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Tim's 1973 Mach 1 rebuild thread
#1
Here in this thread I want to present the story of my mustang since it passed into my possession in autumn 2013 so far. It is a 1973 Mach 1, T5 (Europe/Germany export-model), 4 speed manual with a 351 Cleveland 4V Q-code (an inofficial Cobra Jet) with some modifications.

Last Sunday I was able to enjoy my first real driving after half a year of working on it. The first time that no funny noises, unwanted pointer-actions or other bloating occurred - pure pleasure. Man, that was cool - the grin did not go away until today! That was the final confirmation to have this car!

I want to dedicate this thread to the long-term and careful restoration of my Mustang. Everything will be kept as original as possible but I will be also not closed against modern modifications. Full "back to the roots" I do not want - some modifications also have quite its meaning and would detract from the fun yet. New works I will paste here again to keep you posted now.

All the work I'm doing at myself - but with partly great support of my dear friend Oliver I have gained through this car and I would like to thank for his dedication, his perseverance, his time and our friendship. Without him I would not be nearly this far and poorer by many experiences and learning processes. But as he says so beautifully: mounting for two is simply fun! He's right - it's a give and take ...

Also many thanks to my wife who gives me the time to do everything about my obsession and is also happy with me!

Here is the story :

The purchase was the one - the accommodation of the car the other.

Here some pics after buying it from the seller, Markus:

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But, before I was able to work on the Mustang properly I had to first build a little workshop in a industrial hall.

Luckily I was able to shelter the vehicle by another good friend, Marc, until I had finished. Thanks also to him at this point for 2 months free parking in the underground garage. The only reason I was able to get the car before and turn the first screw. Here is the picture of my first ride from the seller, Markus, in his new interim home - everything went smoothly and I was overjoyed. My wife was driving behind full of spare parts in her car :

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Here are the pictures of the workshop, before and after :

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A day before the onset of winter it finally happened - here the first image with Mustang in the garage shortly after 20:00 pm - at night it began to snow :

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First we went to the intrinsic values since the car did not run as it should. First came the retrofitted Edelbrock carburetor with manual joke down again. To the car I got an original early Autolite 4300 D from 1970 that Oli has overtaken me. This is the uncleaned original constitution:

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And I changed to the original Mach 1 steering wheel and Hurst shift knob after cleaning them up too.

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Then I changed out the ignition to a Pertronix I - here is the "original" Autolite system - original was a dual breaker point distributor - but he does his work well...

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The original intake manifold was no longer present but the Offenhauser aluminum intake manifold seemed not bad to be. Together with the old-school valve covers this looks good. Between the carb and the intake manifold then came a 4V spacer to give the whole thing a little more flow.

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The car got a basic setup but did not seem to go as it could and wanted to. The cold starts were very bad. After there was something liquid from the area of intake manifold coming out we decided to replace the intake manifold gasket completely. By disassembling it we noticed that the intake manifold does not sit properly fixed...

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After many hours of work and good hope the car was back to not really good starting and idling. During the test run we saw some water between the left cylinder head and the block... That was not a good sign and the decision quickly made: engine back out, heads down Confused !

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Fortunately an encouraging picture - the original fabrication marks on the cylinder surfaces were still visible and the block has not yet been overhauled. The cylinders itself looked good too. In one we saw a piece of metal like a carburetor linkage - quickly get it out! The compression we had measured before - all 10 to 11 bar so still in good order without outliers. The water seemed to have gone luckily only outwardly - phew ! ...

Now ready for cleaning:

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The heads itself turned out to be a closed chamber 4V from 1970. One of the first Cleveland heads for the 71er. There must be one that have thought about something at least in the selection of components many years ago. Unfortunately even the heads went down far too easily. But the screws for the original exhaust headers fortunately too. The valve guides were bushed - not so good - 2 cracks on the original guidances and the tolerances were not so perfect. After much deliberation we decided to leave it that way but incorporate stronger valve springs from the boss to balance it a little.

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The back of the valves showed that the car probably the last few years as has been always moved only very briefly and then with too fat carb. One millimeter thick layer of pressed coal! So first of all get down with the dirt and then to the valves . In the right head there were also quite a large number of fine wires - remnants of a defunct oil cap and its wire mesh - it really does not hurt to look for the right from time to time...

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The heads amd valves were all cleaned, reshot and the valve seat also.

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Where we had been down the heads Oli had the idea to rework the intake ports or to polish them. I was skeptical at first but considering the fact that I had had a pair of 4V closed chamber heads in good original condition from 1971 as a spare too I let him go.

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Clean and heads mounted:

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Now we decided to change the valve springs into the Boss ones - unfortunaltely after reassembling the heads... Rolleyes

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A fresh package of Motorcraft sparks will do better Smile

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All reassembled and repeatedly tightened correctly

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Then came the big moment :

The big buddy immediately started and ran like a pig! Me and Oli were overjoyed - problem solved!!!

dancebanana chili

Tim

Never drive faster than your guardian angel can fly Angel
  Reply
#2
Next I wanted my big buddy to be a bit more "muscular" with 2,5" pipes and headers. That's what I bought from Summit:

http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/ho.../overview/

and this

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-680111

and paired it with a new pair of Flowmaster American Thunder Mufflers 2,5". It fits except for the staggered shocks for which we had to do a little fixing. The Turbo Mufflers of the summit set also didn't fit because the have no centered outlet als pictured but left inlet and right outlet wich is too much width for the staggered shocks!

The headers also needed a lot of fiddling because of their big welding seam which is thought as a direct gasket to the heads. But that was not acceptable for my friend Oliver and me so we decided to flatten them and weld them a little better too for a direct snug fit to the heads. Man, that was a long day and a short night...

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For a exhaust gas oxygen lambda sensor

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The old crap out of 3 sorts of Mustangs

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Finished

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The sound know is perfect - brute when gaining speed but not too loud by cruising. The whole thing with the Flowmasters don't drone on the important range from 50 to 75 mph! But when I kick the pedal they bring out the hell on earth Big Grin

My Mustang gained a lot more kick in several rpm ranges after this so it was all successful - I am happy with it!

Tim

Never drive faster than your guardian angel can fly Angel
  Reply
#3
In the meantime I switched to the electrical sector of my big buddy - in the engine compartment and behind the dashboard. First I stripped away some ugly tangle of wire under the dash und threw out the aftermarket radio - it was horrible:

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I changed out the weird turn signal switch in complete - a new turn signal cam brought no improvement - you will see why

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It was my luck that none of the original plugs was cut so I was able to prepare everything back to the original connections. But there was a lot of repair to do because there were many cables disconnected and frazzled out.

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I made every switch working again. I replaced the lighting switch, made a functional cigarette lighter out of a new and the original one and reworked my rear window defroster switch out of the original one and a convertible top switch.

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The famous instrument voltage regulator was changed out to an electronical one precautionally too

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Here is some of my original color under the dash Heart

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I brought back the horns to live and they are completely functional over the original Mach 1 steering wheel chili

I did some researching over the relays too and they all are fully functional now. I will post a picture of the complete set later with all of their functions. I had to add two buzzers - now it is a real buzzer concert if you have the engine running, open the drivers door and enfasten your seatbelt Big Grin

Aside from that I proved every sloppy connection in the engine compartment and there were a lot! I changed and repaired a lot of wires. I changed the whole lighting system to a switched relay system to avoid dimming lights with modern bulbs. I also added a fuse box for that and gave the horns a relay too. I switched the old worn out voltage regulator to a modern electronical one because of the original Motorcraft heavy duty alternator with 70 amp. The voltage regulator only had 55 amp - no wonder the lights were flickering too Rolleyes

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That's the whole new unit overhauled - any ideas to sort the small cables a bit more in a authentically way?

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And the best: it works all perfect as it should!

Overhauling the electric I looked after the interior too. The original dashboard showed some signs of other colors than original and the pad has passed away long ago and was covered with an ugly hard-plastic cover...

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It was all original

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So I sanded it all down with a copper brush and I found 4 different color layers

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I primed it all and gave it 2 cans of medium ginger laquer from Scott Drake

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The freshly imported original tooling ginger dashpad got an additional layer of medium ginger vinyl dye to match the new dash color too. It looks perfect! I am very satisfied with the result - the spray can laquers of scott drake are a pleasure to work with and they dry in minutes! Very recommendable... And the medium ginger colour is not too light in shade as often mentioned - it is damn accurate. Dark ginger I also ordered would have been too dark - for the dash.

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In parallel I worked on the door panels too. I ordered a pair from Don from Ohio Mustang with the right clamps - a real good looking pair. The quality is really good compaired to the original ones

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I decided too change them out because of the elbow-checked spot on the drivers side original one. I will keep the original ones safe until somebody is able to repair that because otherwise they are in a very good condition. So meanwhile I protect them with the newer ones. I had to cut out the door handle with a compressed air hand saw and adapt the original parts from the old panel. It all went well. The most complicated part was to install the chrome trim from Re-Pops with the clamps - but after stitching a few times into my hands and after installing the knife-sharp! door clamps it is looking very good

With flash
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Without flash
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Thats my console I bought from user 73Ford last year - I had to drill new holes in the tunnel because of the formerly small mini-console

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It is working all fine and fits perfect - love the tic-toc-clock Smile

I will add some detailed pics of my renewed interior later...

Tim

Never drive faster than your guardian angel can fly Angel
  Reply
#4
Tim, Great write up. You´ve achieved a lot in that period of time.
As for the wires, turn them into a harness by wrapping them in tape. Simple but effective.
Ain´t it grand to take such a car for a spin and everything works? I love it when I can throw a 43 year old switch and everything does what it is supposed to do.
We gotta work something out, so I will stop by and have a look at your Mustang. I´ll bring mine along and we´ll terrorize the neighborhood. Smile
If that doesn´t help, we´ll crank up the Marshalls and turn them to 11. Smile

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Mike

"If I were you...... I´d rather be me."  Tongue

Check out my video:
http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-my-mustang-in-action

  Reply
#5
luxstang;175884 Wrote:Tim, Great write up. You´ve achieved a lot in that period of time.
As for the wires, turn them into a harness by wrapping them in tape. Simple but effective.

Thank you, Mike! And that's not the end - I will keep an update the next minutes Wink

Good tip - that's what I have done with some other wires too - cool Smile

luxstang;175884 Wrote:Ain´t it grand to take such a car for a spin and everything works? I love it when I can throw a 43 year old switch and everything does what it is supposed to do.

YES - you're right - THAT'S IT. I love that feeling when all for what it was supposed to be is functional after such a period of time. That's a great feeling - it smells even good Big Grin

luxstang;175884 Wrote:We gotta work something out, so I will stop by and have a look at your Mustang. I´ll bring mine along and we´ll terrorize the neighborhood. Smile
If that doesn´t help, we´ll crank up the Marshalls and turn them to 11. Smile

Hahaha, count me in, buddy! That will mess them up for sure Big GrinBig GrinBig Grin

Hope to see you anytime, Mike! Btw: do you spend a visit there:

http://www.mustangclub.de/index.php/50-j...angmeeting

I'm in with my wife and some other crazy mustang dudes such as my best friend and mustang-doctor Oliver Smile

Tim

Now to the last big repair my friend Oli and I did a few weeks ago. After driving a little here and there I discovered that the Mustang always lost water after parking and that he always ran too hot regarding the gauges movement. 3 of the freeze plugs were passing away and let the water coming out in lots of drops. After cooling down the engine they sucked in air we assumed so that there was air in the cooling system every time and it could not cool down the engine properly. As a result of this we decided to pull out the engine to change out the freeze plugs and to check out if everything other is in order. By this chance we had to change the clutch too. That was a 24 hours working action with 6 hours of sleep. But it should be worth it...

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Nice freeze plugs - they could easily been punctured through - high time to change them out

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Time to flush the whole system - what a sludge...

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Georgius - new plugs in there

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Worn out clutch against new

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All in there

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Some beauty treatment

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Yeah - the original q-code block - now confirmed

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Reassembled with new paint and the new 7 qt Moroso oil pan

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And back to work Smile

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Started immediately and it was a pleasure to drive with. No overheating! All systems operated well - no water loss, right temperature and oil pressure as showed by the gauges - I was delighted Big Grin

The only thing that felt weird at first was the clutch. The pedal "stuck" literally on the ground and went back only reluctantly. Soon the error was clear: a lack of one of the 3 springs which is necessary for correct operation of the clutch mechanism. A brake spring had to serve for the original - the real one will come these days from Ohio Mustang!

So my first ride could come Smile

Tim

Never drive faster than your guardian angel can fly Angel
  Reply
#6
My first horseback ride last sunday - cannot get the grin out of my face until today Big Grin

It drives like a sledgehammer with some sweet roaring. Everywhere enthusiastic faces and comments - I was overwhelmed. Could ran some 120 mph togehter with my friend and his '69 Mach 1 on the german autobahn - awesome!!!

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The next projects are awaiting me yet - brake system check, trac-lok differential and beauty work... I will keep you posted soon!

Tim

Tim

Never drive faster than your guardian angel can fly Angel
  Reply
#7
Dear Resto-fans, I would like to revive my resto thread again - there is a lot to do!

Reason for my silence in the recent months was less laziness but rather enjoyment of driving so I've actually made only several details which I now do not want to deprive you.

Meanwhile I am so far that I have completely disassembled the engine because of a connection rod bearing failure which has spoiled last year's season's end - but more on that later. The engine is half back together and I have not missed the opportunity to increase my certified 281.5 hp Big Grin

To top it all I then would like to restore the original look and shine in its original color "Gold Glow". And this all until Pentecost - a little pressure never hurts Big GrinBig GrinBig Grin

But first a few pictures of the great "driving season" in 2014, which was crowned by the visit to "50 years of Mustang" in Cologne - an awesome party!


My "homies" from the area
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Start to 50 years of Mustang in Cologne

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A few small jobs over the year. I had ordered a couple of used parts from Don - thanks Don - they are great!

Oil cap stripped, cleaned, painted with black satin finish and fitted with a new PCV ring - the oil has always pushed by the rubber and oiled my left cylinder bank

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De-rusted and painted PCV pipe

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Then a new PCV valve with angle mounted- at the rear connection to the carburetor I had to improvise a little. The PCV pipe is for a 73er carburetor, which has a much smaller PCV-flange - the tube is normally inserted and held with a piece of hose. Here I have 2 different sizes - the PCV flange of the 1970 Auto Lite 4300D is much larger - so I did hose in hose...

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Now for the fine specimens of the engine compartment - the horns...

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The original paint was very peeled off and a little bit rusty - so first everything down with the copper brush and by hand, light scratches with a fine pad, little rust converter and beautiful semi-gloss lacquered - voilà:

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Here is also a rare piece, already refreshed by mine:

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The so-called "radio bracket" - the ground connection to the body in the radio slot for my original '73 AM / FM / 8-track radio - even behind the music plays Big Grin

Since my speedometer wasn't correct in mph it was about time to change the speedo gear. It was no wonder that it was not the correct fit: with my big slippers in the rear (275/60R15) and the original 20 pinion gear the mph on the speedometer was lower than in real! So I needed a 18 pinion according to my calculations. Here it is - the process was quite simple:

Loosen the screw, remove the clamp and speedo cable:
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Loosen the clamp of the pinion carefully so it can be reused:
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cleaning
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Mounting of new pinion and the old clamp
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Done Wink
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Now the Speedometer is GPS-accurate Big Grin

Here's a calculator with which you can calculate the needed pinion:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/2450...lector.xls

Here is a page to calculate the required diameter of the wheels:

http://tire-size-conversion.com/tire-size-calculator/

Tim

My braces I have given the original look again:

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And the headlight rings too

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My unfortunately by the previous owner cut up center console was irretrievably lost due to numerous wallpaper knife cuts because of an unsuccessful replacement experiment for the wooden foils. It was replaced by a repro from Don. And I have to say: this repop part is something really good - probably the best I've had so far! Thanks, Don!

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Thanks to an original! Ginger sports steering wheel in flawless condition (the broken horn ring I could very easily replace with an original NOS part) my interior looks like this now - I think, perfect!

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I love it Heart !!!

Then it was time - out with the miserable rascal!

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diagnosis:

a connecting rod bearing of the first cylinder has been pushed under the other so it neatly nailed to the crankshaft bearings and sanded this elliptical. Unfortunately not reusable at first... Confused

Fortunately nothing other happens and I got an original Cleveland crankshaft when I bought my Mach 1 with freshly machined 0.010 (connecting rod bearings) and 0.020 (crankshaft bearings) undersize Smile

A week later after a short online-trip to Summit it was really Christmas Big Grin

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In the meanwhile I got an original set of alloy wheels from 1973 incl. orig. caps from Roland from Austria

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[Image: dsc_046674p63.jpg]

a little polishing and they are perfect!

Since I did not have them out of factory but only hubcaps (which I still have) and my father has a 73 Q-code T5 Convertible which has noted them on the Marti Report I have decided to give it him for his convertible. All he knows nothing about it so SHHHHT SleepyWink

With the rims and the already purchased rear spoiler which was once on his car it will be probably the most original T5 1973 - convertible in the world. But more important for me - to see my daddy happy Heart I will look around for a couple of other rims when my money bag will allow this! A little wider in the rear should do the trick too...

Tim

Never drive faster than your guardian angel can fly Angel
  Reply
#8
Then it went right to the whole disassembly of the engine:

[Image: dsc_0341d8roj.jpg]

First, clean and completely blow-out so that he can breathe freely again. Despite a one year ago already made cleaning there still came out lots of muck ...

After cleaning
[Image: dsc_0421jyqzg.jpg]

The cylinders look very good, even great to see all the machining tracks - original measure!

Then cleaning the pistons from the carbon deposits, rh before - lh after
[Image: dsc_04934fp3l.jpg]

They look still really good, original measure can therefore be preserved!


New piston rings
[Image: dsc_05197tq54.jpg]

Fresh bearings everywhere!
[Image: dsc_05124mo8z.jpg]

[Image: dsc_0510ujrhy.jpg]


Camshaft - out with the old bearings
[Image: dsc_0498fuplb.jpg]


New ones in
[Image: dsc_05012gpb1.jpg]


The new camshaft
[Image: dsc_0504sbodr.jpg]

A COMP Cam Xtreme Energy .274 (Hydraulic Flat Tappet) - to properly bring pressure in the mid to late rpm-range + some more hp Big Grin


[Image: dsc_0505wvpzc.jpg]

[Image: dsc_051465qwc.jpg]

[Image: dsc_0513jgp55.jpg]


Not to forget
[Image: dsc_0502cbq71.jpg]

Tim

Never drive faster than your guardian angel can fly Angel
  Reply
#9
Wow. you have done a lot of work and your car looks awesome. Keep the updates coming.

-john
(jbojo)
351C 4V cc heads, 10.5 : 1 CR, 290 Herbert cam, Flat top forged pistons, forged connecting rods, Atomic efi,
C6 with Gear Vendor overdrive, 3.89 Tru Trac, Hooker Super Comp with 2 1/2" Pypes Exhaust.        

Some Mod pictures can be seen at:

  Reply
#10
Next to the crankshaft and its bearings:
[Image: dsc_0515zwovs.jpg]


And in Smile
[Image: dsc_05165eq1q.jpg]


timing chain from COMP Cam
[Image: dsc_0527cyp11.jpg]


Last but not least the pistons - fine-balanced - so the red numbers on top of it ... Big Grin
[Image: dsc_0526tgqja.jpg]


Finished!
[Image: dsc_0531___paqsr.jpg]


For NOW! You are now all up to date and I can go on Big Grin In a few days I will go on - then the heads will be tuned Wink



Tim

jbojo;214709 Wrote:Wow. you have done a lot of work and your car looks awesome. Keep the updates coming.

Thank you very much, Jbojo! I will, I will... Wink

Tim

Tim

Never drive faster than your guardian angel can fly Angel
  Reply
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