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testing kickdown rod w/o running engine
#1
Hey folks,

I'm about to put a 1" carb spacer between my 351C and Edelbrock 1406. I didn't think about the kickdown linkage though. Should I expect problems?

Is there a way to test if the kickdown is working without starting the car? Just to see if it has enough moving space.

Cheers,
Vincent.
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#2
I put a 1" spacer on my 351C that has a Shelby/Blue Thunder intake with no problems, just had to readjust the kickdown according to the manual. Make sure it doesn't bind or make contact with anything.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#3
What I meant to ask is: with the car in park or neutral and the engine off, can I push the rod in by hand? Do feel a click or something that tells you it "kicked down"?
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#4
You should be able to look down between the firewall and bellhousing at the transmission and see the linkage move. As noted, biggest issue is it should not bind with anything.
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#5
Vinnie;245040 Wrote:What I meant to ask is: with the car in park or neutral and the engine off, can I push the rod in by hand? Do feel a click or something that tells you it "kicked down"?

Yes, you can push it by hand. There is nothing to tell you it is kicked down.

Make sure you can push it to the end of travel without it contacting anything or binding. With the throttle lever held at wide-open and the kickdown rod held at the end of movement adjust the kickdown screw so there is a 0.040 to 0.080 inch gap between the end of the screw and the kickdown lever.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#6
you can also move the throttle linkage on the carb by hand with the air cleaner removed and view operation of the kick down at WOT make sure the kick down is fully activated on the transmission, you can hold WOT and then try to move the kick down rod to make sure it is fully engaged down on the transmission lever. move the kick down by hand make sure the spring return is working on the carb and that the arm is not hanging up on something. when i installed a 1" spacer i had to rebend the kick down rod a little to get the angles right so it didn't get hung up.
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#7
If you have someone to help you you can get under the car and watch the kickdown lever operate with the motor off as some one pushes the accelerator all the way to the floor (WOT). The lever should be all the way forward at idle and all the way back at WOT. As soon as you let off the throttle the lever should spring forward again.

-john
(jbojo)
351C 4V cc heads, 10.5 : 1 CR, 290 Herbert cam, Flat top forged pistons, forged connecting rods, Atomic efi,
C6 with Gear Vendor overdrive, 3.89 Tru Trac, Hooker Super Comp with 2 1/2" Pypes Exhaust.        

Some Mod pictures can be seen at:

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#8
Well, had a look today. I understand how it works now and what the screw is for. However, I also found out that it doesn't reach 1" higher so I can't hook it up like this.

I can't see/get under my car so maybe I've missed it but is there a way to adjust the length of the rod or do I need to bend it or add more length to it another way?
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#9
No way to adjust the overall length of the rod. You will need to add to the length by welding a small extension on and probably bend it to fit properly. The other option is to use a lokar kickdown cable which works pretty well. The advantage is that it will not bind like the rod can but it's not stock it you want to keep the car original.

The bottom cable is the kick down cable on my setup.


Attached Files Thumbnail(s)
   

-john
(jbojo)
351C 4V cc heads, 10.5 : 1 CR, 290 Herbert cam, Flat top forged pistons, forged connecting rods, Atomic efi,
C6 with Gear Vendor overdrive, 3.89 Tru Trac, Hooker Super Comp with 2 1/2" Pypes Exhaust.        

Some Mod pictures can be seen at:

  Reply
#10
Be careful when trying to re-bend the factory kick down rod. It's hollow and kinks very easily. Once you kink it, it's very difficult (almost impossible) to get it out and then it won't fit even a stock configuration anymore.

I ran into a similar situation and my solution was to bend up a new one using a length of 3/8" brake line. I flattened one end in a vice and drilled it for the carb end. Then began to bend the new line working my way down to the transmission. Once I had everything properly bent, I cut it to length, flattened the transmission end and drilled it. I'll be honest, I went thru several lengths of brake line during the process since some of the bends were wrong and after one or two like that, I tossed it and started over. Stock tubing is relatively inexpensive. It took quite a few hours since I was up in the engine compartment and down underneath constantly (side benefit is that was a good workout for flexibility). For some sections I used clothes hanger wire to work out the compound angles. I had the car on jack stands so I could get underneath it easily. You'll need a fairly good tubing bender. After awhile you get to know how to get the correct bend configuration, but it was kind of a learning curve. I had considered the Lokar cable, but wanted to keep a stock appearance. When I was finished I painted the tubing to prevent flash rust. Just throwing this out as a possible solution.
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