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Thoughts on gas gauge fix
#1
Sorry if this has already been tackled but I'm trying to fix my tach and speedo and was reading thru past posts. It seems a lot of people replace the flex circuit board and CVR. It also seems that after replacing the CVR the gas gauge is a little inaccurate correct?!? I'm not sure if it could apply here too but when I was doing my caprice up I installed a Z28 dash cluster which did the same thing to my gas gauge. All we had to do was essentially take a 10K potentiometer inline with the line to the gauge. This way you could just dial the needle right to the full line rather than the 5 gallons or so you burn before it even touches the line. Thoughts? Again...sorry if its already been done.
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#2
Electronics are out of my comfort zone-but I will note that the original CVR's had a small screw and could be adjusted, just as you are proposing.

[Image: 1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png]

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!
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#3
Yes, you can do that. To eliminate a potential failure point you can replace the potentiometer with a resistor of the value the potentiometer is adjusted to. Potentiometers tend to corrode when not moved occasionally. You have to be careful when doing this, though, getting it to read full may make it read 1/4 or 1/2 full when it's empty.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#4
My gas gauge is reading low so I have been playing with the idea of putting a resistor in parallel to the float mechanism to make the correction.

EDIT: Got to think about this a little more. The sender should read 10 ohms when full and 73 ohms when empty. Going to try to run a few numbers through the parallel resistance formula to see if this will work.

Edit 2: Looks like the only way to correct this problem is to bend the float rod or adjusting the CVR if possible if it is not putting out the full 5 volts.

-john
(jbojo)
351C 4V cc heads, 10.5 : 1 CR, 290 Herbert cam, Flat top forged pistons, forged connecting rods, Atomic efi,
C6 with Gear Vendor overdrive, 3.89 Tru Trac, Hooker Super Comp with 2 1/2" Pypes Exhaust.        

Some Mod pictures can be seen at:

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#5
Seems like the 5 volts going to the temp and oil gauges would also be effected by a regulator adjustment.
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#6
71fast;249837 Wrote:Seems like the 5 volts going to the temp and oil gauges would also be effected by a regulator adjustment.

yeah, I would just ensure that there is the proper 5V there and not adjust if it is or adjust to get the 5V.

-john
(jbojo)
351C 4V cc heads, 10.5 : 1 CR, 290 Herbert cam, Flat top forged pistons, forged connecting rods, Atomic efi,
C6 with Gear Vendor overdrive, 3.89 Tru Trac, Hooker Super Comp with 2 1/2" Pypes Exhaust.        

Some Mod pictures can be seen at:

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