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Tips for removal of distributor shaft clip
#1
I searched and I was surprised to not find threads discussing the removal of the clip on top of the distributor shaft. I am probably not using the right terminology. I want to remove the breaker plate of the distributor to check the mechanical advance and also being able to examine the weight numbers. To get to that I am struggling with the removal of the wire clip that sits on top of the shaft. I can't seem to figure out a way to remove it, and I can't even think about installing it.
Hopefully some of you have gone down this path and can give me a pointer.

Thank you.

        [Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
4-wheel disc brakes
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#2
Try lightly prying up on the cam, to keep a little pressure on the clip while working at the clip with small sharp pointed screwdriver or dental pick. Hardest part of rebuilding the distributor, for sure.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#3
+1 on Don's post. I've also used a small pick and miniature needle nose pliers. If it goes flying when it comes off. it is almost impossible to find. Ask me how I know. Chuck
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#4
(09-14-2018, 11:35 AM)c9zx Wrote: +1 on Don's post. I've also used a small pick and miniature needle nose pliers. If it goes flying when it comes off. it is almost impossible to find. Ask me how I know. Chuck

I was thinking about that. Knowing my luck that will be a given. Are these clips available for sale somewhere? In any case, I will try to place a tent around the thing so to keep the clip contained.

        [Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
4-wheel disc brakes
  Reply
#5
(09-14-2018, 11:35 AM)c9zx Wrote: +1 on Don's post. I've also used a small pick and miniature needle nose pliers. If it goes flying when it comes off. it is almost impossible to find. Ask me how I know. Chuck

Ahhh, the pitwangee spring , I usually find that kind of stuff 6 months after I waited two weeks for the hard to find little parts.
use the straw from a can of carb spray and a couple of finishing nails and slip the straw over each of the two nails with just enough straw left to go over each end of the clip...
e like chop sticks with a tiny screwdriver between the two pieces you fabricated as a lever.
Boilermaster
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#6
I wonder if this is why Cardone Select for instance, replaced that pesky spring thingy with a Phillips head screw!!
I looked through my pictures from when I finally figured out how to rebuild and recurve my dizzy for what I wanted out of the 351C 4V, but did not have one of that spring clip. It is a PITA for sure as the spring ends need to be spread apart. I used very small needle nose pliers to spread them and dislodge from the groove, then was able to lift it out...…… and that's when it went across the workshop!! I got lucky though and found it right away. Next time I placed a rag over the top to contain it. After doing this several times, it got to be easy. Don't forget the oil pad!!
From  MY own findings, working on a 351 4V M code (71), my suggestion would be to weld and recut a slot to .410" wide, L10 or 20 degrees on the crank. Set the springs with 1 heavy factory spring set with just a small amount of free play and use a Mr. Gasket 925D on the other side. Use a Pertronix II and matching coil, then set the initial to 14 degrees to start with and set the vacuum at no more than 6 degrees (if needed at all) on top. i.e. 20*+14 = 34* + 6 vac. See how it runs then try bumping to 16* initial.
This subject has come up many times and Tony is no stranger to it, but newer members may benefit. These motors (other than the Boss) were set for early emissions and were retarded to an initial of 6 degree with an L15 slot width which totals 36* mechanical, so it is no wonder that they ping like crazy on the crappy gas we have these days.
Geoff.


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#7
Remove that clip last weekend. I don't know if it's different per year/type, on my autolite its, a ring that end up with 2 vertical ends. a small flat screwdriver to excenter a tad toward middle and a "twist" movement after that freed it from the groove. Took a few tries to get the right movement. Placing it back was more easy, just used thin players pressed and went down in shaft and depressed.

[If it goes flying when it comes off. it is almost impossible to find. Ask me how I know. Chuck]
+1, not just for that, but for all the tiny clips I've used a magnet near them while busy and if you would lay a cloth/kitchen paper on top before trying you would also prevent they turn UFO (unexpected flying object). The arm of the vac unit for instance has on this unit a really tiny ear clip and you are sure you will not find it back before you would have found a new one first Smile

73 modified Grandé 351C. Almost done. 
71 429CJ. In progress
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#8
Thanks for all the great ideas. This reminds me that I have a set of forceps pliers that may help.

        [Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
4-wheel disc brakes
  Reply
#9
(09-14-2018, 02:42 PM)Stanglover Wrote: I wonder if this is why Cardone Select for instance, replaced that pesky spring thingy with a Phillips head screw!!

Makes good sense. I wonder if they can be drilled and tapped to accept a screw.

        [Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
4-wheel disc brakes
  Reply
#10
(09-14-2018, 03:23 PM)tony-muscle Wrote:
(09-14-2018, 02:42 PM)Stanglover Wrote: I wonder if this is why Cardone Select for instance, replaced that pesky spring thingy with a Phillips head screw!!

Makes good sense. I wonder if they can be drilled and tapped to accept a screw.

May be, never looked at that option. You'll need a lock washer under the screw though.
Pic is not too clear, but I think you can see it on this already changed Cardone Select dizzy. Oh! there are metric threads in these puppies.
Geoff.


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