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the best oil
#11
I run Rotella T 10w40. Its a diesel oil but has all the good stuff in it.

Kevin

1971 Mach 1
408C Stroker
C4 w/3,000 stall
8.8" Rear w/3.73's
Disc brakes all way around.

[Image: 28ivsix.png]




                                                                                             
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#12
rpmcarter;233018 Wrote:the only part that 72 left out was that all OTHER comments derived from what their father or older person said because that is what "they" were told!

as the story goes a newly wed wife cooks a ham she cuts off both ends prior to cooking. Her newly wed husband ask "why"...that is the way my mother did it. So upon a family gathering he ask the mom the same question. "well that is how my mother did it" . later on at yet another family gathering he ask the wife's grandmother. "so tell me why you always cut the end off the ham prior to cooking it" she responds "because my pan was TOO SHORT"
LOL! Used to get a LOT of kids at the Auto Hobby Shop that would do various things along similar lines, usually for the same reason (their Dad always did it). Things like:
  • remove the oil cap before draining - to help it drain faster
  • start the car to circulate the new oil immediately after changing... then shut it off and proceed to do something else
  • use a particular brand of oil
  • use a particular weight of oil (10W30 in a newer car that's clearly marked 20W50 on the oil cap)
  • disconnect the battery (even for just an oil change)
  • remove the air cleaner (even though it's nowhere near the oil filler cap or dipstick
  • buy a complete set of brake pads, rotors, shoes, drums, etc., before even having done an inspection - and wind up taking it all back

None of those are particularly bad practice (except the oil weight thing), just unnecessary things that have become odd habits.

rpmcarter;233018 Wrote:Fact is if it doesn't have zinc...it may not be good for our cars.

As Dan mentioned, very true for factory set-ups or flat-tappet cams and valve-train. Roller cam systems however, not so much. Wink

Eric

[Image: mach1sig2.gif]
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#13
Oil is one of those things, like tooth paste and shaving cream, ask ten people, get ten different opinions. Best advise is to go with whichever you prefer, so log as it's quality brand name oil . By all means use an oil with ZDDP in it ( zinc ), like most good racing ,or truck oils will have.
I take it one step further, in that I not only run a racing oil with ZDDP, but I add a zinc additive with it as well with every oil change.
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#14
Everybody's singing the praises of zinc pretty loudly.

So, I hafta ask: aside from the necessities with flat-tappet set-ups, what are the benefits or requirements for other engine configurations (roller cams, etc.)?

Eric

[Image: mach1sig2.gif]
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#15
Valvoline VR1 in the old motors. I use it in both of my motors with flat tappet applications. O'Rielly stocks it which makes it a little easier to find over the Royal Purple. I have not expereinced but have heard of guys having problems with the ZDDP addative when running a fresh engine rebuild. It sounds like it takes times for the addative to combine with the base oil which can reduce the coverage on the cam and valves.

I know a couple of guys who also run Rotella in their gas engines and report no problems.

BKDunha
72 Mach 1 H-Code (Concourse driven restoration)
67 S-Code Factory GT with 4-Spd

68 Mercury Cyclone (Pro-Street project)
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#16
Another thing you may find with oil is that some contain additives that will cause the rubber seals to swell-changing from a conventional to a synthetic may lead to leaks for this reason as well.

Zinc in the oil on a car with a roller cam might provide a little additional protection to a distributor drive gear or a rocker arm, but it probably isn't beneficial enough to waste any time or money upon.

[Image: 1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png]

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!
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#17
I just want summarize a little of what I read here and ask if I am understanding correctly. Some maintenance is scheduled for this weekend. Bone stock 351c 2v with 69,000 miles, never been touched.

I will use an oil with a good zinc content, probably Castrol or similar.
Suggested weight I am still a little confused on? I used to run Castrol 20w50 in my 1963 Triumph engine (this was a high RMP 4 cyl built to SCCA race specs with dual side draft carbs). Thoughts?
Filter brand suggestion? I have heard bad things about Fram from some but have never personally had an issue. The local parts store does not stock the Motorcraft.'
Recommendation on Plugs anyone? I have used Bosch and Autolite in the past with no issues. (I will be doing this step along with installing a Pertronix III, new Flamethrower III coil and wires. Gap for this set up?

Thanks in advance for any help/suggestions.
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#18
most people go with 10W-30, if your engine is leaky then some people go thicker, 15W-40
people want to be safe as if you go too thick on the oil people have reported shearing the oil pump shaft from the distributor.

filter brand everyone will recommend something : i use a K&N gold filter HP-3001

plugs: OEM is fine, autolite 25s are the norm, 24s are cooler if your engine is running hot or your in the southern part of the country.

Gap: .035" keep it stock, even with a hotter coil or electronic ignition a stock gap is way to go.

wires: OEM stock is the way to go, stay away from all aftermarket ignition wires they are junk.

again everyone has there own way of doing and setting things up.
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