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Thoughts on Royal Purple oil
#1
Wondering if anyone has experiences with Royal Purple oil, good or bad. I am debating on switching to that oil and would like opinions.
thx

-john
(jbojo)
351C 4V cc heads, 10.5 : 1 CR, 290 Herbert cam, Flat top forged pistons, forged connecting rods, Atomic efi,
C6 with Gear Vendor overdrive, 3.89 Tru Trac, Hooker Super Comp with 2 1/2" Pypes Exhaust.        

Some Mod pictures can be seen at:

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#2
i've used royal purple engine break in oil for 7 year. its the only conventional oil that royal purple makes and is labeled designed for flat tappet lifters. the oil is 10W-30

oil tests show it as
29. Royal Purple 10W30 Break-In Oil conventional = 62,931 psi
zinc = 1170 ppm
phos = 1039 ppm
ZDDP = 1100 ppm

Engine break in oil is suppose to allow some wear to occur as the rings need to seat themselves.

i decided i want to move away from break in oil and go with a conventional in the same vein thus i just ordered:

3. 10W30 Valvoline VR1 Conventional Racing Oil (silver bottle) = 103,505 psi
zinc = 1472 ppm
phos = 1544 ppm
ZDDP = 1500 ppm

the protection is higher then break in oil and i'm sticking with conventional oil over synthetic. My engine leaks and i want to leave it clogged up a little the VR1 is high end stuff so i'm taking a shot.

the royal purple break in oil has a higer rating then the Lucas oil for flat tappet classic cars.

30. 10W30 Lucas Hot Rod & Classic Hi-Performance Oil, conventional = 62,538 psi
zinc = 2116 ppm
phos = 1855 ppm
ZDDP = 1900 ppm

you can see the lucas has even higher levels of zinc but its becoming proven that Zinc isn't everything in protection the shear forces and compression on oil seem to be more important for resisting wear.


Zinc additive has been shown recently to cause a drop in an oils performance because the additional zinc throws off the balance of other elements in the oil. same with Oil additives. prolong has been shown to increase the performance of some oils, same with extreme wear additives. but i'm looking to not use additives.
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#3
Thx, I am using the Valvoline VR1 10W-30 oil right now and was coming up on my first oil change and was considering using Royal Purple. I am trying to decide which oil I should use from here on out. Should I just stick with the Valvoline?

-john
(jbojo)
351C 4V cc heads, 10.5 : 1 CR, 290 Herbert cam, Flat top forged pistons, forged connecting rods, Atomic efi,
C6 with Gear Vendor overdrive, 3.89 Tru Trac, Hooker Super Comp with 2 1/2" Pypes Exhaust.        

Some Mod pictures can be seen at:

  Reply
#4
The consensus on Royal Purple in the oil elitist forums is that it's decent oil, just overpriced for the level of protection it provides. Not many people other than fist pounders will definitively tell you which oil is best to use in your particular engine because of the myriad of different applications and usages, not to mention the legal implications if they tell you wrong.

All I can tell you is that I do not recommend Rotella-T 15w-40 as I have personally seen wiped cam lobes on break-in. I'm steering away from conventional oils in the past few years even though I have thought for years that "oil is oil" as long as you change it often. Synthetic oils have much more stable cold properties which matter more on initial startup, as well as better high temperature properties if you would happen to lean on the engine or heaven forbid it would overheat on you. Seems that oil companies are not really spending the time on their conventional oil formulations, but rather putting the brunt of their testing and research into their synthetic brands. For the limited frequency that I drive my classic vehicles, I sometimes go a year or two between oil changes. Even with the maintenance habits associated with that duration, using synthetic oils have shown me no ill effects as to their prolonged stability over such a long period of time.

I have been running some of the new Pennzoil products because of their new technology, availability and competitive price. My old 66 F-100 responded well to the Pennzoil High mileage version to where I noticed an improvement in the way it ran. I use their Platimum synthetic version in my 2012 Mustang GT and my wife's 04 Freestar minivan. Both with good results.

I believe all of us on this site want to run the best products available in our vehicles, but ultimately I believe we need to have more information about what we are dumping into our engine so we can back up our claims. I suggest you take some time and review the data in this web blog. It is a substantial read but answers a lot of questions that discerning enthusiasts care about in regards to engine oil selection in our cars.

https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06...t-ranking/

The Valvoline VR-1 oils are near the top of the chart on that blog for wear protection. If you are happy with how it performs and it's available and in your price range, I suggest that you keep using it.

Mike
__________________________________
Black 1985 GT
Yellow 1973 Mustang Mach 1
Black 2012 5.0 GT, 6-speed, Brembo brakes, 3.73's
Wimbledon White 1966 F-100 Shortbed Styleside, 390ci, Tremec 3550, FiTech EFI
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#5
@jbojo i would stick with VR1 as long as you are using the silver bottle not red bottle.

the red bottle is for racing only as it has very low detergents and it breaks down fast, its suppose to be changed every race or so, so it is not recommend for street use.

I change my oil once a year usually in the spring and get a season out of the oil, which is usually under 3000 miles as it is not a daily driver.


high mileage oil usually has seal swell in it. that can be dangerous as it could cause a seal to fail inside the motor, i learned with any type of stop leak technology it leads to nothing but bad news.

even good oils go bad under certain heat conditions. if your motor is always running hot then you want to find an oil that stays stable over 260 degrees.
the VR1 is good oil even on the oil myths page it is rated #3
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#6
Thx, Yes I am using the silver bottle right now. Motor runs at 180* so heat is not a issue so I will stay with the VR1 oil. Thx for the help!!

-john
(jbojo)
351C 4V cc heads, 10.5 : 1 CR, 290 Herbert cam, Flat top forged pistons, forged connecting rods, Atomic efi,
C6 with Gear Vendor overdrive, 3.89 Tru Trac, Hooker Super Comp with 2 1/2" Pypes Exhaust.        

Some Mod pictures can be seen at:

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