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Temperature sending unit
#1
New guy here,
I have. 71' Mach 1 351 2V, I guess that makes it a Windsor

With the engine cold I have a temp gauge that pegs all the way to the right after start up. With just the ignition turned on the needle moves into the operating temperature zone.

I,d like to test the temp. sending unit. Would someone please tell me where it is located on this motor?

Thanks
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#2
Your car came from the factory with the 351 Cleveland engine, with a 2-barrell carburetor, the 2V open chamber heads (smaller valves and ports), and the 2V intake and exhaust manifolds (smaller runners).

The temperature ending unit is located under the upper heater hose, below the upper radiator hose outlet, and points forward out of the block.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#3
There are two types of sending units so having the correct one is important. For a gauge you should see between 200 to 300 ohms at the sending unit when the engine is cold. At operating temp the resistance should be around 40 ohms. My guess is that you have a bad sending unit if this was operating ok previously or the sending unit is for a warning light it the problem has existed since you had the car.

-john
(jbojo)
351C 4V cc heads, 10.5 : 1 CR, 290 Herbert cam, Flat top forged pistons, forged connecting rods, Atomic efi,
C6 with Gear Vendor overdrive, 3.89 Tru Trac, Hooker Super Comp with 2 1/2" Pypes Exhaust.        

Some Mod pictures can be seen at:

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#4
Don C;197449 Wrote:Your car came from the factory with the 351 Cleveland engine, with a 2-barrell carburetor, the 2V open chamber heads (smaller valves and ports), and the 2V intake and exhaust manifolds (smaller runners).

The temperature ending unit is located under the upper heater hose, below the upper radiator hose outlet, and points forward out of the block.

Don,
thanks you for the education. I had believed that 2V were Windsor and 4V were clevelands. If I have time this weekend I will search for the sending unit

jbojo;197487 Wrote:There are two types of sending units so having the correct one is important. For a gauge you should see between 200 to 300 ohms at the sending unit when the engine is cold. At operating temp the resistance should be around 40 ohms. My guess is that you have a bad sending unit if this was operating ok previously or the sending unit is for a warning light it the problem has existed since you had the car.

jbojo
I purchased the car about six months ago. Being in the middle of a remodel project on the house, I haven't had much driving time. I understand that two different sending units are made. One for gauges, and one for warning lights. After I locate the unit I will perform an ohm reading test.
Thanks
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#5
It pegs when running, even when still cold, and the operation is different when engine is not running but key on. I think its something more like a bad engine ground. Check out the braded ground strap between the engine and firewall. Or use a jumper cable between engine and battery negative to check.
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#6
judge;197538 Wrote:It pegs when running, even when still cold, and the operation is different when engine is not running but key on. I think its something more like a bad engine ground. Check out the braded ground strap between the engine and firewall. Or use a jumper cable between engine and battery negative to check.

Judge,
thank you for the suggestion. I recall reading that a poor engine ground could also cause dash lights to be dim. That is also something I am experiencing. I'll look into the ground this weekend. Thanks.
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#7
Don C;197449 Wrote:Your car came from the factory with the 351 Cleveland engine, with a 2-barrell carburetor, the 2V open chamber heads (smaller valves and ports), and the 2V intake and exhaust manifolds (smaller runners).

The temperature ending unit is located under the upper heater hose, below the upper radiator hose outlet, and points forward out of the block.

Don,
I located the temp sending unit. The wire was not connected and was laying up on the manifold. I attached the wire, and took the car out for a twenty mile spin. While driving the temp gauge rested right on the lower mark of operating temperature. At an idle the needle climbed only slightly.

thanks for the help
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