a couple transmissions before, but since I am not home I cannot physically look under my car, but have to go with whats on the internet, which at times can be scary!!
And thanks Jeff73Mach1 for the advice, but unfortunately I cannot go that route. It is too much work for me to do, and I don’t have the space, nor tools, nor time to do that. I already have a T-5 bellhousing, and the linkage is going to be hydraulic. So it is going to have a slave cylinder which I will mount to the bellhousing before I put it in the car. Also, the cross member I will be either buying or make myself. I also heard that my starter would work for this, as it bolts right into the t5 bellhousing, but I might be wrong.
Mister 4x4, I do have a laundry list of parts, of the list, the parts I have are as follows:
-T5 that can handle ~450hp
-Center force clutch
-Hurst shifter
-clutch fork and dust cover
-Transmission mount
-slave cylinder
I need:
-wilwood clutch pedal and master cylinder
-block plate
-throw out and pilot bearing
-crossmember (might be able to reuse my stock one)
-assorted bolts
So with that, I feel like I am on the right track, as the most difficult thing, to mount the slave cylinder will be done on a bench. And yes, Jeff I will most likely block the engine so that it doesn’t shift forward. All I know is that places charge around $3500 for this whole kit and I have spent only $610 so far. I bought everything except the bellhousing from a guy who had his fox wrecked after only putting 5000 miles on it, so I certainly made out!! The rest is a bunch of smaller items. I also am currently a full time student in college, so I really don’t have a lot of funds. That’s why I am going this route and buying as much I can second hand, and doing a different pedal setup. The pedal setup is cheap and effective!!
Sweet! It definitely sounds like you're right on track then. thumb

Jeff and BK - I totally agree on pulling the engine and tranny as well. It will offer so much more access to the areas needed to make the swap much easier. When I dropped my engine in though, the mounts on the 351C were pretty much balanced on the mid-way point, so there was very little tilting forward or backward without the tranny being bolted up. Surprised me, too... I was expecting the engine to tilt one way or the other without the transmission to keep it level.

Good luck and keep us posted. If you can get a bunch of pictures and are willing to do a write-up of your experiences, it would make a fine addition to our "How To" section... as I'm sure others would be interested in a similar swap.


[Image: mach1sig2.gif]
the fmx gearbox comes off the bell housing if push comes to shove. my best tip it to get friends to assist because that SOB is heavy, and difficult to weave out.
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